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Cutting V into aluminum extrusion to bend to a 90 degree angle

bradyb1234

Plastic
Joined
Mar 13, 2018
Location
Abilene, Tx
Hi,

New here.

I am trying to come up with a solution to cutting almost through aluminum (7 different shapes) so I can bend it into a 90 degree angle. I know there are fancy double miter saws out there that do this but they are usually $10k+. I know that if I am able to accomplish what I'm wanting, I will save a huge cost in labor as these products will come together much faster, it'll be a cleaner look and more precise.

So I have 7 shapes, 3 kinds (valence extrusion that makes a lid - first photo, double angle extrusion - second photo, and U-channel trim). The other photos are some of what we make.

What I'm ideally wanting to do is make one cut of aluminum (and the shape this will make the most time and cost savings is the first one so if that's all I accomplish, that's fine for now) make a V cut through the aluminum to about 1/16" and the center of that cut be 5" from the edge (we'll flip it and cut the other side unless there's a better method). All the shapes should cut down to the same depth (the inside channels either fit 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" wood or panel) but they should all cut to the same depth. So if it is a bit or saw that cuts from the top, it shouldn't matter what shape or thickness, it needs to cut a little less than 1/16" from the bottom of the material.

Photos

Valence:

DSC00216 copy.jpg

Double Angle:

DSC00205 copy.jpg

U Channel trim:

This is just standard trim (realized there's a 5 image limit when creating this post).

Some of what we build:

Custom Built ATA Cases – Brady Cases
IMG_0345 - 2016-11-29 at 15-27-40 - 2016-11-29 at 15-27-40.jpg
IMG_2535.jpg

(Apparently I've reached my photo attachment limit - would love to add a few more, mostly for clarity sake)

So the valence is the main thing we want to cut almost through and bend the most and it can be a fixed placement if needed - 5" is our standard but if there is a way to have it move that'd be great. Especially for the U channel trim which is for a product that has a bunch of different sizes and makes a full frame around the product. But the photo of the valence above is what I'm wanting to accomplish except not cutting all the way through.

I bought out a company and they did this on their products. They used a sliding DeWalt DWS780 sliding compound miter saw and they would set it to cut a certain depth and figured out how to make it work to cut both sides (it only tilts 45 degrees to the left, not to the right - so they had to cut 1 x 45 and then flip it around and move it slightly to cut the other 45 and sliding it back and forth). I never figured out how they did it, I asked but never got a reply (the main guy who was in charge left the business to his wife and he skipped town and she didn't know that part of the process).

I have also bought a router and a large bit that I'm going to mount and have run back and forth, but I am worried about it cutting cleanly. I can build a CNC that runs this router and large bit and a clamping system to hold down the aluminum, but worried that it maybe a waste of time.

Router bit
IMG_2168.jpg

So we build ATA cases - the 5" cuts are from the corner to the latch (and we're CNC cutting those out so even more reason to have these cuts be more precise). On a case with 2 lids, having the 90 degree V cut will make our lid aluminum cuts go from 32 cuts, all having to be aligned, clamped, drilled and riveted and making sure there's no gap, everything is even and flush - down to 16 cuts - 8 of those just being straight cuts between the latches.

My question is - do you see a way to accomplish this fairly easily with some sort of jig using the sliding miter saw? Do you think having the router with the pictured bit (or another router solution) would work? Is there a machine I am wasting my time on that I have not discovered that can do this fairly cheaply? Any suggestions welcome!
 
The miter saw with a low-rake non-ferrous material blade will do it cleanly. Flipping the stock will be quicker, although it will get 'floppy' if long. Just play with some wood stock and you'll figure it out -- carpenters do it every day.

One $120 solution would be two saws, in-line on the bench, one tilted left and one right. Stock stays flat on a long bench, and operator(s) make the cuts as the stock is advanced down the line.

I suppose you could get custom cutters made that would just make the V in one slice. Won't be cheap, but will be fast.

I think my buddies at Cabbage Cases might do it with their ShopBot.

The problem with rotary cutters is that the tip RPM is essentially zero, so things might get gummy. If it's a contoured or tilted blade, cutting edge speed is high and chips fly.

A standard end mill held at 45 degrees will do it quickly, too. Cost-effective implementation is left as a proof for the reader.
 
If I am envisioning your question correctly, you intended to bend the stock at the vee?, vice two separate pieces at 45 degrees?
I have played a around with this on several projects over the years and it’s hard to get a crisp 90 without a jig or special brake, it might not matter if you plan to cover the corners with those heavy corner pieces.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
There was an article in "fine woodworking" where a company needed similar in chipboard, and took a heavy duty Dewalt Radial arm saw, and installed
a "V" cutter.

Hydraulic feed, and a stepper motor on the table to index the part
under the blade.
 
If this is production get a sawmotor with a V shaped cutter on it and a sliding table
Or use a wide straight cutter set at a 45dgr angle

Be aware you need a bit of a bevel on your cutter to cut a straight piece on the bottem of the V to get a nice 90dgr bend

Peter
 
I used to be in the same business, a long time ago. I tried the router bit, and that only made a mess. was able to by two RUVO double saws at auction, rebuilt into one. was a two arbor saw straight action, ie the arbors road on vertical shafts, belt driven by two motors, belts had ideler tensioners. Blades were 10 inch skip tooth carbide. Originally they were HSS with coolent, but that made a mess. an adjustable fence and air cylinder clamps allowed precise depth control. This worked very well. Before I got the RUVOs [for 20 bucks for the pair] I was going to do the v cutter on a radial arm saw. if you do , make sure you have positive motion control, ie a hydraulic feed or screw feed.
tip, when you are cutting the profiles with unsupported legs, slip in a scrap of wood to support it, otherwise it will tend to bend and grab.
also, even with carbide, a bit of mist will help with burrs, soapy water seemed to work as well as anything.
I had a large job with a small 3 x 11 inch valance, and made a stamping set up were all 4 notches were made in one hit. there was a bit of distortion but that was hidden after bending, worked very well and was of course very accurate and fast. You could also stamp your corner and valance profiles, one notch at a time, but would need a die for each profile, but I think it would be a good long term investment. I did this for one profile,
BTW, I originally used a shaper with a V tool to make the v notches,, that worked ok, but I had punch presses to do the work didn't have my own shaper.

I also punched the plywood for the latch pockets. 1/2 inch plywood will punch just fine! edge isn't beautiful but it was hidden in this application. Of course CNC routing of your panels is the best way these days and would of saved us much grief!
 
dado blade in a radial arm saw would be my preferance, google dibond, its a aluminum plastic aluminium laminate used in the sign industry, its commonly bent up into trays by cutting out exactly as your describing here, if you want a neat result the real secrets in the flat you leave at the tip of the V, you don't cut a complete 90 degrees out.
 








 
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