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Homemade toe jack

SBAER

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Location
Kitchener, on canada
I need to move a 2 ton mill at a location with no forklift. Having done the routine of prybar and shimming to get the machine high enough to get on the pallet jack one too many times so I decided too invest the effort into building myself this toe jack to lift 2000 or 3000lbs.

I did a google search of homemade toejacks before I started but I wasn't too keen on what I saw.

Here is what I came up with.

Google Docs
Google Docs
Google Docs
Google Docs
Google Docs

I'm not a great welder so I will still be stacking shims beside the jack as a safety precaution.
 
Nice job, functional and will do what it says on the tin.

As for the welding;- It's only MHO, but if that won't take 3000lbs you're a real crap welder of the first order;)

Tip, plenty of grease on the slide, be surpised how they can jam up.
 
Sbaer,

There was a link on here a week or 2 ago about moving a machine . They had some really nice homemade toejacks on there, too. ( I'm not knocking your toejacks. They look good and I will probably make some myself someday)

There are some other interesting points about moving machinery in that thread, also.

Here is the link:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/how-would-you-move-machine-206555/


Be careful,
JAckal:cheers:
 
I wanted one that didn't but any moment load on the crappy hydraulic jack ram. It took an hour and a half to design it and about 4 hours to build it (the milling machine was cutting the gibs while I did some of the fab work). I used material I had on hand.
 
nstead of stacking shims, make a few hardwood wedges with low angles, just push them in as the machine is raised. a low angle of 15 degrees is ideal. When I did allot of rigging I had a whole bin of hardwood blocks and wedges of various sizes that I used constantly.
 
Here is a very quick and dirty one for a 25 ton ram that had no trouble picking up side of barn while setting up to replace sills.

John Oder
 

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Mr. Oder,

I'll agree with the quick and dirty and suitable for what it does. But SBAER's jack really does prevent moment load from being placed on the ram of the jack while still keeping the jack stable. Quickest way to ruin a hydraulic jack of that type is place any kind of load which moves the ram any direction other than parallel to the cylinder. SBAER you have a dynamite hydraulic jack.

btw not trying to pick a fight, just saying the jack in above post really has some serious flaws.
 
. Quickest way to ruin a hydraulic jack of that type is place any kind of load which moves the ram any direction other than parallel to the cylinder. SBAER you have a dynamite hydraulic jack.
Yep, even those cheap "do it all" jack kits have a toe attachment...which work great...for awhile...and then due to the side forces on the ram the jack starts leaking like crazy and that's all she wrote, as the kit is so cheap you can't really justify the time to fix it.

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00ZMAtRCfzaYop/4-10-Ton-Air-Hydraulic-Jack-002-.jpg

Having said that, I suppose if Oder's creation dragged the back of the toe attachment body against jack body it would at least be better than using a toe attachment on a jack kit ram...where the toe is just "hanging out there" with all lateral support on the ram and seals, a recipe for leakage.
 
I'm looking around for ideas for Toe Jacks. I see the images for this thread are gone, so does anyone have a copy they could post?

Thanks, Steve
 








 
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