What's new
What's new

Help identifying a hydraulic cylinder

MPYOUNG33

Plastic
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Location
Australia
There is no manufacturer name on the cylinder. The only number I could find on the cylinder is TC25X54AIT L 07.

Here are the measurements to the best of my knowledge.


Retracted Length: 66.25"
Extended: 120"
Cylinder: 2.879"
Stroke: ?
Bore: ?
Rod: 1.245"
Clevis type 1" pin

I need help identifying the manufacturer or a manufacturer that makes a similar hydraulic cylinder. Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    96.2 KB · Views: 859
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    91.7 KB · Views: 752
Usually any shop that builds cylinders will make one for you, They buy the internally ground tube and weld the caps on. Twenty years ago, someone stole a cylinder off my Ford front end
loader, Ford wanted $700.00 for a new one, with a three or four month wait. I had a shop in Eastlake Oh. make me 2 of them for the same price. They explained to me that putting a new cylinder parallel to a used one would make the bucket come up crooked because of slip in the old cylinder. What they did, was shorten some existing cylinders they had in stock. They fit and worked perfectly. AND I had them in about 2 weeks. DAVE [ACME THREAD]
 
Couple of quick questions, I see an OEM on the machine, do they have a bill of material for the cylinder? (in other words original spec).

Next, its not at all out of the question to make another custom cylinder almost identical. I'm familiar with Parker Hydraulics, there are obviously a number of questions you have to answer to spec out another one. Things down to the port threads and types, the clocking of the ports, the seal materials, special extra rod scraper/wipers, the rod thread and style of end cap or a center trunnion are needed in addition to the basic dimensions you have there. Its been a couple of years but I think the "AN...." cylinders are tie rod cylinders which are made as such. Typically there are a discrete set of bore diameters that you select from, but the stroke can theoretically be spec'd down to .001" as that's how many decimal placeholders there are in the end part number. I think I'd start by contacting a Parker Store, around here, they are connected to a larger company specializing in hydraulics which would have sort of a sales/engineering function to help duplicate your cylinder.
 
Anytime I buy something from the manufacturer of the saw they charge me 10x's more than it cost if I sourced it on my own. They will not give me info on the cylinder because they want me to buy it from them.

I think it's a custom made cylinder because I can't find a stock cylinder anywhere that has an extended length of 120".

Dave do you know the name of the shop in Ohio? I will also check with Parker

Thanks!
 
Yes the extended minus retracted will give the stroke. If I was to fathom a guess looking at the part number it is 54" stroke 2.5" bore. They usually use the measurement in the part number.
 
What's wrong with it? You can make most any part except the tube and rod (which can both be purchased fairly cheap) in a lathe in a matter of a couple of hours. Probably talking $200 in materials if you have to make everything (tube, rod, piston, gland). Packing is probably $75, max.
 
The cylinder was making a horrible scratching noise on the downward stroke. There was a little hydraulic fluid leaking out of the top of the cap. After further inspection there was a loose set screw in the cap and tightening it seems to have solved the problem for now.

The saw is the work horse of my business and I can't afford to be down for longer than a day. The cylinder is the only backup part that I don't have.
 
Last edited:
Sound like a typical customer

to cheep to buy the proper part

Want it fixed immediately

Dont want to tear it down (want you to clone a running part with minimal info).

All done on the cheep.

And want it done on a holiday Sunday.

And are baffled when we charge you out the nose.
 
Haha that's not the case at all. I'm trying to buy the proper part and that's why I'm here. I'm being proactive and addressing the issue before I need it fixed immediately. I can't tear it down because this is the one and only saw I have.

I'll post the saw manufacturers cylinder quote tomorrow and you tell me if I'm wrong for shopping around. The parts I've purchased from them in the past have been marked up 500% over retail.

Happy Easter and thank you to everybody that provided useful information.
 
That will not be an "off the shelf" cylinder. That was custom built for the OEM. Anything you get will be another custom.

Also, you are missing some important details
What's the bottom connection?
What's the working pressure?
It appears to be a double acting. Is it?

I have to agree with Heavy on some of his statements. Do you think that they should stock the parts for free? We have a company manage our parts business. We stock the parts at their facility and they handle the logistics. They get a mark-up and so do we.

If your saw is that critical to your operation, you should have a second machine!
BTW, you can send a drawing to Prince Hydraulics and see what they want for a replacement.
JR
 
I figured it was a custom made cylinder but wasn't sure which is part of the reason why I started this thread. I know I am missing some details. 3/8" ports, 900 psi working pressure, and double acting. If I had the space and money to buy another saw I would but I guess for now I'll stock every backup part I can get.

I don't expect anybody to stock a part for free and I understand everybody needs to make a profit but I don't want to pay $5000 for a $1000 part.

Thanks for the reply.
 
I've got an old Bobcat that followed me home last year. The tilt cylinder is a special. One about the same size from Prince is about $300. You can find them for $1K on the net. Buy from Bobcat and it's $1,500.

That's a low working pressure, so that's not a problem. Usually, on a smaller cylinder like that, about the longest stroke you'll see as a catalog item is 36". Your's is almost double that. The small bore also makes it a "special". You could probably get a 3" X 72" cylinder for less than $500. I'm betting that a quote for your's will come in at about $1K

I know several cylinder makers in the midwest. Most of them make their money on OEM work. Yes, they make special's, but they make thousands of them.
JR
 
If you go the custom route, you might want to have the shop that makes it build you an entire spare, as well as repairing the one you have (assuming tightening the gland setscrew doesn't fix it).

If that setscrew came loose, you probably have a threaded gland and it has loosened a little. Going to sound crude, but loosen the setscrew again and Put a BIG pipe wrench on the gland to make sure it is TIGHT, then lock the setscrew down again. I just had to weld up and re-thread a gland and oversize the threads in a tube this week because a cylinder was run with the gland loose until it blew the gland out of the tube, taking the threads with it.
 
I've got an old Bobcat that followed me home last year. The tilt cylinder is a special. One about the same size from Prince is about $300. You can find them for $1K on the net. Buy from Bobcat and it's $1,500.

That's a low working pressure, so that's not a problem. Usually, on a smaller cylinder like that, about the longest stroke you'll see as a catalog item is 36". Your's is almost double that. The small bore also makes it a "special". You could probably get a 3" X 72" cylinder for less than $500. I'm betting that a quote for your's will come in at about $1K

I know several cylinder makers in the midwest. Most of them make their money on OEM work. Yes, they make special's, but they make thousands of them.
JR

I'm with Prince. We do a lot of specials but like anybody else it's going to cost a lot if it's onesey-twosies. As for the Bobcat stuff, it is very possible that some of our off-the-shelf stuff would work as a replacement, but I've been inside the Melroe stuff and they make a nice cylinder for their equipment. Good seals and spin-welded end fittings. Like us, they use ductile iron pistons and glands. Very similar to Kubota stuff and they sell to Mercury Marine too. Any trim cylinder on a Mercury outboard is a Melroe cylinder.

To the OP - I can get you hooked up with a quote, but you're going to need more info. PM me if you want to do bidness and maybe we can help. Looking at the cylinder in the pics and the video, it looks like a lot of stroke for a Ø2.50 bore cylinder with an Ø1.25 rod. That's what you have there; your cylinder walls are .19 thick. It appears that the load on the cylinder in extend is minimal; if you were loading it up very much that rod would buckle.
 
I'm trying to figure out the bore size. Do I have to dismantle the cylinder to find the diameter of the piston or is there a rule of thumb that applies according to the outside diameter of the tube?
 
You might want to check your local hydraulic repair shops on this. I'm not in a large city and I know of at least three shops within 30 miles that could build a custom cylinder like that. You could probably set it up with them where you could take the cylinder off and let them spec it out for you and then take it back and put it back on the machine while they're making you a new one. We have had one of the local shops around here make anything from small ones such as yours to much much larger ones at the mill where I work. It might be worth your time to check locally.

Jeff
 








 
Back
Top