Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    stannp368 is offline Hot Rolled
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA USA
    Posts
    617

    Default Grinding Non-magnetic Plates in a Surface Grinder

    This method of holding non-magnetic plates on a surface grinder is a precise way of grinding when the workpiece is too large or cumbersome to be held in a vise or cradled w/ steel plates. I used molten sulphur & mixed it w/ lard oil. The mastic was then applied in a bead all around the bottom of the workpiece & allowed to harden. Light cuts were then taken on the work surface with a 36-F or G silicon carbide wheel. It will produce a nice finish & also grind the work flat. Of course melt the sulphur outside unless you have a strong exhaust system. When finished grinding, use a sharp flat chisel to break up the bead & clean up your mag chuck.

  2. #2
    willbird is offline Banned
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    North(very) West(very) Ohio...near exit 13 on OH turnpike
    Posts
    3,714

    Default

    The old timers used paraffin wax before magnetic chucks were common, or at least I was told so.

    I have used double sided tape before.

    Bill

  3. #3
    bosleyjr's Avatar
    bosleyjr is online now Diamond
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    SE PA, Philly
    Posts
    4,377

    Default

    Put a ferrous sheet thinner than your final ground part, with some surface area to it, on the mag vise next to your part, as a backstop. Then use one of the techniques that experts have advised. This reduces the shear seen by whatever fastening method you use.

    Seems like paraffin might melt if you surface grind...

    Jim

  4. #4
    DaveE907 is offline Titanium
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Spanish Springs, NV
    Posts
    2,265

    Default

    I've used ferrous stops as Jim suggested above and held the parts to the surface of the chuck with hot glue from a common hot glue gun. Weight the parts down until the glue cools. This was using coolant so no problem getting the glue heated up during grinding. It peals off nicely when the grinding is finished.

    Another method that works well for appropriate parts is to bond them with cyanoacrylate glue to a suitable steel plate and mount that on the mag chuck. The bond can be broken by elevated temperature or a solvent.

  5. #5
    stephen thomas is offline Diamond
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    downhill from Twain\'s study outside Elmira, NY
    Posts
    7,793

    Default

    I block parts in front, as has been mentioned. Then just use regular, what look like "combs" for non-magnetic materials. Paper or crayon mark shims if necessary under the work.

    In cases where the ~1/8" thickness of the "combs" is too much, spring steel saw stock (about .032 x a "couple" inches wide) can be used in front & back for blocking, and sprung agains the sides to get the same effect as the combs.

    Have heard of using melted shellac, but never tried it. Would seem difficult to get to flow out on a cold chuck, unless maybe ironed on, or a good heat gun.....Then what, let the chuck cool for a while?

    As far as caulking the sides, I might try a hot melt glue gun before stinky sulpher. Then again, didn't they used to light sulpher & smoke up the room for pulmonary ailments, so maybe it would do a person good from time to time.

    smt

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Richmond, Michigan
    Posts
    34

    Default

    super glue

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •