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Belt grinder -- correct belt path ?

Ferrous Antiquos

Titanium
Joined
Mar 23, 2004
Location
Lawn Guylin, Noo Yawk
How should the belt get threaded through on this unit? It's new to me (used) and the belt I was given with it seems too short to pass through or around all of the wheels.

The upper right wheel is spring loaded to tension the belt.

The smaller one above the driving wheel (lower left) seems just kind of out there.

What am I missing? (besides the instruction manual and/or experience)

DSCN0485.jpg
 
I'm just guessing but it looks like the belt is the very common 42" lenght, its possible that the belt lenght needed for the original version might not be available anymore.
 
Cream color paint + Taiwan = Jet?
I have a new Jet 1X42" that has neither the back idler nor the spring-loaded arm with idler.

I agree with RJT that the rear idler wheel looks like an add-on.

The spring-loaded arm was a feature of old Mead bandsanders also. VintageMachinery.org - Photo Index - Mead Specialties Co., Inc. - Mead Specialties 1x42 Band Sander

The OWWM site has six different pics of the Meads--most show that idler arm in a different position than in your pic. I have a Mead to restore, courtesy of JBishop here, and I don't think that arm is used to tension the belt in that position.
 
I had a belt grinder similar to yours. If you want to do internal grinding, run the belt around and pulley just above the drive pulley and not around the pulley located at the upper right.
steve
 
I have that same basic belt machine. The idler pulley should be between the upper pulley and the platten. The entire upper pulley and shaft that supports that idler are spring loaded to tension the belt.
I can take a pic if I need to. I don't use the original length belt. A 1 x 42 will work just fine if you ignore the rearmost idler.
 
Thanks to all for the suggestions, and to Tony for posting the pic. I tried a few different paths and the one in my OP works okay, especially after I turned the driver wheel the other way so the hub is on the inside - it aligns better with the other wheels that way.

Now I find that the idlers are way out of line, the wheels need more crown, the motor mount is askew, the motor belt pulley slips on the shaft...etc.

Oh well, what did I expect for $40 ? :-)
 
"...I tried a few different paths and the one in my OP works okay..."

It works even better if you swing the upper idler arm so it rests against the top rear of the platen. If the platen is unsupported, it will flex when grinding and leave an unintentional bevel on the work. In post 11, the belt should go around the rear idler. Then the swinging idler will be low enough to hit the back of the platen.

Years ago, I made a guard for the upper wheel. It keeps some of the grit out of my face and keeps me from accidental contact with the belt.

I bought my Rockwell sander new in the 1970's and have used it more than most of my other machines. The bench grinders almost never get used. I was glad to be reminded of the setup of the small idler wheels that allow sanding inside holes. I don't think I ever needed to do that trick, and had forgotten how it was done. As to running the idlers on the grit side of the belt in that setup, I will point out that the Rockwell OEM idlers had urethane tires on them to resist damage. The urethane can flake off after 30 years of use, at least it did on my big upper wheel. My original sander has a cast iron table. I bought a newer one at a garage sale to swap out the bad upper wheel, and it has a stamped steel table.

Larry
 
I know, L Vanice, but this routing allows use of the shorter belt, of which I have a free large supply. Originally, yes, the longer belt was routed around the rear idler. I haven't experienced any problems running it this way, and it gives a little "soft" area above the platten to work. That would eventually ruin the platten, so it's not something I do often.
 








 
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