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  1. #1
    Rick Rowlands's Avatar
    Rick Rowlands is offline Titanium
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    I have a DC mill motor that has a 2" shaft that tapers down to 1 11/16" over 3 5/16" length. At the end of that is 1 1/2" of 1 1/4 x 7 threads. These motors are used in steel mill service and overhead cranes, actually one end of this motor has a brake wheel attached.

    I need to find a source where I can purchase a hub that would fit this shaft. I have to make up a handwheel so I can manually turn the mechanism that this motor would turn. The mechanism rotates the vessel on a hot metal car that was recently acquired by our museum project.

    If I cannot locate a source for the hub is there anyone who could machine one for me?




  2. #2
    L Vanice is online now Diamond
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    Could you jam two hex nuts together on the 1 1/4-7 threads? Then you could use a 3/4 drive socket to turn the shaft. The socket could be run with a ratchet or with an impact wrench or drill motor for more speed.

    I love the paint job. It is much better than what I see on most of the machinery on eBay.

    Larry

  3. #3
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    Rick, I am wondering if the motor-shaft is double-ended and you are trying to attach the handwheel to this outboard end?

    If so, it might be easier at this point, to remove the motor entirely, replace it with a straight 2" shaft and some pillow block bearings (don't even have to match brands, just the sizes). I can't say what's on the other end, again, guessing, either a belt sheave or a gear, and adapt that to your straight shaft.

    I am assuming here that if you were to return to power someday you'd want an AC motor to do the job (??) That also might fit into your plans about the size bore you'd select for the sheave or gear...but at the same time an AC motor won't have the torque of a DC motor and might require some additional mechanical speed reduction/torque multiplication.

  4. #4
    Toms Wheels's Avatar
    Toms Wheels is offline Titanium
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    Rick, If you would get some better dimensions, I'd make it for you. The taper as listed comes out to 1.132 in/ft. It would not be hard to make and you can't be the price. PM me if interested.

  5. #5
    -TJ
    -TJ is offline Aluminum
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    Those pictures are great!!
    What's the story with what you guys were doing with the hot metal car(s)?

    -TJ

  6. #6
    Rick Rowlands's Avatar
    Rick Rowlands is offline Titanium
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    Tom,

    I sent you a PM. My neighbor has a motor manual and it gives a taper of 1.25" per foot.

    TJ the hot metal car was recently donated asn is to be moved soon up to Youngstown to be displayed with the Tod Engine. It hauled molten iron between the blast furnaces and steelmaking furnaces. Probably built in the 1930s, it is quite heavy being made out of thick plate.

    The vessel of the car has a refractory brick lining. I have to remove it to reduce the car's weight before I can have it hauled out. The handwhel that I am making will enable me to rotate the vessel making it easier to remove all the brick.

    We moved the car 75 feet yesterday with a chain hoist over about a 4 hour period.

  7. #7
    D.spencer's Avatar
    D.spencer is offline Hot Rolled
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    Rick, let me check my junk (AHEM- valuables) and see what I have. How big a pulley are you looking for? and does it matter if it is for chain or belt drive? ( you said you were going to make a handwheel out of it).I will get back to you.either way

  8. #8
    -TJ
    -TJ is offline Aluminum
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    I love that great old industrial decay - even better that someone's got the sense to save it from the scrapper! Looks like fun to me, too bad (for me) I'm nowhere near to lend a hand

    I went through all 75 pictures and one of 'em is now my desktop background. Hope you don't mind! I photoshop'd the busy background to black & white...scaled down version:


  9. #9
    MrChurchill109 is offline Hot Rolled
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    I'm going to show my ignorance here...8*)

    Rick, what voltage does this motor need to spin? If something reasonable what about connecting car batteries in series to spin it as needed - BTDT on military stuff needed 24 to 48 volts more than once for test purposes..car batteries from the scrappy are cheap.

    If it's the 600 volts that normally gets used on railroads then forget I opened my mouth...8*)

    Alan

  10. #10
    D.spencer's Avatar
    D.spencer is offline Hot Rolled
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    RICK- I checked my stuff and I have a 11 3/8 dia 3 belt pulley that accepts a taper bushing sleeve. I have the pulley and not the sleeve. Martin sprocket and gear co. could be contacted for the right sleeve mount. I tried to look it up in my martin book but could not find what was needed ( that does not mean it is not in there-I just can't find it) mainly because the sleeve will probally not fit to the minimum and maximum sizes you listed but will still work for you.I can take a picture of it for you and it is yours for shipping if'n ya want it.

  11. #11
    Rick Rowlands's Avatar
    Rick Rowlands is offline Titanium
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    Toms Wheels is going to mae up the tapered hub, and I found an old valve handwheel that I can weld the hub to so I guess I'm in business! Thankis everyone for your help.

    Alan, The motor is 250 VDC. If I had a source of 220VAC single phase nearby I could hook up a rectifier and a controller but alas no power. I don't even know if the motor is any good. Hand cranking will work for now.

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