What's new
What's new

OT- Forklift Ram, how to remove and reseal? (pics)

Hanz

Cast Iron
Joined
Feb 2, 2003
Location
Casselberry, FL
We have removed the tilt cylinders on my Hyster 5K and resealed them, piece of cake... but my mast cylinder is POURING fluid out of the top now, and have no idea how to remove it or access it to reseal it. It is mounted a little different then most lifts that I see, and the cylinder is surrounded by the mast, framework, and 'stuff.' Any experienced advice on how to do this? Thanks in advance!
front.jpg

rear.jpg

top.jpg

base2.jpg

base.jpg
 
We have removed the tilt cylinders on my Hyster 5K and resealed them, piece of cake... but my mast cylinder is POURING fluid out of the top now, and have no idea how to remove it or access it to reseal it. It is mounted a little different then most lifts that I see, and the cylinder is surrounded by the mast, framework, and 'stuff.' Any experienced advice on how to do this? Thanks in advance!
front.jpg

rear.jpg

top.jpg

base2.jpg

base.jpg
 
We have removed the tilt cylinders on my Hyster 5K and resealed them, piece of cake... but my mast cylinder is POURING fluid out of the top now, and have no idea how to remove it or access it to reseal it. It is mounted a little different then most lifts that I see, and the cylinder is surrounded by the mast, framework, and 'stuff.' Any experienced advice on how to do this? Thanks in advance!
front.jpg

rear.jpg

top.jpg

base2.jpg

base.jpg
 
good morning.

the guy you need to talk to is Richard Rogers, who is a member here. he recently did one on a clark lift which i ended up with.

as i recall, he said the hard part was getting it out of the forklift. my memory of what else he said is hazy.

if i hear from him i will point him in your direction. Richard is a good guy.

peace.
billr.
 
good morning.

the guy you need to talk to is Richard Rogers, who is a member here. he recently did one on a clark lift which i ended up with.

as i recall, he said the hard part was getting it out of the forklift. my memory of what else he said is hazy.

if i hear from him i will point him in your direction. Richard is a good guy.

peace.
billr.
 
good morning.

the guy you need to talk to is Richard Rogers, who is a member here. he recently did one on a clark lift which i ended up with.

as i recall, he said the hard part was getting it out of the forklift. my memory of what else he said is hazy.

if i hear from him i will point him in your direction. Richard is a good guy.

peace.
billr.
 
I swapped one out on a 15,000 Clark. The rebuild shop wanted another $1000. to remove and install it. The hardest part was removing and installing the fittings. They were hard to get to.
Yours looks fairly straight forward. You need to raise the mast up high enough to get the cylinder out then "SECURELY" block the mast, take the cyl loose at the top, let the cylinder back down and remove. I can't stress securing the mast enough, chains, wood blocks, No rope or wire. This operation has a habit of dropping while you are in the middle of things.
Some cylinders use simple cups for seals. I did have to drill holes in some cups to fit bolt holes in some that I repaired but that was straight forward simple. I've learned to take a cylinder apart to see how it seals. Some can be repaired by me, others need a pro.
 
I swapped one out on a 15,000 Clark. The rebuild shop wanted another $1000. to remove and install it. The hardest part was removing and installing the fittings. They were hard to get to.
Yours looks fairly straight forward. You need to raise the mast up high enough to get the cylinder out then "SECURELY" block the mast, take the cyl loose at the top, let the cylinder back down and remove. I can't stress securing the mast enough, chains, wood blocks, No rope or wire. This operation has a habit of dropping while you are in the middle of things.
Some cylinders use simple cups for seals. I did have to drill holes in some cups to fit bolt holes in some that I repaired but that was straight forward simple. I've learned to take a cylinder apart to see how it seals. Some can be repaired by me, others need a pro.
 
I swapped one out on a 15,000 Clark. The rebuild shop wanted another $1000. to remove and install it. The hardest part was removing and installing the fittings. They were hard to get to.
Yours looks fairly straight forward. You need to raise the mast up high enough to get the cylinder out then "SECURELY" block the mast, take the cyl loose at the top, let the cylinder back down and remove. I can't stress securing the mast enough, chains, wood blocks, No rope or wire. This operation has a habit of dropping while you are in the middle of things.
Some cylinders use simple cups for seals. I did have to drill holes in some cups to fit bolt holes in some that I repaired but that was straight forward simple. I've learned to take a cylinder apart to see how it seals. Some can be repaired by me, others need a pro.
 
I thought that it would probably have to be raised and blocked. I see the bolt that holds the top of ram in place, waht about the bottom of the cylinder, does it just set in a 'cup' and not fastened?
 
I thought that it would probably have to be raised and blocked. I see the bolt that holds the top of ram in place, waht about the bottom of the cylinder, does it just set in a 'cup' and not fastened?
 
I thought that it would probably have to be raised and blocked. I see the bolt that holds the top of ram in place, waht about the bottom of the cylinder, does it just set in a 'cup' and not fastened?
 
I think the bottom of the cylinder has to "float" in a cup more or less. Otherwise if the mast bends, etc, the cylinder rod can get cocked and jammed, side-loaded, all of which are undesirable. Metlmunchr is another good source of info on this, he steered me to Hercules Bulldog for parts for a Clark, but I've not done the project yet.

All but the earliest model Hysters have all single-acting cylinders on them, as opposed to the Clarks which are telescoping. The Hyster design is much much more serviceable in my opinion, plus a single-acting cylinder has the advantage of not having part of the rod constantly exposed to dust, dirt, grit of the external environment.
 
I think the bottom of the cylinder has to "float" in a cup more or less. Otherwise if the mast bends, etc, the cylinder rod can get cocked and jammed, side-loaded, all of which are undesirable. Metlmunchr is another good source of info on this, he steered me to Hercules Bulldog for parts for a Clark, but I've not done the project yet.

All but the earliest model Hysters have all single-acting cylinders on them, as opposed to the Clarks which are telescoping. The Hyster design is much much more serviceable in my opinion, plus a single-acting cylinder has the advantage of not having part of the rod constantly exposed to dust, dirt, grit of the external environment.
 
I think the bottom of the cylinder has to "float" in a cup more or less. Otherwise if the mast bends, etc, the cylinder rod can get cocked and jammed, side-loaded, all of which are undesirable. Metlmunchr is another good source of info on this, he steered me to Hercules Bulldog for parts for a Clark, but I've not done the project yet.

All but the earliest model Hysters have all single-acting cylinders on them, as opposed to the Clarks which are telescoping. The Hyster design is much much more serviceable in my opinion, plus a single-acting cylinder has the advantage of not having part of the rod constantly exposed to dust, dirt, grit of the external environment.
 
I did one that just the top gland screwed itself loose and came out. All the seals were at the top of the cylinder. The assembly on top of the ram shaft just sat by gravity on a post out the top of the ram. We had to get the shaft out of the bore, then replace the seals. Screw the gland nut on. We were way overthinking it to start out. Use heavy blocking to secure the assembly up, out of the way.
 
I did one that just the top gland screwed itself loose and came out. All the seals were at the top of the cylinder. The assembly on top of the ram shaft just sat by gravity on a post out the top of the ram. We had to get the shaft out of the bore, then replace the seals. Screw the gland nut on. We were way overthinking it to start out. Use heavy blocking to secure the assembly up, out of the way.
 
I did one that just the top gland screwed itself loose and came out. All the seals were at the top of the cylinder. The assembly on top of the ram shaft just sat by gravity on a post out the top of the ram. We had to get the shaft out of the bore, then replace the seals. Screw the gland nut on. We were way overthinking it to start out. Use heavy blocking to secure the assembly up, out of the way.
 
Not certain of the makeup of that cylinder, but first I would try to clean it up a bit and then if you have a parts book try to identify which cylinder it is. Give your Hyster dealer a call with your mod. and Ser.# along with any stamped #'s on the mast to see if parts are available.Also check the rod diameter to have this info. Depending on the way it is packed, you might be able to lean the cylinder out enough to just replace the top packing if not using a rod cup, etc.Before starting, run the cylinder all the way out and check for any nicks or scratches you can catch your nail on and repair as needed. Lower the mast, remove the forks and start from there. As mentiond in other posts, be sure you have all rails, etc., properly blocked and clamped as it is very easy to get your fingers, toes shortened on these things. I would also get a low drain pan and a bag of floor dry and do it where a spill will cause the least harm.If you have to remove the cylinder, that is an all together different procedure. Good Luck and work safe.
 
Not certain of the makeup of that cylinder, but first I would try to clean it up a bit and then if you have a parts book try to identify which cylinder it is. Give your Hyster dealer a call with your mod. and Ser.# along with any stamped #'s on the mast to see if parts are available.Also check the rod diameter to have this info. Depending on the way it is packed, you might be able to lean the cylinder out enough to just replace the top packing if not using a rod cup, etc.Before starting, run the cylinder all the way out and check for any nicks or scratches you can catch your nail on and repair as needed. Lower the mast, remove the forks and start from there. As mentiond in other posts, be sure you have all rails, etc., properly blocked and clamped as it is very easy to get your fingers, toes shortened on these things. I would also get a low drain pan and a bag of floor dry and do it where a spill will cause the least harm.If you have to remove the cylinder, that is an all together different procedure. Good Luck and work safe.
 








 
Back
Top