A few Logan lathe questions with video

Hi guys,

I made a quick(and crappy) Youtube video because I thought it would be easier to explain my questions.

Summary
1. Oil level in headstock?
2. Machine and install roller bearing in carriage?
3. Machine and install needle bearing in lead screw support

Bonus questions
4. What type of oil in the headstock? 75-90wt gear oil?
5. Know anyone selling a 12" tailstock? I've checked everywhere.

3 Logan lathe questions - YouTube

1) your oil level is fine, the spindle bearings are sealed
2) they all do that, it has no consequence on turning or threading, if you want to get anal with it, bore it out and slap an oilite bronze bush in there.
3) they are all like that, again, add a bronze bush if you feel so inclined.

I use a 140 wt non-detergent gear oil, you can buy it in gallons at NAPA
Stay on top of E-bay for a tailstock, Logan gets over 1000.00 for a new one.

Perfect, thanks

Micah,

I think Shadon has given sound advice, Welcome to this world!

I would not run that heavy of an oil in the headstock, That is "old thinking" unless you have a worn out one and you are trying to quiet it down... 50 weight oil will work fine. Non detergent is the key. The reason for that is so it won't foam as much.... I cannot see another reason for non detergent oil... Other than putting on a dusty road.
The additive packages today work very well to stop the "foaming action". The only thing I can surmise Shadon is talking about is so that it does not take any seals out from the detergents in the oil.

After viewing your video I stand by all the advice given... I don't think it is anal to replace the bushing in the bearing block at the end of the lead screw. I would! And with the amount of wear in that handwheel... That must have gone back and forth a million times. I would start looking for another machine before I looked into the tailstock...
You are going to be chasing worn/obsolete parts for a while and I wouldn't want you to lose interest in machining. If you look at auctions and craigslist or Auctionzip... You may find a nicer machine for less than the price of the tailstock.

I have done the overhaul thing on just about everything I ever had on startup.... I have realized (thirty years too late) that it would have been more cost effective to just buy a new machine. Yet it adds to my knowledge and some self enjoyment


Good Luck!

Mick

Do not, I repeat, do not use automotive lubricants in machine tool. If you want to read the other posts that I have covering this, be my guest. It's been covered so many times, I'm tired of repeating. Just plain stupid!
JR

Consider finding a tail that you can make a base plate to adapt it to your bed.
A number on ebay. You could make the base plate of hard wood that could be used for a time and also be the template for one of metal.

What little I see the bed looks good and to me that is the key to investing time into it. With a good bed and spindle I would save it for the rest of the problems.

Steel on cast? for the age of the lathe wear is not so bad. You could ream out and make bronze bushings for those places. That is only a few hours work. You could raise the handle bore with a bronze bushing .005 or so to tighten up the clearance if you find that to be a good size.

looks like a nice lathe.
Buck

JRIowa said:

Do not, I repeat, do not use automotive lubricants in machine tool. If you want to read the other posts that I have covering this, be my guest. It's been covered so many times, I'm tired of repeating. Just plain stupid!
JR

Click to expand...

Wow! It doesn't take much to bring your anger up at the keyboard. It would come across better if you just quoted your information. NO one needs your diatribes!

I have valid reasons to help a person that asked for it.. Jackoff's like you hang back to add to the conversation AFTER the fact. You didn't run your big know it all mouth previously.

Come on expert tell me how the oil that they use in fuller transmissions will not work in a headstock of a lathe! (40 weight motor oil).

Quit trolling me and actually help someone.

BTW, even though NAPA is an acronym for National Auto Parts, The grade of 140 wt is a machine tool oil, my store is very well supplied and even has Velocite and Vactra equivalents.

Hi everyone, thanks for all the input. Shadon posted a great how to video of youtube covering the bushing instal. Logan 2555 apron bushing - YouTube+

The carriage hand wheel has a ton of play but the rest of the lathe is tight. Not sure why but I think its a worthy repair.

Thanks again for all the help.

MICK 1958 said:

Wow! It doesn't take much to bring your anger up at the keyboard. It would come across better if you just quoted your information. NO one needs your diatribes!

I have valid reasons to help a person that asked for it.. Jackoff's like you hang back to add to the conversation AFTER the fact. You didn't run your big know it all mouth previously.

Come on expert tell me how the oil that they use in fuller transmissions will not work in a headstock of a lathe! (40 weight motor oil).

Quit trolling me and actually help someone.

Click to expand...

Showing your temper is not going to impress anyone here. If you doubt JR's knowledge on the subject do a little searching on this forum. He probably knows more about lubes than anybody on this forum, and it is there for the reading as he stated.
James

MicahAdams said:

Hi everyone, thanks for all the input. Shadon posted a great how to video of youtube covering the bushing instal. Logan 2555 apron bushing - YouTube+

The carriage hand wheel has a ton of play but the rest of the lathe is tight. Not sure why but I think its a worthy repair.

Thanks again for all the help.

Click to expand...

Wow, very well done video.

James,

I have read what most of the forum contributors have said, I do not find JR's input very "significant".

Excuse me if I don't roll the red carpet out and bow at the waist when he enters the conversation. And if he has "you" fooled with his expertise does not give him the right to call anyone "stupid".

Even if he is right about the use of the oils!

This person (JR) does not know me or my experience, If this expert could use some "soft skills" this conversation would not be taking place. He would have had less effort in simply stating where he perceived me to be incorrect. Instead this person that you and a few look up to had to insult.

I can find more evidence that what I have given as advice is "not bad" than I can find that it is.

And I neglected to tell the OP that he should follow the manufacture's guidelines for the correct lubricant.

James, you also need to know that I am not trying to "impress anyone" including JR's cheerleaders (you). I don't have a temper until someone insults me.

You would be better served if you would send a note to your exalted one to not call anyone stupid in a forum where they were trying to help.

There seems to be a lot of "mental superiority complex's" in these pages of PM. I do not have to "hover like a predator waiting for someone to make a perceived mistake". I choose to help when I see that I can.

Mr Helpful could have just said "hey don't use that because............" HE was exhausted in all of his input in the past! Take some Geritol for the exhaustion and some Pepto Bismo for his lower mouth.

Mick,

I really don't care if you think that my input is significant. It really doesn't matter to me one way or another. What I do not like are people that get on the board and make unfounded recommendations for things that should not be used. The guys that say I've used this in my machine for 40 years without a problem. Most of them wouldn't know if they have a problem or not because they are hobbiests for the most part.

I looked at my post again and don't see where I called you stupid. Maybe you should be the one chilling out.
JR

JRIowa typed..."It's been covered so many times, I'm tired of repeating. Just plain stupid!" He was referring to typing the same information over and over again throughout the years because proper searches didn't bring up former information.He felt it was stupid to retype ONCE again his information...and suggested a search to find it.

I thought that a very good reply especially these days where people are busy with the holidays.Did you find his posts? Were they helpful? Did you follow through per his response? He didn't call ANYONE stupid nor did he infer it.I actually appreciated his response and tender my thanks to him.

JR,

I am far from a hobbyist! I have worn many hats!

I apologize if I misread your statement.

Have a good day!

Mick

Probably doesn't need repeating, but JR has been one of the most helpful and well informed contributors and advisers on this board. One of the things the forum owner insists upon is meaningful search titles, precisely so folks can easily search for threads where the same question has been answered (in the "what oil?" case, many times).

Happy holidays, all. Throw some seed to the birds, put a bit of the proper oil in your tools, and mostly enjoy the day.

I myself value JR's input when it comes to lubricants, he has guided me on several occasions. Have a great Christmas everyone!

MICK 1958 said:

James,

I have read what most of the forum contributors have said, I do not find JR's input very "significant".

Excuse me if I don't roll the red carpet out and bow at the waist when he enters the conversation. And if he has "you" fooled with his expertise does not give him the right to call anyone "stupid".

Even if he is right about the use of the oils!

This person (JR) does not know me or my experience, If this expert could use some "soft skills" this conversation would not be taking place. He would have had less effort in simply stating where he perceived me to be incorrect. Instead this person that you and a few look up to had to insult.

I can find more evidence that what I have given as advice is "not bad" than I can find that it is.

And I neglected to tell the OP that he should follow the manufacture's guidelines for the correct lubricant.

James, you also need to know that I am not trying to "impress anyone" including JR's cheerleaders (you). I don't have a temper until someone insults me.

You would be better served if you would send a note to your exalted one to not call anyone stupid in a forum where they were trying to help.

There seems to be a lot of "mental superiority complex's" in these pages of PM. I do not have to "hover like a predator waiting for someone to make a perceived mistake". I choose to help when I see that I can.

Mr Helpful could have just said "hey don't use that because............" HE was exhausted in all of his input in the past! Take some Geritol for the exhaustion and some Pepto Bismo for his lower mouth.

Click to expand...

Mick, JR does not need me or anyone else here to defend him. I was just trying to convey to you that you won't get anywhere here with attacks on the person or their qualification when the body of their posts over the yrs. proves otherwise. Sorry if I missed my mark, and hope you had a great holiday. I am one of those guys that it is just a hobby for, but I sure enjoy this great resource word wars just don't add anything
James

James,

Agreed, and again I apologize to JR and everyone else I may have offended. I could not see that he was speaking of the "message" .... I took it personally.

I have searched because it does not make sense to me that a transmission in a truck (80,000 lb) could handle the stresses (timken, roller, and even bushings) which have to be at least 100x more pressure than in a headstock could not work with the same motor oil.

I have located a fellow member who listed in great detail the idiosycracies of the oils mentioned.

I do not know how to copy his post and put it here but if anyone would be interested in seeing it.... SWELLS 30/April/09 post #29

Hope you have a great day as well

Mick

Apology accepted. I've got a little time, Dad's reading his morning papers.

The biggest problem with the automotive lubricants is their use of chlorinated esters for anti-wear additives. Work great in applications where all the bearings are steel alloy, but not so good if you have anything that's a copper alloy. Brass and bronze will pit with a lot of automotive fluids. Maybe not all, but why take the chance.

The second reason not to use automotive lubricants is their propensity to use detergents. The detergents keep any debris in suspension so it can be filtered out. No many machine tools that are spoken of here have lubrication filtration.

Its just not good practice to use or to recommend to somebody else the use of another lubricant other than what is specified by the manufacturer or is a direct cross to a specified lubricant. There have been all kinds of people come on and make the most idiotic (Mick, I didn't call you an idiot, this is a generalization) suggestions for lubricants. Most of them are hobbiests who for some reason will scrimp on oils for a machine that might cost several thousand $ or more to replace. My motto is that if you can't afford to use the correct lubricants for your machine tools, you need to find a less expensive hobby or business.

Now, there are some older machine tools that call for non-detergent motor oil. Since in most places, non-detergent oil is almost impossible to find, there are better options available. There are also quite a few machines that specify ATF (Warner & Swasey square heads come to mind). Make certain that the correct ATF is used. Not all the new stuff is backwards compatible.

I should have kept track of all of the recommendations that I've heard over the years. There have been a lot of them here.
JR