How do I lift this bandsaw off the pallet?

nc5a · Feb 11, 2017

How would you guys lift this 24" DoAll bandsaw off the pallet? There are no lifting eyes and the holes in the base don't have a clear shot vertically so a lifting sling won't work. It is very heavy, a monster of a bandsaw IMO.

I've contacted DoAll several times but they are very poor at getting back to customers with old equipment. I'm hoping someone here might have a rigging diagram for this. Thanks in advance.

Ron

sfriedberg · Feb 11, 2017

I'd remove the top wheel door (so it doesn't get messed up), then
put a nylon choker sling around the column just below the top wheel
housing. That's assuming the top wheel housing is stout and either
integrally cast or welded to the column. I'd bring the end of the
choker up on the side of the column away from the welder.

If it looked like the choker was going to tear up/off the top wheel
housing, I'd link again.

tnmgcarbide · Feb 11, 2017

i've always lifted mine by placing the forks close together , lifting up from under the arm ...with a plank of
plywood in between. it was surprisingly balanced - and i never had any issues with moving my saw ( 4 times in
17 years)

i think a sling will pinch the door and possibly bend and distort things . i always tape the door shut first , then lift straight up.

POAx · Feb 11, 2017

I would take the time to take off the table before any attempt to lift the saw. In my opinion the first thing as will be destroyed, if something goes wrong, is the expensive and sensible table interface to the saw body.

bryan_machine · Feb 11, 2017

1. do NOT lift by the trunnions that hold the table, or by the table itself - this is a common way of cracking the trunnions.
2. at least modern doalls have a threaded boss on the top into which an eyebolt may be screwed, allowing it be picked up from above. you'll have to get above it to see this. this works, but at least mine didn't balance very well.

SAG 180 · Feb 11, 2017

I had a Startrite 20RWF bandsaw weighing 800 lbs in a similar situation: I was able to hammer some wood wedges between the bandsaw and pallet to get a small gap and then ran three 1000 lb ratchet straps under the bandsaw and then over the top and through a rope loop made of four loops of rope before tightening the ratchet straps. I then had some more rope up looped around the upper bandsaw and tied to the straps to stabilize it and prevent tipping forwards. I had to open the motor cover to run the straps fairly straight with minimal sideways strain. Then a chain hoist to the overhead steel was able to lift it up off the back of truck and over to the ground. The balance was off a bit so it wasn't level while it was up in the air but it worked ok.

Tyrone Shoelaces · Feb 11, 2017

If you can get access to the top of the upper panel from the inside drill a 5/8" hole in the top. You could then fasten a 5/8" eyebolt to the top with a nut from the inside. You could probably get away with a 1/2" hole and eyebolt but I prefer to play safe.

To design a large machine without provision for safe lifting is poor practice.

Regards Tyrone.

adama · Feb 11, 2017

With how famous they are for busted trunions is more than bad practice Tyrone, its border line negligence!

Tyrone Shoelaces · Feb 11, 2017

adama said:
With how famous they are for busted trunions is more than bad practice Tyrone, its border line negligence!

As the MD of one company I once worked for used to say - " It's good for trade ! "

Regards Tyrone.

moonlight machine · Feb 11, 2017

Every Do All vertical saw I have been around has a threaded hole for an eye bolt. I would bet that one has one too, climb up high enough to look down at the top of the saw, see, it's right there in front of you!

kb0thn · Feb 11, 2017

Looks like the pallet is about to go. If you want to do things from the bottom, you could disassemble the pallet piece by piece and then just a pry bar to remove the last few bits of wood trapped under the machine. I have had to do something similar when pallets have been mostly destroyed in shipping.

GregSY · Feb 11, 2017

Yeah....they all have a threaded hole for an eyebolt...at least all the ones I've seen.

Chip Chester · Feb 11, 2017

Looks like your building is steel framed. A chainfall from above will do the job, and the major frame members will have no problem holding that weight 4" high for 3 minutes. Absent the lift eyebolt, strappage will suffice. You could also install an eyebolt yourself. Forged, properly rated for weight, and I'd make it go all the way thru the frame if it's tubular steel. You can remove it and stow it inside for the next time. Watch your toes and your nose.

Chip

dgfoster · Feb 11, 2017

It sounds like your goal may be to just lower the saw to floor level or get it down onto metal pipes to roll it to its new location in your shop. If that is true, just get a bunch of 1/2" thick by 4" wide by 30" long boards
Then cut away some of the pallet to allow cribbing under the machine near the front and near the back. By using a pinch bar you will be able to rock the machine up enough to insert a board or two on the front stack and then on the rear stack so that the machine is raised higher than the pallet. Remove the remnants of the pallet. Now lower the machine 1/2" inch at a time by rocking and removing cribbing alternately front and rear. I used that method on a surface grinder that arrived on a pallet. If you go slow and think about the moves, it is very safe and controlled and only require a good 5' pinch bar.

Since the top of this pallet is plywood, I'd crib under the plywood and lower the machine with plywood under it to the floor. Then use the pinch bar to slide it off the plywood. Raise it onto roller pipes and away you go...

Denis

PS the photos shown are familiar in their setup. So, I'm pretty sure they were not taken by the OP in his shop. The seller had them on their website is my guess.

Tony Quiring · Feb 11, 2017

Always assume it has been moved before as it got into the pallet from someplace so you just need to figure that out.

Also assume most small things like this and bridge ports that do not have built in places for forks usually use overhead lift so a crane cab be used.

Get a ladder and look for large threaded holes or bolts vertical in the top.

Our BP has an arm holding the DRO and mister attached by the bolt hole for the lifting eye.

Look for a too big for that bolt on top.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

michiganbuck · Feb 11, 2017

I would likely pinch bar it up from the side perhaps 2" to set a 2x4 under, then the other side..going up to get forks under.
Two inch tilt won't fall the machine.
Might put an extra 2x4 inside the pallet if not trusting.

Having a crain in the shop you could strap to top board of the pallet and lift, to than knock away the pallet bottom and then just pinch bar off the one board of the pallet

nc5a · Feb 11, 2017

moonlight machine said:
Every Do All vertical saw I have been around has a threaded hole for an eye bolt. I would bet that one has one too, climb up high enough to look down at the top of the saw, see, it's right there in front of you!

I agree, most large industrial bandsaws I've messed with have had some way means for rigging/lifting but not this one.

GregSY said:
Yeah....they all have a threaded hole for an eyebolt...at least all the ones I've seen.

No threaded hole or even a hole for an eye bolt.

dgfoster; PS the photos shown are familiar in their setup. So said:
I did indeed take the photos in my shop. I purchased it (non working) from a guy that got it from military surplus. And, since I and the guy I bought it from don't have web sites you couldn't have seen it there. That being said, the photos were taken for advertising purposes

I did however post photos of it once on PM asking for help locating a manual when I was having no luck getting DoAll to respond to my request. But the the saw wasn't cleaned up and operational at the time.

Ron

nc5a · Feb 11, 2017

Tyrone Shoelaces said:
If you can get access to the top of the upper panel from the inside drill a 5/8" hole in the top. You could then fasten a 5/8" eyebolt to the top with a nut from the inside. You could probably get away with a 1/2" hole and eyebolt but I prefer to play safe.

To design a large machine without provision for safe lifting is poor practice.

Regards Tyrone.

I'm not sure the top of the wheel housing is strong enough for single point lifting but I could probably get by with a spreader bar or plate to distribute the load. The base on this thing is 3/4" thick steel and is clearly factory. A forklift rated to 3250 lbs struggles to lift it.

Ron

dgfoster · Feb 11, 2017

OP, still wondering what your goal is. Do you need to lift it to a different level or do you need to simply get it onto the floor?

Denis

nc5a · Feb 11, 2017

dgfoster said:
OP, still wondering what your goal is. Do you need to lift it to a different level or do you need to simply get it onto the floor?

Denis

I just need to get it on the floor. I was going to sell it but it runs so smooth and quiet I decided to keep it.

Ron

How do I lift this bandsaw off the pallet?

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