LPS 3 removal

Has anyone found something better than mineral spirits? Thanks.

re-spray with LPS #2, let soak a little.

smt

stephen thomas said:

re-spray with LPS #2, let soak a little.

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Interesting....does that assist in removal of LPS3 way better than mineral spirits or just a slight improvement ? If way better, LPS should repackage LPS2 as an LPS3 remover ! Hopefully boosting it's removal capabilities a little as well.

stephen thomas said:

re-spray with LPS #2, let soak a little.

smt

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In my experience, the best solvent for many coatings is a fresh application of the same or a similar product. I do the same with the protective sprays used on molds. Also, the best way to clean gunky Sunnen mandrels is to soak them in honing oil.

From the LPS3 Technical document on the LPSlabs website:

Removal Information:

Removal of LPS3 is best accomplished using a solvent such as LPS PreSolve or LPS A-151 (mineral spirits will suffice but may require more time to remove). Apply degreaser via spraying, brushing or roller. Allow degreaser to dwell for 5 - 10 minutes on surface. Agitation on surface with stiff brush may increase the effectiveness. Dwell time may vary depending on corrosion inhibitor thickness. Remove by wiping with absorbent rags or by scraping. Repeat process if complete removal is not achieved. Dispose of waste according to local and federal regulations.

Steve

Interesting....does that assist in removal of LPS3 way better than mineral spirits or just a slight improvement ? If way better, LPS should repackage LPS2 as an LPS3 remover ! Hopefully boosting it's removal capabilities a little as well

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Perhaps oddly, I have never used mineral spirits in my either damp, or cool and hense potentially condensing, shop.


I usually spray a tool or part with LPS2 to get saturation, then top coat it with #3 if it is going to be "stored" for an unknown period more than a week. When brought out of storage, I know it is going to either go back in, or set out on the bench or set up on a machine for a few days, so I almost never want it dry. Just don't want coating interfering with set up. So after done, it gets wiped down, cleaned up, and re-coated. I do not find that a slight (toweled off) film of #2 interferes with the use in most cases.

For grinding gear, the coolant usually is sufficient protection though I will often spray with #2 overnight. Then when done, I may spray the whole thing down with Zep or other lye base cleaner, submerge the tool and scrub to clean it with hot water, dry, blow-dry, and dunk in alcohol to really dry it. Then spray down with LPS to put away again. (Assuming no bearings or such in the tool)

You didn't really want to know all that.

short answer is I never compared.

smt

heres my results

skydawg said:

Has anyone found something better than mineral spirits? Thanks.

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I have found using charcoal lighter fluid works pretty dang well. That is after the lp3 had been sitting in our plastic tub for about a week left in the sun