I have an old Delta 14 inch woodworker's bandsaw with 93.5 inch blade. If I replaced the blade with one meant for metal cutting, would it be satisfactory for cutting aluminum (2.5 inch diameter rod, 6061)? It does not have the guide rollers to twist the blade 45 degrees, as in the typical metal bandsaw, but that is not a problem for my application. I have a scheme for installing a vise that would guide on the table slot. With blade change-out, could I again use it for wood?
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Use woodworker's bandsaw on aluminum?
- Thread starter dave49
- Start date
- Replies 32
- Views 17,083
The saw will cut aluminum without issue, other than that the aluminum will likelyy get hotter than it might otherwise, assuming that you will be running the blade at wood-cutting speeds. If you have a choice, run the saw on the lowest speed pulley setup, unless your machine has a gearbox that allows for metal-cutting speeds.
The twisting of the blade that you mention as "typical" for a metal bandsaw is only typical of inexpensive horizontal/vertical bandsaws, or portable bandsaws. This is a design feature driven by need for those saws to be able to cut some long pieces of profile sections, more or less square, without the material running into the frame of the saw. It is not a design feature of standard metal-cutting bandsaws found in machine shops generally. Those saws are configured like your saw, and many other woodcutting bandsaws.
Just clean the chips out and revert to wood as needed. Good idea to use a wax stick lube when cutting the aluminum. I would also recommend a fairly coarse tooth blade for the speed and material, something maybe 6-8 teeth/in.
And just FYI, if you have a decent table saw, that is perfectly fine to use for aluminum as well, with a good quality non-ferrous blade and stick lube. In both cases, be aware of the much greater resistance of the material to the cutting action than wood has. Hold and clamp appropriately.
The twisting of the blade that you mention as "typical" for a metal bandsaw is only typical of inexpensive horizontal/vertical bandsaws, or portable bandsaws. This is a design feature driven by need for those saws to be able to cut some long pieces of profile sections, more or less square, without the material running into the frame of the saw. It is not a design feature of standard metal-cutting bandsaws found in machine shops generally. Those saws are configured like your saw, and many other woodcutting bandsaws.
Just clean the chips out and revert to wood as needed. Good idea to use a wax stick lube when cutting the aluminum. I would also recommend a fairly coarse tooth blade for the speed and material, something maybe 6-8 teeth/in.
And just FYI, if you have a decent table saw, that is perfectly fine to use for aluminum as well, with a good quality non-ferrous blade and stick lube. In both cases, be aware of the much greater resistance of the material to the cutting action than wood has. Hold and clamp appropriately.
Newman109
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2006
It will cut sheet aluminum. The speed is too high for general metal cutting, however. I have the same saw, but I use it for wood.
As you no doubt already know, Delta sold the same saw with a metal-cutting gearbox to slow the speed down for metal.
I did cut sheet aluminum on my saw for a while some years ago and the chips ruined the original rubber tires. I replaced them with some more durable aftermarket plastic tires and haven't cut metal with it since. I have other tools for that purpose.
As you no doubt already know, Delta sold the same saw with a metal-cutting gearbox to slow the speed down for metal.
I did cut sheet aluminum on my saw for a while some years ago and the chips ruined the original rubber tires. I replaced them with some more durable aftermarket plastic tires and haven't cut metal with it since. I have other tools for that purpose.
crossthread
Titanium
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2004
- Location
- Richmond,VA,USA
As specfab says. I cut AL on my table saw all the time and I have a really nice metal cutting band saw. The reason I use the table saw is that I can use the fences to make sure it comes out reasonably square.
Trboatworks
Diamond
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2010
- Location
- Maryland- USA
I keep Lenox carbide ‘TriMaster’ blades in my wood bandsaws.
Chops through aluminum no problem- 2” sheet whatever.
Chops through aluminum no problem- 2” sheet whatever.
rons
Diamond
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2009
- Location
- California, USA
The blade will be moving too fast and the metal will get hot. As a consequence the blade will clog up and the tires will fill up with hot metal.
Eventually the cut will get done. The finish will not be so great and the clean up will not be fun.
Get a properly tensioned hacksaw and rotate the work with a 1/8" slot all the way around the bar. Then move through bar with the blade.
Home Shop Machinist magazine Jan/Feb 2004 has a cover article on a wood to metal bandsaw conversion.
Pete Deal
Titanium
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2007
- Location
- Morgantown, WV
I have the same Delta 14" wood cutting band saw. Blade speed about 3000ft/min as I recall. I keep a 6 tpi hook tooth blade on it and the blade lasts years. I cut aluminum of all thicknesses all the time with it. The attached photo is the blade speed chart off my 20" rockwell saw which has a 2 speed gearbox and can cut steel too. You can see the recommended blade speed for alu is about the same as for wood.
Attachments
Joe Gwinn
Stainless
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2009
- Location
- Boston, MA area
I cut aluminum plate on an old Delta table saw with a carbide-tipped blade. It works just fine, but it does require larger forces that softwood, as others have mentioned. Usual safety warnings apply.
You will need goggles and hearing protection while doing this. It's deafeningly loud, and throws hot chips everywhere. Bandsaws are much nicer to use.
Pete Deal
Titanium
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2007
- Location
- Morgantown, WV
A little clarification. As I said I cut aluminum with mine all the time but not in production. My bandsaw gets used a lot for all kinds of stuff. I reread your post and the one thing to watch is in cutting round stuff- wood, plastic, aluminum, anything. It would be best to camp it to a sled. I have had a little excitement cutting round things a few times. PVC pipe is one of them. The blade, going as fast as it is can grab the round piece and get it spinning. The worst thing is that it rips it out of your hands.
You don't need to change the blade.
You don't need to change the blade.
jbhill
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2002
- Location
- Bates City, MO 64011
I use my Powermatic 141 for aluminum with no issues. I've cut up to 4" thick with 1/4" wide 4 tooth blades. I use stick wax for lubrication and clean the wheels when they start to load up. It's worked well for years.
LKeithR
Stainless
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2011
- Location
- Langley, B.C.
This...
Not this...
We cut alum. of varying thicknesses all the time with an older woodcutting bandsaw. There are no issues. Use a 6 tpi
carbon blade and have at it...
rons
Diamond
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2009
- Location
- California, USA
Must get quite a nice finish with 6 tpi. (not)
I have the same Delta bandsaw. It was not designed for metal. This bandsaw barely makes it for cutting wood accurately. Sure it can cut through wood or some aluminium. The finish is not a good quality. If I worked in a scrap yard and had to saw up scrap aluminium into smaller pieces for the chipper then that saw would be at it's best.
Last edited:
Sounds a lot like a machine problem. Aluminum is just hard wood. Any saw worth its weight in sawdust should be able to handle aluminum.
Illinoyance
Stainless
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2015
The machine is quite capable of cutting that size of round occasionally. Not great for production.
Others have touched on it and I believe it needs to be emphasized: HOLD THE STOCK SECURELY TO PREVENT IT SPINNING.
Others have touched on it and I believe it needs to be emphasized: HOLD THE STOCK SECURELY TO PREVENT IT SPINNING.
john.k
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2012
- Location
- Brisbane Qld Australia
Dont know if its been mentioned,but ally dust mixed with sawdust can self ignite.So clean out the sawdust collector first,and definitely dont suck it up thru a dedicated dust collection system.
danil
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2008
- Location
- Mishawaka, IN
I use my 14" Delta for Alum exclusively. It was supposed to be temporary, but 7 years later we're still using it. Mostly trimming off ends of extrusions that are 1x1x.125, and c-channel 1.5x1.5x.125 and 2x2x.125. I am running it on high speed(wood cutting territory). The lower metal speeds, in my way of thinking, are for finer tooth blades for steel. I'm doing about 2,000 trims every 5 weeks.
The thing about stock like this is that although it is tubing-- it is just as solid are for that first 1/8" as solid stock.
Therefore, the dealbreaker will be your blade. Get the wrong blade and the saw will bog down in a heartbeat with significant side drag.
For me, I go with at least a 1/2" blade about 6 alternating teeth(for the clearance and chip removal).
DGI has what has lasted longest:
333026093.500 Silencer Plus 1/2X.035X6
DGI does a great job with bandsaw blades(they make them)... therefore, lean on their expertise for your particular needs. When I cut 2" solid on my Wellsaw-- I'm using a 4-6 tooth blade. It's funny-- you'd think those are too far apart and would just bend over-- but they make a nice chip.
Good luck.
The thing about stock like this is that although it is tubing-- it is just as solid are for that first 1/8" as solid stock.
Therefore, the dealbreaker will be your blade. Get the wrong blade and the saw will bog down in a heartbeat with significant side drag.
For me, I go with at least a 1/2" blade about 6 alternating teeth(for the clearance and chip removal).
DGI has what has lasted longest:
333026093.500 Silencer Plus 1/2X.035X6
DGI does a great job with bandsaw blades(they make them)... therefore, lean on their expertise for your particular needs. When I cut 2" solid on my Wellsaw-- I'm using a 4-6 tooth blade. It's funny-- you'd think those are too far apart and would just bend over-- but they make a nice chip.
Good luck.
Trboatworks
Diamond
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2010
- Location
- Maryland- USA
Good grief guys- just toss a carbide blade on the saw and go to town.
I have been chopping aluminum on my wood saw at high speed for years.
No fires, it isn’t meting the tires, the cut finish is fine, I don’t get clogging in the gullets ever- don’t use any lube on the blade and it’s not getting the stock hot:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GScUogCRBS8
The guides are loose- if I bothered to tighten them up I could get a better finish but that is fine as is.
Lenox TriMaster 1/2”x 3tpi:
LENOX Tri-Master(R) Carbide Band Saw Blades
These blade last for years in my shop cutting loads of abrasive teak, aluminum, plastics and most anything else I throw at it.
I never end up shedding teeth- they die when I make a mistake and lock up the blade in a odd bevel or the like throwing a kink in.
$200 bucks- who cares- time is money- these get the job done.
I have been chopping aluminum on my wood saw at high speed for years.
No fires, it isn’t meting the tires, the cut finish is fine, I don’t get clogging in the gullets ever- don’t use any lube on the blade and it’s not getting the stock hot:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GScUogCRBS8
The guides are loose- if I bothered to tighten them up I could get a better finish but that is fine as is.
Lenox TriMaster 1/2”x 3tpi:
LENOX Tri-Master(R) Carbide Band Saw Blades
These blade last for years in my shop cutting loads of abrasive teak, aluminum, plastics and most anything else I throw at it.
I never end up shedding teeth- they die when I make a mistake and lock up the blade in a odd bevel or the like throwing a kink in.
$200 bucks- who cares- time is money- these get the job done.
As mentioned a wax like stick lube (I have one made by DoAll) will work for occasional cuts. If in use more often a spray mist will work better.
I used to cut slabs of 3/4" thick aluminum on a conventional tablesaw, which worked ok but the hot chips were getting thrown all over the place and required me to wear a full face shield, hat and lab coat....not a pleasant experience...not to mention the insane noise...wore headphone like ear shields as well.
If you find the blade coming off the Delta, probably not a lot you can do other than go slower....those saws are so light duty with pitiful upper blade guide mechanism.
I used to cut slabs of 3/4" thick aluminum on a conventional tablesaw, which worked ok but the hot chips were getting thrown all over the place and required me to wear a full face shield, hat and lab coat....not a pleasant experience...not to mention the insane noise...wore headphone like ear shields as well.
If you find the blade coming off the Delta, probably not a lot you can do other than go slower....those saws are so light duty with pitiful upper blade guide mechanism.
