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Kalamazoo Bandsaw - mystery lever

Hoppy

Cast Iron
Joined
Feb 21, 2005
Location
Millington, NJ
I'm working on an older Kalamazoo horizontal bandsaw (sorry, can't find a model or serial number). On the front side of the frame, near the right side, there's a large lever that's not connected to anything. It's mounted on an eccentric bushing and has several flats on the "hub" into which the bushing fits. Any idea what this is for?
 
It is for the big spring that acts as a counter weight for the whole top frame and motor. the flats are all at increasing distances from the lever pivot. This feature changes the preload on the giant hairpin spring.
 
Moonlight Machine: Thanks! That solves the mystery. On my machine the hairpin spring is broken and somebody replaced it by adding an extension spring the goes from the top (movable) frame to the bottom (stationary) frame. It's really to weak to do much of anything and I'd really like to put a new hairpin spring in. Do you know if they're still available?
 
No, nothing is available, it is to old. The spring on mine is too weak to be of any use so I rerouted and extended the oil lines from the cylinder to a small ball valve and 10 turn needle valve and then back to the cylinder. The piston in the cylinder has a check valve in it so it is free flowing when you lift it up. I put the valves on the frame above the cutting area, you set the drop speed with the needle valve and use the ball valve to hold it up. I used -3 aeroquip teflon lined stainless steel braided line to the valves as I have lots of old line and fittings from old race car brakes. It is total over kill as the stuff is good for about 6000 psi.
 
Do a search on kalamazoo and spring - you will get more info as well as pictures.

A quick google and guess what - those springs are available for all of $40
Kalamazoo Saw Parts

Did not check the site much to see if they are associated with clausing - clausing supported the saws and had at least some of the parts - they were super helpful as well - sending out the pdf of the old manuals (and they gave me the OK to post it, but the site I put it on dried up should probably find another host site).

Paul
 
When I tried to get parts I was told by Clausing that they had parts for newer saws but not for the old ones. That said the saw has not needed anything in years and has made thousands of cuts.
 
I converted mine in a similar fashion years ago. Small shop made tank, Bimba cylinder, check valve, and needle valve. The only problem with it is cold weather oil viscosity.
 
the link says they are an aftermarket supplier - I would check clausing first then the link (looks like they may have stuff clausing no longer has.

The spring would be a lousy control of the downfeed - there was a stock hyd damper that could be adjusted, mine was missing, and I found someone on ebay that made a reasonable facsimile for less then it would have cost me to make one (I think it was under $100). Does not have the remote control up by the vise handle but that is no big deal.

Paul
 
Mine still had the control by the vice handle. It sucked though because it only had one lever to control the hold up and drop speed. you had to mess with the drop speed every cut. a separate valve and needle valve is the way to go.
 
I converted mine in a similar fashion years ago. Small shop made tank, Bimba cylinder, check valve, and needle valve. The only problem with it is cold weather oil viscosity.

Useful information......Hydraulic oil that needs to flow in cold weather = Aircraft Hydraulic Fluid. Long ago, I plowed the snow on my parking lot. When it got really cold like 15 - 20 below zero, the plow hydraulic system caused problems. The plow hydraulics used a 12 volt motor (like a starter motor) to run a small pump that lifted and lowered the plow. When it got real cold, the motor for the hydraulic system would draw so much current that my truck battery voltage would go low enough to cause the truck to stop running. It only happened once. From then on, I watched the battery voltage and when it started getting low, I just took a break and let the alternator charge it back up. During one of these breaks, I happened to look up and see a Military jet flying "way up there". It seemed to me that lots of airplanes flew "way up there". It's really cold up there. They have lots of hydraulic stuff on them. I did some investigating and found that aircraft hydraulic fluid looks like ATF. It's red, low viscosity, and stays that way when it gets cold, and nobody could give me a straight answer about using it for my truck plow.

The rest is history. For the next 20 years I never used anything else in a plow hydraulic system. It never caused any kind of problem. The viscosity at 70 degrees F and -20 degrees F looks very much the same. The only problem was buying small amounts. At first it was only available in 55 gal. drums. After a few years, you could get it in 5 gal. cans. It does cost more than ATF, but the difference was worth it to me.
 
Useful information......Hydraulic oil that needs to flow in cold weather = Aircraft Hydraulic Fluid. Long ago, I plowed the snow on my parking lot. When it got really cold like 15 - 20 below zero, the plow hydraulic system caused problems. The plow hydraulics used a 12 volt motor (like a starter motor) to run a small pump that lifted and lowered the plow. When it got real cold, the motor for the hydraulic system would draw so much current that my truck battery voltage would go low enough to cause the truck to stop running. It only happened once. From then on, I watched the battery voltage and when it started getting low, I just took a break and let the alternator charge it back up. During one of these breaks, I happened to look up and see a Military jet flying "way up there". It seemed to me that lots of airplanes flew "way up there". It's really cold up there. They have lots of hydraulic stuff on them. I did some investigating and found that aircraft hydraulic fluid looks like ATF. It's red, low viscosity, and stays that way when it gets cold, and nobody could give me a straight answer about using it for my truck plow.

The rest is history. For the next 20 years I never used anything else in a plow hydraulic system. It never caused any kind of problem. The viscosity at 70 degrees F and -20 degrees F looks very much the same. The only problem was buying small amounts. At first it was only available in 55 gal. drums. After a few years, you could get it in 5 gal. cans. It does cost more than ATF, but the difference was worth it to me.
I ran alot of hydraulic systems in northern Canada, if you use synthetic or semi-synthetic oil you should have no problems depending on the GPM. Alot of farmers in the north swear by ATF in their hydraulic systems!!
 
You guys are all confused about that hydraulic cylinder thing . It is not for adjusting the feed rat at all . It is only a variable height device to hold the saw up while you move the stock underneath .
My old Kalmazoo has a drawer full of 6-8 of those broken springs . The last time I bought one ( about 15 years ago ) , an old heat treater told me to fire up the wifes oven to 400F , put the spring in , and turn the oven off and let it
sit till next morning . This will draw some of the hardness out so it won't break .
But I never put that spring in . We rigged up a clip clop mechanism and hooked a couple of old garage door springs . This saw was a poor design from the start . Way too much head weight for that pigtail spring to handle .
It was a one man saw , meaning , you had to baby the cut through or else you risked ripping a stretch of teeth off . For some reason we always had the best luck with a wavy tooth set instead of a plain raker tooth - 3/4" X 125" if I recall .
Now I have an Ellis and to borrow from their expertise : lift the saw head 1" off the table with a spring scale ( fish scale ) and adjust the spring till you have 4-6# of downward force .
I'll bet that Kalmazoo had 20# at least !
If I had to use that old beast again , I'd build some kind of counterweight peg out on the motor end , and maybe some kind of threaded rod to fine tune the weight .
You might want to go to the Ellis saw site to look at their saw /spring design . Mine has 2 progressive springs mounted to a nut on a threaded rod . It is a nice simple design that is very adjustable .
FBBob
 
Last edited:
FBBob,

No argument that the torsion spring is less than optimum. The manuals from Kalamazoo indicate using the handle on the coil spring to adjust "feed pressure or head weight" The 816/824 manual inidicates a 12-14lb range which is significantly higher than the Ellis number.

on the hydraulics;
"the hydraulic dash-pot cylinder serves to hold the head in the up position and to control the speed of descent of the head. It can be used to slow the descent of the head when sawing thin wall stock to prevent tearing the stock or stripping teeth from the blade. It does not control feed pressure which is determined by head weight"

So in addition to a up stop it is a feed rate adjustment at least per design.

Trying to register with vintagemachinary so I can put the manual there
Paul
 
You guys are all confused about that hydraulic cylinder thing . It is not for adjusting the feed rat at all . It is only a variable height device to hold the saw up while you move the stock underneath .
My old Kalmazoo has a drawer full of 6-8 of those broken springs . The last time I bought one ( about 15 years ago ) , an old heat treater told me to fire up the wifes oven to 400F , put the spring in , and turn the oven off and let it
sit till next morning . This will draw some of the hardness out so it won't break .
But I never put that spring in . We rigged up a clip clop mechanism and hooked a couple of old garage door springs . This saw was a poor design from the start . Way too much head weight for that pigtail spring to handle .
It was a one man saw , meaning , you had to baby the cut through or else you risked ripping a stretch of teeth off . For some reason we always had the best luck with a wavy tooth set instead of a plain raker tooth - 3/4" X 125" if I recall .
Now I have an Ellis and to borrow from their expertise : lift the saw head 1" off the table with a spring scale ( fish scale ) and adjust the spring till you have 4-6# of downward force .
I'll bet that Kalmazoo had 20# at least !
If I had to use that old beast again , I'd build some kind of counterweight peg out on the motor end , and maybe some kind of threaded rod to fine tune the weight .
You might want to go to the Ellis saw site to look at their saw /spring design . Mine has 2 progressive springs mounted to a nut on a threaded rod . It is a nice simple design that is very adjustable .
FBBob

No, you are all confused..............The 10 turn needle valve makes it easy to set the rate of drop, before this mod. it used to eat blades, rip the teeth off and get stuck the material all the time. Now it works great, blades last forever and I never have to pry the blade out of the cut.
 








 
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