Tree 2UVR, need picture of quill powerfeed drive pulley

Mine decided to disconnect itself from the shaft on which it lived previously. I have the upper and lower pulley sections, shaft key, and spring. I need to know what else to look for in the pile of chips...i imagine there is a shaft collar of sorts, but not sure if anything else flew off too.

Thanks.

I went and looked and the shaft collar is integral with the bottom half pulley. From what you described at least on mine, nothing is missing.

Guess I shoulda paid a bit more attention. Thanks. You're correct. I should also note that the shaft has a dent in it where the set screw on the integral shaft collar should seat. I apparently failed to notice this when I changed the belt 2 years ago..

Thanks again.

and changing that belt is not that easy either. I think when I need to change mine, I'll go with one of those Fenner multilength belts, so I don't have to cock the head.

daryl bane said:

and changing that belt is not that easy either. I think when I need to change mine, I'll go with one of those Fenner multilength belts, so I don't have to cock the head.

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Changing the belt is actually very easy. I removed the 3 nuts that hold the gearbox to the quill body casting and simply lifted it up about 1/2" to get the belt over the driven pulley. The drive pulley, evidently, comes off with a setscrew. Took me about 10 minutes to do the whole job. Probably shoulda took 11 minutes and put the drive pulley on correctly.

Maybe you're right, its only been about 15 years since I had to deal with that belt. I think I am thinking about of disturbing the quill to gearbox adjustment. Tree originally used eccentric roller drivers on the quill, and later found that the rollers would divot the hardened quill shaft. The later fix was solid replacement pads that would glide over the divots. On mine, I found it was a real touchy adjustment of the eccentrics to get the feel of the quill without play and smooth without binding, and if you disturbed the gearbox , it usually threw this adjustment out. In fact, I have found it helpful to put an indicator on a gage pin in a collet during this procedure, as you can blow out your spindle runout by misadjusting the eccentric pads, and it doesn't take much.