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Morse 4 to threaded arbor? Exists?

B

bikebuilder

Stainless
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Location
Montana
I've found Morse 2 to threaded (to run a hole saw in this case). Anyone know where to get a #4 to threaded?

I may just have to do the #4 to #2 adapter game and go from there.

bb
 
# 2 Morse should run any holesaw up to 6" no sweat, it's an axial compression cut, so #4 -#2 sleeve is the ideal way to go.

Take care. Sami.
 
I dunno. Limy. I've had bad luck running hole saws from #2 morse tapers. #2 Morse has a skinny shank to transmit 6" dia hole sawing torque with their eccentricloading and vibration.

Unless they're held in with a draw key or a draw bar the taper may disangage and bugger up the tang. If #2 Morse is what you have then that's what you have to use but take all the precautions.
 
I'm actually not going down either of those roads at this point. But, it is intersting, the only Morse arbors I found that have threaded ends are Morse# 2 across the board, no exceptions.

Strange.

bb
 
Bike,can't you get an import #4 that isn't hardened,hold the tang end outwards in a steady rest,and drill and thread it yourself?I don't think the tapers on large HSS drills were hardened,either.As many twisted tangs as I've seen,they must also be soft.
 
Hey gwilson. I started that thread b/f I had sorted out that I was dealing with #40 not Morse. I've also found out/been told that converting a #40 to a morse and then *possibly* having to sleeve it to #2 was not going to work/dumb. I'm keeping the #40 and ordered up a 3/4" end mill holder for the 3/4" hole saw arbors I have.

I gotta say though, that if I could source a #40 to threaded end, I would go that route. Less parts, and room for inaccuracy. But my couple hours on the internet, Buffalo site, ect, found no such beast.

bb
 
hey bb im not so much into the tooling as just trying to put the machine togather. anyway i just got through cleaning up a no.4 morse taper with a jacobs taper at the end no chuck. but could that possably be what you need i dont know. what do you think.by the way what kind of bikes are you working on and have you ever came across an a 10 bsa frame possably wrecked. i need a few parts to get mine in shape.havent herd anything from greg after the group buy. hes probably locked up in the basment squirling away on the new purchas. thanks
 
Thank you for the apology,bikebuilder.This sort of thing happens a lot,and it can be aggravating,you understand.Like the guy whose lathe is not doing right.Quite a few suggestions down the list,he mentions it's still on the pallet,being run there!Then,he gets p.o.'ed for someone getting on his case about it!! Etc,etc,etc...
 
Why not make one? I am always amazed at how leary folk are about making precision tapers.
It is no great trick if you get a good #4 center
chuck up a piece of soft steel and care fully drill a center in it, then set the Morse center point in it with a good dead center in the tailstock. Then with a good indicator, preferably a tenths, clock point to be an "elephants foot" or else very carefully centered, indicate the compound to run parallel to the taper. It is then only necessary to turn an new piece at this setting with the correct major and minor diameters and you have got a perfect Morse taper.

Charles.
 
I'd love to! You guys gotta understand, I'm new new new to all this. This mill is my first machine tool, and hopefully not my last. So, no lathe, no friends with lathes, ect. I also made contact with a respected manufacturer using the same mill for the same purpose, and got his set up which is a 40 taper endmill to hold a 3/4" hole saw arbor (made by another bicycle specific company,so nice and true/rigid).
To my thinking, the fewer arbors, sleeves, and whatever else in the mix, the better as far as acuuracy, performance, $, ect. So I thought if I could just screw the dang hole saw directly to the holder, It would be that much cleaner,easier. But to my surprise, I could only find MT#2 with threaded ends, which seems strange.

bb
 
Bear in mind you want to keep it short, too, or you will soon run out of y-travel on that Nichols. Another reason to reduce the # of adapters, etc.

Matt
 
Yeah, worked my way to that conclusion. Seems like more crap you add to the system, the greater chance of negatives. That's why I was kinda leary of the hole saw arbor in the 3/4 tool holder with a set screw. Seems like there would be an opportunity for the arbor and saw to end up off center. I guess the fit is tighter/better than I was giving it credit for. We shall see!

bb
 
I have about 10 40 taper toolholder blanks machined with the forty taper end and drawbar threads done. I was going to make these into a variety of toolholders for my Devlieg. If you would like one of them finished with a thread for a holesaw, let me know. These toolholders are machined out of ETD150, and are ready for machining the front. I turn these in a CNC lathe- not too hard to program and run the second side for whatever thread you might want. I left 20 thousanths on the taper for grind stock, for after heat treat grinding.

I guess we better get the description of HOLE SAW. When I think hole saw, I'm thinking of the round saws available from less than a 1/2 inch to over six inches, used for cutting round holes in wood, sheetrock, or maybe metal. YOu're not thinking of a SLITTING saw are you? Or a stagger tooth saw. A HOLE saw requires not only a thread, but two drive pins to engage the holes in the back of the hole saw. Since you were confused to the taper, we should carefully describe what you're trying to thread into.
 
bikebuilder, Although the size hole saw you're using may not even have the holes for pins, on the larger sized hole saws if you don't use the pins, they'll screw themselves on the shank so tight, you'll never get them off. You'll end up needing a drive shank for every size hole saw you use. But hey, then you'll have a "quick change" system going! I've screwed up a few times with my hole hog and a big hole saw and didn't get the pins in. BIG MISTAKE! Nothing more frustrating than trying to get one of these saws off, trying diligently to not break the thing.
 
Worse yet, with a large hole saw you can strip the threads out of the saw by not using the pins. After the first one I bought an arbor with pins and learned to tighten the lock nut securely so it didn't vibrate up.
 
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