how do you run your de-burring wheels?

is a non-woven abrasive convolute wheel (scotch-brite , bear-tex ) a buffing wheel or a grinding wheel?

do you find them safer in a shrouded pedestal grinder , or an open spindle buffing machine?

i am running two 8" x 1" (180,320) wheels in a shrouded machine for deburring and have been considering removing the wheel guards for better access (would it be easier to control ?)

i have been injured more by this machine and my little 2nd-op drill press than all the other machines
in my shop combined. what is it about these seemingly innocent tools that inspires gashed fingers
and burned fingernails?

I've got mine on an open spindle with no guards, it's too restrictive otherwise. I mainly use them for removing rust from steel though and have banned anyone else from using them after someone put a new wheel on backwards and jammed something into it and peeled the spiral wound material, unwinding it and destroying the wheel in an instant. The only danger so far is from the friction heated metal of the item being cleaned burning my fingers.

Wire wheels and soft wheels guard housings should not be equipped with tool rests IMHO .. I think the newer OSHA ruling supports this...

wire wheel
http://osha.oregon.gov/OSHARules/interps/im-94-25.pdf

soft wheel
https://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=INTERPRETATIONS&p_id=22614

I have a 2"x8" on an open spindle and a 6"x1" on each side of a Baldor grinder, both open.

I made a 6" shaft extension for my Craftsman 6" grinder that mounts either the 6" honing wheel or 6" buffing wheels. It is completely open. No different than the Baldor or knockoff buffers. I make sure the wheels are rated for the rpm of the motor. I have an 8" buffing wheel but the motor doesn't have the torque to polish with it. If I load it up it will stall so I stick to 6".

I will not use wire wheels period. The honing wheels leave a better finish on both steel and aluminum and are easy to regulate material removal. They don't explode if using in the proper rpm range and don't spit out high speed wire bullets.[emoji856]

On the other side of grinder I have a 6" grinding wheel that uses the factory covers.


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tnmgcarbide said:

is a non-woven abrasive convolute wheel (scotch-brite , bear-tex ) a buffing wheel or a grinding wheel?

do you find them safer in a shrouded pedestal grinder , or an open spindle buffing machine?

Click to expand...

These wheels come in different grades suited to different purposes. I have a scotchbrite I routinely use for deburring. I run it open. Can't imagine safety issues. The rules seem simple -- safety glasses, vacuum, don't go sticking your fingers into the wheel when it's going round & round.

-Marty-

I use the very open-meshed scotchbrite wheels without guards. They are 6" wheels on an 1800 RPM motor. Not for de-burring, just rust removal, light polishing. No problems so far, but I always wear safety glasses. If the material is very heat-conductive like thin copper or aluminum I also (gasp!) wear gloves!

Bigger wheel, denser wheel, or higher RPM would be scary to use this way I think.

If I'm using an open wheel buffer, I'd like to have a big-ass paddle over the off switch, so I just can't miss it if I have a omygod moment. And have the buffer bolted down, so its stable and can't topple over under the higher loads I may put on it.

Yeah, it's funny how some machines have it in for you. The most danger I'm in when at my shop is from a particularity demonic pair of scissors that's gotten me three or four times while cleaning them. Sharp little bastard...

Qt: The rules seem simple -- safety glasses, vacuum, don't go sticking your fingers into the wheel when it's going round & round.
-Marty-

Agree with Marty ... most old grinder and buffer hands know to angle and down hold the part so nothing will catch and throw the job or hands to a danger smack to an obstruction. New guy to the trade might not do so. also wheel running true is important as running out or round or balance can be a problem. I once lost the tip (skin) of a finger because a wheel was changed on a bench grinder and not dressed so running out.. it whacked my hand down and finger smacked a sharp edge of the guard. Cant hardly tell one little finger is 1/16 shorter that the other.

In cutter sharpening grinding wheels are used with not having a set table as often one rolls the back-off or grinds a flute up to a circle grind and that is difficult to impossible with a set-on table.

I do think the use of a dust mask is good for any open wheel use. I use a simple dust mask for TC and surface grinding...yes now after over 30 years of not using a mask.

thanks for the replies .

i've always had ONE in the shop .... usually a 6" wheel, on a seldom used
bench grinder,in the corner ... to put a fine edge on HSS tools , make important parts pretty.

that was when the nonwoven 6"-8" wheels were $60-$100 apiece. an almost luxury item - to be used with reserve.

now that i can get one cheaper than a REX-CUT cotton type-27 blending wheel,
a grilled tuna sandwich, or a 12-pack of decent beer (or a NOS, USA Nicholson file!) i use
them more and more ... to the point where fuzzy bits permeate my clothes .

i have removed the shrouds from the machine ,but now i'll have to deal with all the mess - now that
i can't catch the debris from a hose.

Couple of pics of my set up. I turned the shafts (one right hand, one left hand thread) starting by drilling and tapping the end that attaches to the grinder shaft. I then made an arbor that I cut the same thread on. I threaded the shaft on the arbor, center drilled the uncut end for a live center support. I cut the od, the wheel od and threaded the end. The shafts run true on the grinder. There is however some run out on the grinder shaft itself. What do you expect for a $75.00 grinder right?[emoji12]


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