Results 21 to 36 of 36
04-01-2013, 11:08 AM #21
+1 to find or make hardware that fits. Does anyone know a machinist?
thermite liked this post
04-01-2013, 11:37 AM #22
Don't damage the porcelain. Paint AIN'T as durable. Machine the brass instead if you don't want to see rust years from now.
04-01-2013, 12:31 PM #23
This may be of interest How do I drill a hole into a cast iron bath? Drilling baths.
As to coating in the hole I was told that its essential to use some sort of rust killer followed by a high build coating system with primer rather than a simple paint. Primer is really thin so I guess its more like an etch primer. When the coating system is fully hardened, takes a couple of days I believe, usual slatherings of silcone on assembly to really seal everything. Guy who told me decided it was too much trouble to have done so he got a new bath.
Mark Leigh liked this post
04-01-2013, 02:14 PM #24
04-01-2013, 02:19 PM #25
I bet somewhere out there on the internet there is a collection of guys, who would probably know someone who could make some nice 303 stainless adapters that could be brushed to give a nice finish in the tub.
04-01-2013, 06:56 PM #26
04-02-2013, 12:07 AM #27
As to the pilot question, Starrett make a special holesaw arbor they call their "oops" arbor. It allows you to mount two saws with the smaller one somewhat ahead of the larger - which makes the smaller saw act as a pilot.
S_W_Bausch liked this post
04-02-2013, 05:30 PM #28
Use a continuous diamond as mentioned above with a wood hole pilot and Absolutely drill from the top. It will break/chip if done from the bottom. Slow and Wet....
04-02-2013, 05:50 PM #29
Thanks for all the replies.
Here are a couple of photos of the sink in question:
04-02-2013, 06:27 PM #30
there was a thread on making a type of hole saw - for making the round viewing glass for gauges - it was on this site some time back - may be if you still wish have a look at for it -
04-03-2013, 01:33 AM #31
Test a plasma cutter on an old fixture....
04-03-2013, 03:20 AM #32
No sink expert, but looking at my 30 year old sink...
If you cut thru the Porcelain with a cast iron base, you are creating a RAW edge..
Said raw edge WILL, eventually get water under it, LIFTING porcelain from the cast iron as it rusts.....
Make a NEW fitting, to adapt to modern drain plumbing...
04-03-2013, 04:10 AM #33
04-03-2013, 04:23 AM #34
Hard to name a fixture maker in Europe, Asia, or the US that does not have their wares on display here, and the range of fittings covers it all.
Should be just as easy to order wot already fits online. Dirt-simple to adapt supply-side, just as easy on DWV.
US 'Big Box' stores have a wide variety of 'appearance' choices, but not even a small fraction of the mechanical side choices in global use.
04-03-2013, 05:22 AM #35
Don't do it! Find the correct parts. The UK is a great source for antique parts.
04-03-2013, 08:05 AM #36
Two reasons to either find a replacement (very likely could be done) or machine a new one.