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Thread: Lagun FT-1?

  1. #1
    1967marti is offline Aluminum
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    Default Lagun FT-1?

    Is this a good mill?
    I think i found a great deal on one in almost perfect condition.
    Is this a solid mill or should i hold out for something else?

    thank you!

  2. #2
    KIMFAB's Avatar
    KIMFAB is offline Stainless
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    I have the FT-2 version and am quite happy with it. Think Bridgeport only a bit heavier.
    Most of the Bridgeport accessories and some of the parts are interchangeable.



    The FT-1 is a bit smaller. Check it out like you would any other mill.

    Parts are readily available here: Republic Lagun | Machining Tool Manufacturer and Distributor

  3. #3
    1967marti is offline Aluminum
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    what would a good price be for a ft1?
    I might be able to get it for 1200 not including shipping...
    How easy would it be to take it apart for shipping?

  4. #4
    KIMFAB's Avatar
    KIMFAB is offline Stainless
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    If it is in any kind of shape at all it should be worth $1200

    Check for motor noise and vibration, wear on moving parts, operation of feeds and any accessories like a vise.

    I just turned the head upside down and set it on the table for the ride home but the whole head and ram comes off and the table can be removed relatively easily.

    Here is one available in Vegas
    Lagun-FT-1 Vertical Mill Belt Head 9" x 42" Table, Chrome Ways, 2 Axis Digital Read Out on X and Y, 6" Mill Vise with Swivel Base, R-8 Collet, Clamp Set, Free Local Delivery…$3,750.00

  5. #5
    gr8life is offline Cast Iron
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    I also have a Lagun & really like it. As Kimfab says $$ vs condition is always an issue.
    thanks
    ed

  6. #6
    1967marti is offline Aluminum
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    Thank you for the replies!
    I pulled the trigger and shook hands on a deal for the mill.
    It's in great condition other than a very light "dusting" of rust on the ways that were exposed as it's sat inside for 2-3 years now.
    It comes with some tooling but not too much.

    So my next question is how do i set this thing up when i get it home? Should i have it on roller feet or sitting on the cement? What about leveling feet? Or possibily some other form of footing like a thick peice of rubber or plastic?

  7. #7
    KIMFAB's Avatar
    KIMFAB is offline Stainless
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    It's nice if you can level it.
    Use shims under each corner so it doesn't move around.

    If you are really into it you can set it up nice and level, bolt it down and grout around the base but mine just sits level on the floor.

    I think this machine is a little big for rollers.

  8. #8
    hkcarbine is offline Aluminum
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    Default Lagun

    Another vote for Lagun from Las Vegas. I have the FTV2S and think it is a great machine. I put mine on leveling feet and away I go! In fact, I took advice from the other fellows from Vegas when I purchased mine.

    Hkcarbine

  9. #9
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    An FT-1 Lagun won't roll around like the Barbeque.

    That class of vertical mill has great stiffness in its small footprint, so leveling as on a lathe, to "center" the flexure to a flat plane is not a consideration. It won't flex but, I believe that it's worthwhile to level it as closely as you can.

    Sometimes set-ups can be simplified by using a level or inclinometer but that requires that the mill be level to start with, as a control base.

    Examples might be a rough casting or a multi-piece weldment, etc. with 2 or more control points that can be relied on but are "buried" by projections.

    Bridge across with a level on elevating blocks, lock part in place and cut the rough casting to establish the plane surface for all subsequent machining operations.

    Easily adjustable pads a nicety for leveling and in this case, to raise my K&T mill to a more convenient level, for me.

    Bob
    Below the "assembled" page of my shop build guide. Yes, I talk to myself all the time, even on paper. Saves a lot of "wha'd the hell I mean by that?"
    I threaded the 2" bar between chuck and live center, turned the 1" weld-pin portions, then "parted" the 4 of them on the horiz. bandsaw.
    The 2 lengths of the threaded sleeves, (2.3" & 1.8") reflect approx. slab tilt. The "engineering" was established by material-on-hand.

    No surprise to me, gravity has kept the 3,800 pound mill in place and the 9 sq. in. pads have not yet begun to sink in the hard concrete.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails k-t-leveling-pads.jpg  

  10. #10
    i_r_machinist is offline Titanium
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    '67,
    You have started down a dark path, my friend! It starts off innocently at first, "It's only $1200", and, "It won't take up much room." , and, "I can move it with an engine hoist."

    It ends with "What's the biggest forklift you have that will fit through a 10 foot high door?"

    Run away while you still can!
    +1 on Lagun
    have fun
    i_r_machinist
    Limy Sami likes this.

  11. #11
    1967marti is offline Aluminum
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    Thank you all for all the aqdvice!
    I was also thinking of jack-scew feet of some-sort.
    Would building a frame with jackscrews in each of the 4 corners for the base to sit on be a good idea?

    I only have the forklift for 2 hours total so i'm trying to plan ahead and have the mill in place so i can to all the leveling myself.

    Also i noticed a large eye-bold on the top of the mill. is this just for lifting the head or can it be used to lift the while mill? I will be watching when it is loaded and unloaded and want to make sure it is done right.

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