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Excello 602 verticle milling machine XLO Help needed

diblaja01

Plastic
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Location
Grand Prairie, Tx
Hello All

This is my first post. I'm retired after 30 years with Northrop Grumman mostly working in IT as a network engineer. This past 7 years I've been developing my machining hobby and now I'm trying to make little money to support it. I recently bought an Ex-cello (XLO), later version, model 602 that seems to run pretty well. I need some help with two issues. The first concerns the draw-bar. The spindle is an R8 but the mill is missing the draw-bar. I've tried a Bridgeport Series I 2J and it seems to be a bit short as I couldn't thread in a collet. I would greatly appreciate any 602 owners, or anyone for that matter, to please let me know what is the length of the draw-bar I need.

The second issue is I would like to replace the missing x-axis power feed device. All that is left is the upper half of the housing along with the axis screw bevel gear that is used to drive the screw. I intend to replace it with an import DC or servo 150 but I'm not sure if it will fit. The screw measured around .625" where the handle is secured and I think it's around 1.00" where the collar sits for the bevel gear to ride on. Anyway, this is all very new to me so any insight will be very helpful.

BTW -- I'm also just about finished cleaning and making ready for service a 1993 Bridgeport Series I 2J2. I'm adding a DRO Pro's glass 3 axis glass kit with the Z axis on the knee. This machine will be for sale as soon it is complete.
Thanks in advance,
diblaja
 
The first concerns the draw-bar. The spindle is an R8 but the mill is missing the draw-bar. I've tried a Bridgeport Series I 2J and it seems to be a bit short as I couldn't thread in a collet. I would greatly appreciate any 602 owners, or anyone for that matter, to please let me know what is the length of the draw-bar I need.

Texas didn't used to be like this. Nor the "Iron Works". And I hope you twig to it before I even finish writing it.

You need a length off what is right in front of you. Don't even need it measured - just a "mark" will do fine.

Push an R8 up into the spindle, block it there. Lightly.

Drop a rod or tube down from the top, hit the rear shoulder, not the threaded hole, on the arse-end of the R8.

Make a mark at the shoulder up-top on whatever it was you ran downhole..

Compare that to your BeePee drawbar.

That one already shows you what the threads for R8 at the bottom end have to be.

It gives at least a strong HINT if not also a direct fit as to what the top-end thrust face has to be.

And now... you have the difference you need to apply when making the counterpart for the XLO of the BeePee you have as an example.

It isn't really any more difficult if you did NOT have the Bee Pee drawbar. They have to fit what is there, blueprinted or never-was.

If that did NOT lead to a "Duoooh, but of COURSE!" moment?

Sell BOTH mills before you f***k them up. Delegate light-bulb changing to others. Eschew any personal involvement in wheelbarrow repair.
 
Texas didn't used to be like this. Nor the "Iron Works". And I hope you twig to it before I even finish writing it.

You need a length off what is right in front of you. Don't even need it measured - just a "mark" will do fine.

Push an R8 up into the spindle, block it there. Lightly.

Drop a rod or tube down from the top, hit the rear shoulder, not the threaded hole, on the arse-end of the R8.

Make a mark at the shoulder up-top on whatever it was you ran downhole..

Compare that to your BeePee drawbar.

That one already shows you what the threads for R8 at the bottom end have to be.

It gives at least a strong HINT if not also a direct fit as to what the top-end thrust face has to be.

And now... you have the difference you need to apply when making the counterpart for the XLO of the BeePee you have as an example.

It isn't really any more difficult if you did NOT have the Bee Pee drawbar. They have to fit what is there, blueprinted or never-was.

If that did NOT lead to a "Duoooh, but of COURSE!" moment?

Sell BOTH mills before you f***k them up. Delegate light-bulb changing to others. Eschew any personal involvement in wheelbarrow repair.

Sometimes Monarchist is a bit harsh.......Drawbar is about that simple though. Why put an absolutely average DRO on a machine to sell it? You won't increase the value of the mill by the cost of the DRO. Let the new owner decide what he wants.
 
Sometimes Monarchist is a bit harsh.......Drawbar is about that simple though.

Hey! I was on my best behaviour! Step-by-step instructions, even!

Temptation was to say the drawbar was like the perfect length of a pretty woman's legs.

How long should they be?

Long enough reach from her crotch to her ankles!

..and then I thought....nah.. he'll put the screw-threads for the R8 on the wrong end!

:)
 
I asked a simple question and you wrote your higher than almighty response. You must think you're smarter than anyone else. I didn't ask for your asinine answer. And besides you don't know me and you don't know my abilities so don't assume what is best about a rebuild or a resell of any equipment. I didn't realize there are A-holes on this forum.
 
If you have access to a lathe, making a drawbar is pretty easy. I'm lazy, so I make them in two pieces and pin them together. I use 1144 for the threaded section. It's pretty tough stuff.
 
"Sometimes Monarchist is a bit harsh.......Drawbar is about that simple though. Why put an absolutely average DRO on a machine to sell it? You won't increase the value of the mill by the cost of the DRO. Let the new owner decide what he wants."

Why would you defend a megalomaniac? Never mind I'm writing a person that see's no value in a machine with an added feature that adds precision and repeatability unmatched by manual methods. And BESIDES the new owner gets to decide what he/she wants. No one is forced to buy what they don't want unless its Obamacare.
 
"If you have access to a lathe, making a drawbar is pretty easy. I'm lazy, so I make them in two pieces and pin them together. I use 1144 for the threaded section. It's pretty tough stuff. "

Thank you for your sincere and contributory response. I do have a lathe and cutting a new draw-bar would be simple enough but I know there are several lengths available for purchase and for me its more cost effective to know which length to buy rather than spending my time on the lathe.
 
Whether you're "making" or "buying" the instructions above still apply. No magic involved. There are enough variations in
machines that I'd want a "measured" confirmation of length even if I were buying a numbered part off the shelf...
 
Hello All

This is my first post. I'm retired after 30 years with Northrop Grumman mostly working in IT as a network engineer. This past 7 years I've been developing my machining hobby and now I'm trying to make little money to support it. I recently bought an Ex-cello (XLO), later version, model 602 that seems to run pretty well. I need some help with two issues. The first concerns the draw-bar. The spindle is an R8 but the mill is missing the draw-bar. I've tried a Bridgeport Series I 2J and it seems to be a bit short as I couldn't thread in a collet. I would greatly appreciate any 602 owners, or anyone for that matter, to please let me know what is the length of the draw-bar I need.

The second issue is I would like to replace the missing x-axis power feed device. All that is left is the upper half of the housing along with the axis screw bevel gear that is used to drive the screw. I intend to replace it with an import DC or servo 150 but I'm not sure if it will fit. The screw measured around .625" where the handle is secured and I think it's around 1.00" where the collar sits for the bevel gear to ride on. Anyway, this is all very new to me so any insight will be very helpful.

BTW -- I'm also just about finished cleaning and making ready for service a 1993 Bridgeport Series I 2J2. I'm adding a DRO Pro's glass 3 axis glass kit with the Z axis on the knee. This machine will be for sale as soon it is complete.
Thanks in advance,
diblaja


You're oblivious enough to assume that even 602 owners know whether their machine is older or newer version, but publicly ask a question that defines your limited problem solving capability. Then you're offended because someone treated you like a dope.

If the shoe fits . . .

As best I can decipher some of Monachist's posts, he has some history working in IT. Maybe you touched a nerve there. He might be aggravated at the thought that someone, so limited, might have had an office nearby.

Go to hobby-machinist.com. There, it's against the rules to tell you like it is. Here, not so much.
 
Seems to me I mentioned the exact machine and model. Besides the machine is not here at my house but located in a warehouse where I do my work AND how can I measure that which I don't have. The entire reason I asked this question of the forum is in the hope that another Excello 602 user would be nice to take the time and reply to my simple question but all I've got was dribble so far.
 
Seems to me I mentioned the exact machine and model. Besides the machine is not here at my house but located in a warehouse where I do my work AND how can I measure that which I don't have. The entire reason I asked this question of the forum is in the hope that another Excello 602 user would be nice to take the time and reply to my simple question but all I've got was dribble so far.


Like I said, oblivious.

You're in a hole.

Stop digging.
 
Aren't you a nice one. I didn't attack first but pointed out the obvious if you know how to read. I haven't assumed anything about anyone nor would I be so presumptuous to say a thing about someone not known to me. However I won't hold back once you reveal who and what you are. I give respect to those that earn and give back to those who deserve likewise. Also I am not offended by what you say to me as I don't care because there are a lot of know-it-all a-holes around. Also you insult any 602 owners out there since you assume they don't know what they have. No wonder you're buddies with the other fellow. Also I do belong to HM.com - another fine association of like minded people. So please if you don't have anything constructive to add keep it yourself -- I'm not interested.
 
Aren't you a nice one. I didn't attack first but pointed out the obvious if you know how to read. I haven't assumed anything about anyone nor would I be so presumptuous to say a thing about someone not known to me. However I won't hold back once you reveal who and what you are. I give respect to those that earn and give back to those who deserve likewise. Also I am not offended by what you say to me as I don't care because there are a lot of know-it-all a-holes around. Also you insult any 602 owners out there since you assume they don't know what they have. No wonder you're buddies with the other fellow. Also I do belong to HM.com - another fine association of like minded people. So please if you don't have anything constructive to add keep it yourself -- I'm not interested.

Then don't reply.

Why would a HM member choose to post here, if not for the abuse? (rhetorical)
 
all I've got was dribble so far.

GIGO

Pumping in more dribble yet is at least getting your post-count up.

Gettin' old. Succession planning thing.

If it is going to take an entire regiment of assholes to replace me?

Least I can do it help identify candidates for the job!

:D
 

Not that one. This one:

XLO 62 Manual | store.lathes.co.uk

"includes spares as assembly drawings"

39 quid + post?

Last new one shipped was what? Over thirty years ago? Company long-gone?

I'd surely pay that if I had the mill.

Even if I still had to put a scratch mark on a stick to fab a drawbar. T'aint rocket insemination, that scratch mark, after all. Just "higher than almighty".. if you believe that part. Wouldn't know. I ain't even Catholic.

:)
 
Not that one. This one:

XLO 62 Manual | store.lathes.co.uk

"includes spares as assembly drawings"

39 quid + post?

Last new one shipped was what? Over thirty years ago? Company long-gone?

I'd surely pay that if I had the mill.

Even if I still had to put a scratch mark on a stick to fab a drawbar. T'aint rocket insemination, that scratch mark, after all. Just "higher than almighty".. if you believe that part. Wouldn't know. I ain't even Catholic.

:)

Hi Limy

You don't have to be Catholic or adherent of any religious tenet to be worthy of respect and value. A "scratch on a bar" is sufficiently valuable in this context as an honest attempt for helpfulness -- thanks. Also I appreciate the levity too.
I have copies of the original manuals, at least in part, one for the first series and then the other for the later version. Either one does not have a blueprint and only part numbers are called out. I hoped to get any Excello user to reply so I could simply buy one of an appropriate length but, if it has to be I can certainly make one to fit. The machine is quite nice. Very heavily built with a unique quill auto feed and slip clutch arrangement. All of the controls actually transition more smoothly than any of the BP's and clones I've encountered even some brand new Taiwanese models. So again thanks for you time.
 
Hi Limy

You don't have to be Catholic or adherent of any religious tenet to be worthy of respect and value. A "scratch on a bar" is sufficiently valuable in this context as an honest attempt for helpfulness -- thanks. Also I appreciate the levity too.
I have copies of the original manuals, at least in part, one for the first series and then the other for the later version. Either one does not have a blueprint and only part numbers are called out. I hoped to get any Excello user to reply so I could simply buy one of an appropriate length but, if it has to be I can certainly make one to fit. The machine is quite nice. Very heavily built with a unique quill auto feed and slip clutch arrangement. All of the controls actually transition more smoothly than any of the BP's and clones I've encountered even some brand new Taiwanese models. So again thanks for you time.

?? No one here means you any harm. If for no other reason than the lot of us being too lazy by half to work at it. But.. first line, first response said:

I hope you twig to it before I even finish writing it.
EXPECTING, in other words, that you DID HAVE the common sense to take the 'mark on a stick' step-by-step as actually the very sort of thing we ALL have to do with almost any vertical but a Wells-Index (stlll in production) or a BirdPort (widely, widely, widely used, plenty of parts, OEM and third-party.

XLO / Excello made a very nice mill. Respected, here.

They just didn't last long enough as a company, nor sell well enough for those mills to be anywhere near common. And even so, that effort ended entirely a long time ago.

That drawbar will have to be made, not purchased. If nothing else, you will HAVE it sooner.

It isn't even a big deal if you make it for a power-operated drawbar rig, adapted off the more common ones for BirdPorts.

Or ordered, new. Which can get you a store-bought drawbar.

Even so.. you may have to tell the maker, not ASK, how long you need it to be.

If it is in a remote storage location? BFD. Welcome to the club.

Can't do much with one if it fell out of the sky .. until you go there, anyway.

Why should YOUR frustration over that minor nuisance become the WORLD'S major problem?
 








 
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