Thread: The ellis 1600 band saw, My newest toy.

Well I was in the process of saving up for a brand new ellis 1600 bandsaw when I found a used one listed for sale not too far from me. So I was able to pick it up for $1300 which I think was fair. The saw seems to be all there and is in pretty decent shape. It also came with a bigger beefier vise and an old cylinder that leaks but may be good for parts. So what does everybody think is that a decent price? The cheapest I could find a new on was $2200 plus about $120 shipping, So I figure I saved around $1000.

Anybody have any tips on how to take care of it? I heard its a good idea to loosen the blade if you do not plan on using the saw for a while. Anybody else ever hear of that? Would getting some of that wax band saw blade lube be a good idea? Also I would like to rewire the saw to run on 220v. Anybody know how to do this? I thought the manual would show me but the only paperwork that came with the saw does not.

thanks for any comments

Pics coming soon

I paid just under $2,200 new (plus freight) so, yeah, good deal!

As for loosening the blade, that's standard bandsaw advice which I used to follow religiously for my Inca three-wheeler, but so far I haven't bothered doing so with the Ellis.

I have some Castrol wax lube, but haven't found any need to use it on the Ellis. The blade brush on mine is fairly anemic (to the point that I manually scrape chips off the blade tires when cleaning up after a job) and the wax would just magnify that problem.

Excellent mitering dry-cut for the money. I have the 1800 that is a '96 model that has never let me down. The saw has made me lots of $$$ and in all these years I have had to replace the output shaft of the gearbox one time. Original tires, bearings, etc. I run Lenox RX bands and that's it. The wire brush blade cleaner is simple... it works.

You'll love yours. I promise!

Best advice for you is read the Ellis manual for your saw. Available online if you don't have a copy. Adjusting the weight for the downfeed pressure is critical to obtaining a quality cut with the Ellis saws and is outlined in the manual...simple easy adjustment.

Originally Posted by bellinoracing

Well I was in the process of saving up for a brand new ellis 1600 bandsaw when I found a used one listed for sale not too far from me. So I was able to pick it up for $1300 which I think was fair.

We bought an Ellis 1600 about 25 years ago and it's still going strong--an excellent piece of equipment. I believe we paid around $2600 CDN back then--worth every penny. In all that time the only repairs we've had to make were to replace the output shaft of the gearbox and replace the bearings in the saw guides. The only complaint we had about the saw was the original motor (see below).

After all this time the friction style vise is pretty much worn out but that's about it. Oh, and every so often we'll fit a new piece of 3/8" alum. plate to the bed.

Anybody have any tips on how to take care of it? I heard its a good idea to loosen the blade if you do not plan on using the saw for a while. Anybody else ever hear of that? Would getting some of that wax band saw blade lube be a good idea? Also I would like to rewire the saw to run on 220v. Anybody know how to do this? I thought the manual would show me but the only paperwork that came with the saw does not.

Loosening the blade when the saw is not in use is theoretically a good idea but if you use the saw all the time having to tighten the blade up each time you use it will quickly become a real PIA! We have never loosened the blade on ours and I can't see that it has hurt the saw.

We tried the wax stick. It just gums things up and makes a mess. For cutting wider pieces of steel or anything aluminum we keep a squeeze bottle of lathe coolant by the saw and squirt it on as the cut progresses; really helps to clear chips from the kerf. Matching the blade tooth count to the material being cut makes a big difference in blade life but again, especially in a small job shop, it's a royal PIA to change blades every time we change materials. After a lot of trial and error we settled on a 1" x .035" x 5-8 vari-tooth and that's all we use now. With a little care and judicious use of lubricant it will cut everything from 1/2" x .065 tube to 10" x 2" slabs of aluminum.

One big thing--and this really applies to all bandsaws--is to make sure your workpiece is well clamped down. If the part you're cutting moves you're going to lose teeth on the blade and they don't last that long after that. The frictions style clamp which comes with the saw is pretty good but it never holds quite as tight as I like it to. Whenever something seems a little dodgy we'll throw on a second clamp for insurance. Takes a little more time but I'm sure we've saved way more in terms of extra blade life.

Definitely a good idea to go to 220V. I think ours came with a 3/4 horse 110V motor but we replaced it very early on with a 1 HP 220V unit and it was like we had a new saw. The original motor was, in my opinion, anyway, just too light for the job. The bigger motor made a big difference...[/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by TFPace

Excellent mitering dry-cut for the money. I have the 1800 that is a '96 model that has never let me down. The saw has made me lots of $$$ and in all these years I have had to replace the output shaft of the gearbox one time. Original tires, bearings, etc. I run Lenox RX bands and that's it. The wire brush blade cleaner is simple... it works.

You'll love yours. I promise!

Thanks, Yeah I was tempted a time or two to buy a china saw from enco but I decided I wanted a good quality miter head and I think thats what I got. So what does everybody think of the dry cutting? At first I thought it was just a feature that ellis cheaped out and didnt include but I also read at times dry cutting works just as good as wet cutting.
Does anybody run the air cooling system on theirs?

The current model Ellis 1600 is listed as coming standard with a 115/230v motor...so in all probability that is what you have. A new cord (or same cord and just use colored electrician's tape to denote the second hot leg WAS the original neutral wire...white in most every case.), plug and swapping the motor leads and you should be up and running. I would guess that under the access cover of the motor wiring box/receptacle you should find the instructions (clear, but minimal) to switch the wiring to 230v. If not, do a quick Google search for this particular motor from information on the motor plate (manufacturer, motor size and serial/model number). Most manufacturers are online and give the necessary information for their motors. If neither is available, come back with a photo as motor wiring is nearly universal on which leads to swap to which location.

Originally Posted by bellinoracing

Does anybody run the air cooling system on theirs?

No, but yes. Don't think of the optional air system so much as an air cooling system, but more ( a lot more) as a means to blow chips and swarf both out of the saw kerf and to clean the blade gullets prior to their entry into the cut. Try directing the air flow directly onto the blade prior to the workpiece as it is more important than keeping the kerf clear. Also, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea at all to refurbish the wire wheel that rubs against the blade after the cut and adjust it to a setting that allows it to spin freely, clean the blade and not jam intermittantly.

I've spouted off several times here about my Ellis 1800. For the money, you just can't get a better saw. I've added a few "attachments" to mine to make things more convenient, but it's a helluva saw. I would not use the wax on the blade. I do use cutting oil on the opposite side of the band from the rubber wheel when cutting aluminum. Yeah yeah, I know it's not a Hem or Do-All or blah blah. It's an inexpensive saw that goes and goes and goes. If your Heinrich type vice is worn out, do what I did. Buy their new style job. Fantastic!

ellis saw :: ellis8.jpg picture by rbehner - Photobucket

I have a Ellis 2000 that is a great saw as well, very well made, cuts great. Does anyone know what size wire wheel is used to clean the blade, mine is all worn out?

Thanks for posting that link Ray, those are pretty slick half moon clamps for doing short stock, I need to look through my heavy wall pipe selection and see what I have floating around to make myself a set.

Originally Posted by rbent

Thanks for posting that link Ray, those are pretty slick half moon clamps for doing short stock, I need to look through my heavy wall pipe selection and see what I have floating around to make myself a set.

Sure thing. I've made a pile of 'em for guys on this site. If you haven't got the material, I make them for nothing plus shipping. Why? 'Cause "Acme Thread" and I are in a race to the bottom!

Originally Posted by Ray Behner

I've spouted off several times here about my Ellis 1800. For the money, you just can't get a better saw. I've added a few "attachments" to mine to make things more convenient, but it's a helluva saw. I would not use the wax on the blade. I do use cutting oil on the opposite side of the band from the rubber wheel when cutting aluminum. Yeah yeah, I know it's not a Hem or Do-All or blah blah. It's an inexpensive saw that goes and goes and goes. If your Heinrich type vice is worn out, do what I did. Buy their new style job. Fantastic!

ellis saw :: ellis8.jpg picture by rbehner - Photobucket

I agree Ray nice job and a good idea. Let me know a price for a couple of your half moon clamps, it would be nice to have a couple around. And no I cant pay you just nothing plus shipping.

Also where does everybody buy their parts and accessories for their ellis saws? The best and cheapest place that I found was Irvan smith inc. I called Ellis today and think I got the 220v wiring figured out. Also they suggested checking with airgas or fastenal for parts which are both companies I hate dealing with so I am looking for a place to mail order a few things including a blade and the stand with the work stop.

thanks

Originally Posted by Ray Behner

. Why? 'Cause "Acme Thread" and I are in a race to the bottom!

Sorry to rain on your parade Ray, I'm already there - and it ain't all it's cracked up to be

Originally Posted by Limy Sami

Sorry to rain on your parade Ray, I'm already there - and it ain't all it's cracked up to be

I have had a 1800 model for 25 years It has never failed ever just keeps running I have the air system and I think it really helps , Keep the tension wheel tight and go to work . Great purchase

Well I have had my saw for a couple months now and only used it a couple times and for the most part I love it. I am still trying to get it all cleaned up and adjusted and all the worn parts replaced. But I do have one complaint with the saw. I am used to using a smaller Jet brand saw and something it has that my Ellis dont is an on/off flow valve on the hydraulic cylinder. With the ellis you have to turn the adjustable valve all the way in to keep the saw head from falling down. The problem is that you have to reset your cut speed in between every cut. Not a big deal but its still something that bugs me. My cylinder is leaking so I am going to rebuild it next week and I think I will find a on/off valve that will thread onto the speed adjusting valve and then just shorten the plastic tubing.

Anyone else ever notice this issue or have another fix? I cant imagine adding an on/off valve inline wont work but I guess we will find out.

Yup, I had a chicom job years ago with that valve assy. The valve worked, the saw sucked. Eh, I guess I'm just used to this one valve on the Ellis. But heck yeah, that will work.

If you add an Inline block valve be sure it's a heavy one. I'm not sure what pressures a saw will see, but i do know that cleaning up hydraulic fluid sucks!

It has been my practice to de-tension when the blade is not in use.
Somehow, it extends the blade life and prevents premature blade breakage.

Anybody added a DIY work stop to the saw and can share pictures? I'm going to make one for mine.