Dayton sander grinder questions
I recently acquired a Dayton 1" Sander Grinder (model 2Z646Z-1011R). (1x42" belt grinder) It did not come with an instruction manual, nor have I used one before. I replaced the power cord, pulleys and V belt. It is running now. However, I have some questions:
There is an extra idler wheel located beneath the top idler. It does not contact the grinding belt where it is located. Is the idler used for anything in this location, or is it only stored there. (There is an idler shaft with no idler just below the flat platen. I do not know its use.)
There are some extra posts projecting near the idler wheels. I have no idea what function they may have. Were there accessories for the unit which used these?
When I received the unit, it had a 3" drive pulley and a 1 1/2" driven pulley. They do not match, so I suspect one or both may not be original. Does anyone know the original pulley specs?
The flat platen has about a 1/8" gap from the belt at the top. Is this normal, or has the platen become bent?
Does anyone know how I might acquire a manual for this?
Any help would be most appreciated.
I think the term "rode hard put up wet" wasn't actually an equine reference........it applies to belt grinders.As such they live an awfully dirty,nasty and usually underappreciated life.Don't know the model you're refering.I personally wouldn't have a dang thing near much less stored on any of ours.Yours may have some kind of change wheels for diff. radius cuts on end?Once you figure it all out really think about sheet metal shrouding....ya,ya gotta be safe....but its biggest purpose is grit/dust mittigation.Also water makes a mighty fine "trap".IOWs,steal wifey's fav baking pan and zip tie under your grinder.........or not.BW
BW, thanks for the suggestions. The grinder came on a wooden stand with homemade wheels. In moderate weather, I can just roll it out onto the driveway and grind away.
I will look into dust control. It does not have any at present. A tray with water below might help; I will try it. Jury rigging some sheet metal and/or plastic pipe to hook up to a shop vac shouldn't be too complicated, either.
With the 1725RPM motor, 2 1/2" drive and driven pulleys, and a 4" belt wheel on the grinder, I calculate a speed of about 1525 Surface Feet per Minute. That's about half of what it had when I got it, and a third of the listed maximum. I hope that reduces the problem of drawing the temper out of blades, without slowing things too much.
After some online searching, I have found the answers to my questions. I had no success in locating a manual for the Dayton Sander Grinder. However, I did find an online manual and parts list for the Grizzly Combination Sander Model G1013, which is a very close cousin.
My unit is incomplete. Sometime in the past, the disc sander parts were lost. One of the idlers and the covers for the sanding belt disappeared. The unit functions well as a belt sander/grinder as is.
The dowels are actually threaded posts for the missing guards.
The idler wheels allow the belt to be removed and rethreaded inside an opening. This allows inside sanding or grinding to be done. The upper and lower idlers push the belt almost against itself in the middle. (The abrasive side of the belt rubs against the surface of the idlers. That probably explains why my one remaining inside idler is in such poor condition.)
The Grizzly unit has a switch on the front. I would guess the Dayton unit originally had something similar, but that's just a guess.
The 3" drive and 1 1/2" driven pulleys seem to be original. The narrow profile of the drive pulley allowed the sanding disc to fit onto the motor shaft.
My replacement pulleys, both 2 1/2", will slow the speed to approximately 1500 SFM. That's about half the original speed. I am hoping the slower speed will help control and reduce the chance of drawing the temper of the steel I sharpen. Time will tell; I can always return to the original pulleys and faster speed.
i hope this may be of assistance to some of the others looking for the same information.
Cool deal....now start researching belt materials.The factors involved in belt material is ultimately going to be a personal choice.Try not to keep too large an inventory.Stored in non-friendly environs they can come "undone" so to speak.So seeing an E-bay ad for 200 belts in your size may not be to hot an idea iffin they all delaminate.So,finding distributors who have a good variety of belt materials with a good turnover rate,"may" be more important than say,just a low price.
On one of our misfit grinders,I take wider belts and tear'm into section widths to suit.Punch them with utility knife and then rip.Its a way to utilize the outer parts of a widebelt that never seem to get wore out.
Years ago I got a "point N shoot" temp gun from Graingers.Its amazing how handy/convenient these little suckers are.......so if heating your parts are an issue,one of these may help on the lower end of temps.Google them and see what the range of temp is.No,this ain't gonna be a substitute for proper engineering temperature data.....It is however a very useful tool and might lead to an idea.BW
I purchased a few belts from Lee Valley. I'm really more of a woodworker than a metal worker, so this grinder will probably see minimal duty with me. Lee Valley sells 30 belts and the zircon belts in 40 to 120 grit. I already had a three pack of 80 grit purchased locally. I ordered 2 40 grit belts; and one each of the finer grits through 1200. That should cover the waterfront for me, and give me a spare in case the belt breaks in the middle of sharpening my lawn mower blade.
The one inch belt grinders seem to be not very common today. This one should be adequate for whatever I need.
Typo: Lee Valley sells 3M belts, not 30 belts. oops.