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Flame Spray Equipment

tractorkid

Plastic
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Location
Wisconsin
Hi Everybody
I am looking for some advice. One of my Hobbies is collecting and maintaining old farm equipment. Not really into restoration just keeping things in good working condition. I have had lots of shafts and such which have worn grooves in seal areas, seems like all that old stuff does. I have been doing some thinking about adding some spray equipment to the workshop, which I could use to rebuild the worn seal and bearing areas. Is there a product which would be feasable for the home shop? I really don't want to have to start doing custom work just to pay off the equipment though. Any ideas on products either used or new? Thanks everybody.
 
It would be tough to buy it new and not use it constantly to pay off.

Used might be more feasable. I have a Rototec unit in its original case with powders I will sell for $400. In fact if you hurry up and get it I might be able to knock some off that.
 
Mebfab is right, decent equipment is quite pricey. I have a Metco powder system that would be just the thing for that type of work, I've been seeing them on Ebay often and a reasonable prices. Used on Ebay is an option, but you'd have no technical support without paying for it.
 
If it is for seal diameters, I would use a speedy sleeve if at all possible before trying to metalize it.
 
What gbent said - speedy sleeve. It's a very thin stainless sleeve that fits over your worn shaft and provides a new seal surface. Available at bearing suppliers.
 
The cheapest system is a Metco wire rig. You can get a gun from Ebay for a couple hundred bucks, and the metallizing wire (metalloy) is fairly reasonable. The primer wire is outrageous... $600 for 10lbs. Then you have an expensive set of regulators and flowmeters. There is no source I know of but Metco.

This stuff makes an absolute mess, leaving black abrasive dust all over the lathe and everything else within five miles. The material sticks to the machine, so guards have to be made to protect the ways. You can go through a big bottle of oxygen in about six shafts.

In the end, it is probably cheaper to buy new shafts, although the flame spray rig is pretty cool. You could also send them to somebody set up to do this work and come out cheaper. PM me and I can check with the shop and see if we can do them for you.
 
To change the subject a little bit. I worked with a guy from Miller Welder, this was about 10 years ago. They had a system of arc spray weld that worked good for what you mentioned. The arc went from one wire to another in the head and partically melted the wires and the small platelets of metal were blasted on to a surface where they finished melting and then froze. It worked real well on outside diameters and on flat surfaces. It worked ok on inside diameters if the diameter was big enough. If the inside diameter was too small, the air turbulance caused the "weld" surface to be honey combed. The beauty of the beast was, the electrical current did not pass through the part you was building up.
Additionally, the wire used could be varied to match anything you was building up.
I don't know what ever happened to this system. Maybe some "older" Miller customers could help us out on this one.
Regards Walt...
 
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The cheapest system is a Metco wire rig. You can get a gun from Ebay for a couple hundred bucks, and the metallizing wire (metalloy) is fairly reasonable. The primer wire is outrageous... $600 for 10lbs. Then you have an expensive set of regulators and flowmeters. There is no source I know of but Metco.

I've got one of those guns, bought it for $40 IIRC. The plan was to use aluminium or zinc wire to coat steel plate - galvanising in place, if you like. I probably never will use it though as I've found another way of doing what I want. If you have any literature references on how to set one up & use it, I'd appreciate it though. I did do a google search but didn't find the sort of information I was looking for.

PDW
 
Yeah, there is almost NO information out there, besides from Metco themselves, same for nozzles, tips, and other parts. They are finicky little bastards. If the pressures and flows aren't right on, they are hard to light, had to keep lit, blow out when the wire advances, melt the nozzle, jam the wire, and so on and so forth.

If you don't have a dual (oxy/acetylene or oxy/propane) and air constant-flow regulators, you can forget it. Good starting point is about 35psi propane, 50lbs oxy and 70lbs air. Flows in the middle of the meters. Adjust for neutral flame using the flow meter, not the pressure reg. If you can't get any wire feed without blowing out the flame, jack the fuel flow and adjust again for neutral flame, turn air down as last resort. I have never used acetylene, so you are on your own there, but I imagine adjustment technique is similar, but probably 5-7psi so you don't blow yourself up.

Even with Metco's coaching, getting this rig set up was one of the most infuriating and frustrating things I have ever done. Once it was set, I left everything EXACTLY where it was and marked all points.... Then they discontinued the wire we had been using... After nearly two months, I have it sorted out again to where it is working right and the spray doesn't flake off or crack.

The cracking is about the most irritating thing in the world. You spray the shaft and it looks fine. You take off your goggles, hearing protectors, mask, earplugs (yup double barrier... it's THAT loud), get the QC holder in hand and maybe even in the toolpost when you hear a "TICK." Longitudinal crack in the spray buildup. Release a mighty blue streak, turn it back down, and try again.

I *THINK* it is due to the shaft being too cool, a draft cooling the work too fast, or ambient temps cooler than normal. It could also be the phase of the moon or the price of taters in China. I do not claim to have this even CLOSE to figured out yet. I just seem to get lucky more often the more I do it.
 








 
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