Drilling wood

J. DeBrular · Jul 17, 2007

I want to make a collet rack for my 2J collets and I will need to drill several 1 5/8 holes. I hate to use a hole saw becuase they wobble too much. A auger type or a paddle bit would work fine but where can I find one that size?

Jim S. · Jul 17, 2007

I recommend a spade bit, probably what you meant by paddle bit. They should be available at any good hardware store or home center. If you want to get fancy, you can grind a spade bit to the exact custom diameter you want to fit your collets. You could even get fancier and grind a matching taper on the bit so your collets are held by the taper.

With spade bits, you'll want to back up each hole with a sacrificial backer board to prevet splintering.

Jim

matt_isserstedt · Jul 17, 2007

Forstner's king in my book when it comes to solid wood....

Born2L8 · Jul 17, 2007

Matt's got it.

Clean, accurate, and you can drill an incomplete circle or at angles to the surface (with a drill press or mill).

Charlie.

Eric LaVelle · Jul 17, 2007

Having used 3 types of drill bits in the past 2 days, my vote goes for Forstners.

Eric

Chet Spencer · Jul 17, 2007

I'm with Matt,
best thing ever created for woodworking.
Make sure you get a modern type with a center point.

L Vanice · Jul 17, 2007

You can easily find 1-5/8 Forstner bits. They can be carbon steel or carbide tipped, Chinese or American, all prices.
eBay 1-5/8 Forstner

There are also 1-5/8 power auger bits available. eBay 1-5/8 power auger

Larry

Gary E · Jul 17, 2007

Or you could buy a length of PVC and cut it to length with a saw and glue pieces together...

John Madarasz · Jul 17, 2007

If it's only several holes, why can't you drill them close to size with whatever bit you have and use a simple, sharp, boring bar/head to finish to size with your machine tools?

This is the "practical" machinist site...yes?

johnoder · Jul 17, 2007

A slot across the bottom of a 3/4" round, piece of annealed file filed up to fit and hardened, a bolt thru to clamp. Helps one to learn about grinding cutting edges that cut - without drawing the temper

.

Such a tool can be altered over the years - smaller, differing point angles, etc.

Or as pointed out above, be a good American and just buy something

A coping saw will do this too, just not quite as pretty.

John

Grits · Jul 17, 2007

In my opinion Forstner bit is the best way to go by a long shot. You can find a 1 5/8" at any good woodworking supply. Grizzly should have a cheap Chink one if you are only going to use it once.

What kind of wood are you going to use?

Grits

Petersontools · Jul 18, 2007

While I prefer Jennings pattern augers, the largest I have is 1 1/2". While Jennings probably made larger augers, I've not witnessed one larger than 1 1/2", other than ships augers. So, a Forstner is probably the bit of choice, and the reason I say that is that it offers a 'stable' clean cut.

Grits asks a super question regarding the wood used. The oak families, work Forstners hard---feed slowly. If you are using standard cabinet grade plywood, Forstners dull pretty quickly, too--but if only a few holes, the Forstner should be OK, I'd think.

Now if you are using cocobolo or rosewood, you'll notice the Forstner getting harder to cut after three complete holes. Go 'real' slow...

You also have options to complete each hole: 1) have a backer piece of wood so you won't get tearout at the bottom of the Forstner cut; or 2) you can cut the hole nearly to depth, allowing the bit point to break through, but not the entire bit--then finish the hole from the opposite side allowing for a clean hole.

Joe

TomPracMac · Jul 18, 2007

I use and like Freud carbide-tipped Forstner bits. I've used them for years in the tailstock of my woodturning lathes drilling holes 7"~10" deep in end grain [walnut, cherry, hard maple, zebra, bubinga, morado, various rosewoods, etc.] I've never regretted investing the money in them.

Before going the Freud carbide route, my previous best solution was a home-made system using CPM 10V flat blades held in a slotted shank. The CPM 10V wore reasonably well, and this arrangement was extremely easy to re-sharpen.

Forrest Addy · Jul 18, 2007

Forstner bit. Clean accirate holes on location and to size.

But you may wish for a little clearance. An adjustable wood bit cut off and used in the drill press chuck will work almost as well. They take a fair amount of torque to drive and you need to clamp the material to a back-up board so the work doesn't splinter on the break-out.

TurningHead · Jul 18, 2007

Johnoder,

Please give a brief description, (PM me if you want), of how you would anneal and then harden a file. Assume I am ignorant, but not stupid (hopefully !)

Thanks...
John

surplusjohn · Jul 18, 2007

Forstners are the best but an alternative is a Irwin Step Bit, these are a very handy thing to have around the shop for wood, plastic, or metal. Makes a nice hole with out grabing and will countersink too! I use mine all the time, Great for sheet metal and plexiglas, makes a nice round hole without grabing. Not cheap tho, might be around 40 bucks for this size.

Chet Spencer · Jul 18, 2007

I made a R8 collet rack a few years back, out of scrap Carpathian Elm burl veneered ply. Looks and works great.

Jon Frary · Jul 18, 2007

For US made Forstner Bits, try www.convalco.com. They make the best Forstner Bits, They use hardened HSS and they are razor sharp, well worth the investment.

chuckey · Jul 18, 2007

I use a wood fly cutter, sort of trapaning bit. it has one flying cutting edge that is adjustable from 20 - 90mm Diam. Pros, cheap and wide range, easily sharpened. Cons, needs a pilot hole, needs to be used from both sides, so ragged join is inside the wood. Works best at very low speeds. One of the best tools I have ever bought!
Frank

chuckey · Jul 18, 2007

Just thought I used some 3/4" foam filled plastic planks. I think they are meant to be used for trimming Plastic clad houses. Bought about 40' of 9" planks for £10 ($20) from a scrap yard. It drills like a dream and has a wipe clean surface.
Frank

Drilling wood

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