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Planar Knurling

captianpattson

Plastic
Joined
Mar 29, 2013
Location
Utahr
Hi ya'll. I have a seemingly simple question that, for some reason, I can't seem to find the answer to. I'm trying to find out the proper method or even the proper name of the process for "knurling" on a flat surface. Some examples would be the texture on bench vise jaws, the grip on the inside surface of needle nose pliers, the grip surface on the hammer of a revolver, or the cross-hatching on the side plates of a pocket knife. The only thing I can find is the possibility of using a old style metal shaper with a threading tool, but this method doesn't allow you to create odd contours (like on the handles of pliers). I know there has to be a simpler process since its used so often. I would almost think that the patterns could be stamped on but it often looks like its a first hand process, even on inexpensive parts. Thank you guys for any direction you could give.
 
I've used a tap (1/4"-20) with all but one flute ground away to side profile grooves into a piece for griping. Worked great. I've seen a post somewhere where the guy (Frank Ford maybe?) made a knurl holder for the spindle and ran it back and forth over the workpiece which seemed to work ok for the job at hand.
 
I have done some linear knurling using my horizontal mill. I bought a bunch of 3/8" (or so) wide French 19th.C. knurls with figural ornamentation on them. They have proved to be murder to press into brass hard enough in the lathe. Likely they were used to ornament silver and gold originally.

My wife wanted to make some bracelets. I made a special steel fixture for holding the knurling tool holder with the overhead arm of the mill. Then,I used the table movement to run the knurls (Fleur de lis pattern) down a piece of annealed soft bronze. Only 1 pass can be made,as the bronze strip is considerably lengthened by the pressure of the knurl. Any 2nd. attempt does not register with the first. I was able to make some good knurled bracelet bands in this way. They will sell well in New Orleans.
 
I will have to go out and look in the tool drawer, but I am pretty sure that a fair amount of things like a pliers handle are done hot- forged, not cut.
 
We have and use dozens of those classic light duty "Pony" bar clamps, and the guys tossed some in a box because they wouldn't hold very well. Looking 'em over, I noticed that some had been born with completely smooth bars, and, indeed they didn't get a grip at all. So, I set about doing a simple job to renew some of the worn ones and knurl the smooth new ones, I just made a holder that fit in a collet by taking one of those ultra-cheap single lathe knurling tools and turning the shank to provide a shoulder so it wouldn't get shoved back up into the R8 collet. Then it was easy to clamp a clamp and run back and forth pressing a nice pattern into the bars:

millknurl06.jpg


millknurl07.jpg
 
I made some grips for a customers tensile testing machine out of 01 tool steel , I used a straight knurling wheel off a lathe in the shaping machine , started at one side and travesed to the other while the shaper was running back and forth, I made the parts over length as it is important to keep the knurling wheel in contact all the time, the result was OK but not as sharp as the bought grips which I think would have been cut. I think I did several passes before the knurl got to full depth and it is not something I would want to do a lot of as it gives the machine some stick. I have a pin to lock the clapper.
 
KNEW there was a reason I bought a shaper..... but I'd have single-pointed then swiveled and done again, not rolled.

;)

Bill

That was plan B, the way I did it was quicker and worked better than I expected, this was just straight (one direction).
 
'nuther possibility with that though. S'pose the target surface was curved....

Shaper's stout ram might stand a trick a mill would be right unhappy with. Mount roll-knurls on a stout spring so as to be able to follow the curve...

Bill

It would need to be a seriously strong spring, perhaps a big belville washer but i'm sure it could be made to work.When I did this I was a bit worried about the forces on the downfeed screw but I suppose the slide could be taken off altogether and replaced with a solid block.
 
I have used a knurl in my Bridgeport exactly the same as Ford's picture. But,with these wide knurls,I don't want to hurt the spindle bearings. And you're correct,thermite. It would be roll embossing.
 
Had to make a hammer for an old 12 ga shotgun. Cousin lost it and couldn't find another. Made him a new one and the knurling on the thumb pull surface was put on using a thread file the same pitch as the other hammer. No machine way of doing this.
 
What is a "first hand process" in your vernacular?

There are two main processes used to accomplish the "knurling" you ask about. Metal removal and plastic deformation. The former is machining if not done by hand (some of the finest is), the latter isn't. It takes plenty of machining to create the tools to accomplish it. Metal removal is expensive, mass produced products stay away from it to the extent possible.

The "knurling" on your plier handles and such was struck by dies, so were the tips of your needlenose pliers. Mass production requires the lowest possible cost to stay competitive. Knurling shapes can be easily investment cast too. Electroforming works. Point is the lowest cost possible successful process is the correct one if it achieves a positive customer response to stay growing business.
 








 
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