Is this a good deal?

Twistedfab13 · Jul 31, 2017

Bridgeport 2J variable speed price check

I found a machine repair shop that has a 42" series 2J variable speed they just redid for $5000.

It does not have DRO or power feed but it does have the following.

1) chrome ways
2) ground table
3) all new bearings
4) one shot oiler which has been fully cleaned and filled
5) new screw kits
6) includes about 10 collets

The x and y have about 5 thou of backlash.

It looks and feels great. Just want to make sure the deal is good. I would think it is just for the chrome ways, ground table and new bearings.

Larry Dickman · Jul 31, 2017

just for something to chew on,

last auction I was at, 3 bp jheads, all with chrome ways, dro's and power feeds. Decent shape, well taken care of. They went for $2250 to $2750 ea.

Twistedfab13 · Jul 31, 2017

Understand but this machine is fully rebuild. I could buy one that has other options and trade off for more worn ways, bearings that need replacing, etc. I am trying to pondering whether to get this one or wait and have to rebuild myself.

DDoug · Jul 31, 2017

I would suggest you quickly edit your title, you have a short period of time to do so.

Cole2534 · Jul 31, 2017

Given equal funds- I'd take the more worn BP with a DRO over the tighter BP w/o DRO, then I'd spend the rest on a good tooling.

Why? Because the DRO is a money-maker and even the most sloppy of manual machines will make good parts with a good operator.

Twistedfab13 · Jul 31, 2017

Cole2534 said:
Given equal funds- I'd take the more worn BP with a DRO over the tighter BP w/o DRO, then I'd spend the rest on a good tooling.

Why? Because the DRO is a money-maker and even the most sloppy of manual machines will make good parts with a good operator.

Good point. This is the kind of info I was looking for. But is the current machine a ripoff or is that price in line with what one in that condition would cost.

Cole2534 · Jul 31, 2017

Twistedfab13 said:
Good point. This is the kind of info I was looking for. But is the current machine a ripoff or is that price in line with what one in that condition would cost.

Without analysis there's no way to tell just how well the rebuild was executed. Also, it doesn't say that the ways were altered, only that they are chrome, so who knows what all was done.

Twistedfab13 · Jul 31, 2017

The ways look new. No wear anywhere that I saw. I am going to take another look and see if they also have other machines. I appreciate the input.

Twistedfab13 · Jul 31, 2017

digger doug said:
I would suggest you quickly edit your title, you have a short period of time to do so.

Fixed. Sorry about that.

tdmidget · Jul 31, 2017

Twistedfab13 said:
Fixed. Sorry about that.

In before the lock. Read the posting guidelines!

DDoug · Jul 31, 2017

Twistedfab13 said:
Fixed. Sorry about that.

I guess it didn't take.

alonzo83 · Jul 31, 2017

Cole2534 said:
Without analysis there's no way to tell just how well the rebuild was executed. Also, it doesn't say that the ways were altered, only that they are chrome, so who knows what all was done.

This.

Exactly what was rebuilt? Did it have the variable belt replaced? Or did they go into open heart surgery and replace every bearing in the head and scrape every way???

Or did they hack up some means to get the slack out of the middle of the lead screw and pat themselves on the back.

Alonzo.

Best find a machine with a dro.

Twistedfab13 · Jul 31, 2017

alonzo83 said:
This.

Exactly what was rebuilt? Did it have the variable belt replaced? Or did they go into open heart surgery and replace every bearing in the head and scrape every way???

Or did they hack up some means to get the slack out of the middle of the lead screw and pat themselves on the back.

Alonzo.

Best find a machine with a dro.

The whole machine was taken apart. Ways scraped if needed. The head is totally rebuild will all new bearings, belts, etc. New screws. It was a rebuild not a paint and call it good.

I was planing on keeping the machine a long time so that is why I thought a rebuilt one would be better. I can always get the DRO If I bought the machine. That way I don't get someone old beat up machine/DRO/what ever else comes with it.

Forrest Addy · Jul 31, 2017

You looked at the machine and tried the dials and worked the levers and apparently found it OK. Now you got to make a purchase decision. I suggest this: got the money, buy the machine. If you don't quite have the money now but might later, defer the purchase. Bridgeports are like busses: if you miss one, another will come along later.

$5K for a good rebuild? I'd jump at it but I'd have to give it a run-off level survey and a cutting test. That takes 2 - 3 hours and a wheelbarrow of inspection equipment unless the seller will loan you a big calibrated square and a straight edge..

triumph406 · Aug 1, 2017

Cole2534 said:
Given equal funds- I'd take the more worn BP with a DRO over the tighter BP w/o DRO, then I'd spend the rest on a good tooling.

Why? Because the DRO is a money-maker and even the most sloppy of manual machines will make good parts with a good operator.

There's a light year in difference between a nice tight BP and a sloppy one. Sloppy BP's might have trouble with finishes, squareness repeatability etc. I've used both good and BP's and the difference is noticeable.

adama · Aug 1, 2017

Just bare in mind replacing every bearing in a Bridgeport really is a sub $500 task yeah first go it would take you a day or 2. Equally theres a really good chance they don't all need replacing. A oiler full of oil rather than empty is at most a sub $5 addition.

Find it really hard they re-scraped the ways and then had them re-chromed for a $5K Total priced rebuild.

Twistedfab13 · Aug 1, 2017

adama said:
Just bare in mind replacing every bearing in a Bridgeport really is a sub $500 task yeah first go it would take you a day or 2. Equally theres a really good chance they don't all need replacing. A oiler full of oil rather than empty is at most a sub $5 addition.

Find it really hard they re-scraped the ways and then had them re-chromed for a $5K Total priced rebuild.

Yah but a good oiler system that works is over $500. I never said the ways were scrapped. I said they where scraped if needed. The ways look new.

Twistedfab13 · Aug 1, 2017

Forrest Addy said:
You looked at the machine and tried the dials and worked the levers and apparently found it OK. Now you got to make a purchase decision. I suggest this: got the money, buy the machine. If you don't quite have the money now but might later, defer the purchase. Bridgeports are like busses: if you miss one, another will come along later.

$5K for a good rebuild? I'd jump at it but I'd have to give it a run-off level survey and a cutting test. That takes 2 - 3 hours and a wheelbarrow of inspection equipment unless the seller will loan you a big calibrated square and a straight edge..

What is a run-off level survey?

Forrest Addy · Aug 1, 2017

Twistedfab13 said:
What is a run-off level survey?

That's where every machine function is inspected,tested, and verified following the procedures in George Shlesinger's "Testing Machine Tools" and filling out a test card. Everything is checked from condition of the way surfaces, axis geometry, accuracy and motion of the lead screws, V-belt pulley wear, verification of one shot lube to every point, etc.

The object is not to find petty fault for beating the price down but to ensure no surprises pop-up later to ruin your work-week. There are lots of parts and pieces in a machine tool and they all have to work properly together for the machine to perform its function.

One test I've found particularly revealing is the racking test. Fine tune the gib adjustments then. attach indicators on each side of the knee to contact the table side at each end of the saddle, set a zero then forcibly rack the table by hand attempting to rotate it around the vertical axis (stand at the operators station, grasp the table ends, and pull on one end while pushing on the other.).Perform this test with the table full left, when centered, and full right. Do the same with the saddle full in, centered, and full out.

Combine this test with checking for axis binding and freedom of motion over full travel. You only have to place two indicators while performing other checks. The racking test adds only seconds to the time for the full suite.

The racking test demonstrates the free motion (yaw) of the table and saddle. It tells you whether the table and saddle are hour-glassed and the probable tracking errors to be expected in long cuts. A new machine could be expected to have less than 0.001" with the table and saddle in all positions. A good machine 0.002" etc to 0.030 for a loosey-goosey rebuild candidate. Careful gib adjustment is necessary if this test is to be objective.

Mike1974 · Aug 1, 2017

Forrest Addy said:
That's where every machine function is inspected,tested, and verified following the procedures in George Shlesinger's "Testing Machine Tools" and filling out a test card. Everything is checked from condition of the way surfaces, axis geometry, accuracy and motion of the lead screws, V-belt pulley wear, verification of one shot lube to every point, etc.

The object is not to find petty fault for beating the price down but to ensure no surprises pop-up later to ruin your work-week. There are lots of parts and pieces in a machine tool and they all have to work properly together for the machine to perform its function.

One test I've found particularly revealing is the racking test. Fine tune the gib adjustments then. attach indicators on each side of the knee to contact the table side at each end of the saddle, set a zero then forcibly rack the table by hand attempting to rotate it around the vertical axis (stand at the operators station, grasp the table ends, and pull on one end while pushing on the other.).Perform this test with the table full left, when centered, and full right. Do the same with the saddle full in, centered, and full out.

Combine this test with checking for axis binding and freedom of motion over full travel. You only have to place two indicators while performing other checks. The racking test adds only seconds to the time for the full suite.

The racking test demonstrates the free motion (yaw) of the table and saddle. It tells you whether the table and saddle are hour-glassed and the probable tracking errors to be expected in long cuts. A new machine could be expected to have less than 0.001" with the table and saddle in all positions. A good machine 0.002" etc to 0.030 for a loosey-goosey rebuild candidate. Careful gib adjustment is necessary if this test is to be objective.

I just don't think a BP will ever be "that" good. I have run alot of them over the years, and even had the pleasure of running a brand new one (actual BP, not a clone). They aren't (good/pricey) cnc level machines. Yep, you can do some cool sh*t with them tilting the head, swiveling the column, etc.

I'm not arguing with anything you are saying, just my opinion on what to expect from a BP (or clone), in general. It doesn't matter (again, my opinion) how 'good and tight' a BP is, it is limited by it's versatility, it's a trade-off....

Is this a good deal?

Plastic

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Stainless

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