Moving, Storing and moving again 35 tons worth of shop - Ideas?

I am planning on moving to a new home about 20 miles away. I don't have the property yet and I may not until after I sell my current home. The problem is that my shop is in a walk out basement and must be moved before I put the house on the market. In effect I have to move shop twice with a period of storage in between of unknown duration.

I don't want to scrap much if anything and I can't afford to have the shop moved by professional riggers. I am thinking of selling some of the machines to keep the load down to under 44 tons so it can be shipped in two semi loads. A rented 8K shooting boom fork truck will handle the loading chores.

I'm wrestling with how to most economically move and store about 30-35 tons worth of shop equipment.

There seem to be two options for loads of this size: 1) Shipping containers 2)Semi trailer dry vans.

I would prefer not to unload for intermediate storage - that's a lot of time and work. If possible I'd like to load it, store the loaded shipping boxes or semi-vans and then unload at the end.

Does anyone know of a service that will store loaded shipping containers for some period of months.

Alternatively, what is involved with owning semi-trailers? Not the full truck, but the trailer section. I can find some for sale in decent condition for about $6-7,000, but that can't be as simple as owning a car. What sort of licences and regs are there around trailers like this? This will all be within the state of Virginia - no interstate trips for this load.


Or what other options are there that I haven't thought of?


Be glad to hear any thoughts or comments.

Shipping containers are pretty reasonable right now.

I would buy an extra one, set your machines inside, bolt them down,
in a layout so you can still use them.

If you stuff the thing full of iron, you'll easily exceed the weight limit
IIRC 20 tons.

So you can continue to use your machines during the move.

Never done this myself, but a friend had good luck with PODS (Portable On Demand Storage) for household goods. They drop a container at your location. You load and they then pick up and store if necessary. It went well for him. I doubt the regular residential service would work for machine tools, but they have a business version. No idea of the costs or restrictions.

PODS for Business | PODS

mpmar_bt said:

Alternatively, what is involved with owning semi-trailers? Not the full truck, but the trailer section.

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-Can't say for Virginia, but up here in Alaska, a few years back I bought a 40-foot van for $2500. Not to move, just for the extra enclosed storage, but it was $1,500 to $2,000 cheaper than a 40-foot connex was going for.

Anyway, when I got it I got a title with it, and when that was transferred, I got a sort of commercial tag for the plates, that are effectively permanent. Unlike a car tag that has to be renewed each year, the new van tags simply register that plate to the new owner. Whole process cost about $150, as I recall, and worked at the DMV just like swapping a car title.

When I bought it, I have a buddy with a heavy construction company, he just brought his truck over, hooked it up, had to fiddle with the trailer brakes a bit as they'd been sitting a while, and simply drove it to my place. If you don't have somebody like that, you'll likely have to hire a truck and driver- I couldn't even guess what that might cost you, but I doubt it'd be a fortune for a 20-mile drive, especially if you can work with the trucking company to do it during a slack period.

Doc.

there are storage companies that drop "containers" for you to load, that they pick up and store, but your load will exceed the intended maximum for sure.

the question seems to be trailer, or shipping container.

that depends on a few things, primarily local stuff, such as the relative cost and availability of the units in your area, state taxes and registration on trailers, (check with state DOT). and where you can store them.

It's usually fairly easy to find a place to store a trailer, but from the experience of myself and friends, they get broken into when on someones side lot. (sure you can park it there..).

near the coasts, dry box shipping containers are plentiful, but as you are only going 20 miles, you could use trailers that are no longer serviceable for long distance hauls, so could be picked up for cheap. (a lot less than 6k, I'd think)

whether you can/intend to use the containers for storage on your new property is another factor.

as for the storage, try to find a bonded storage lot with 24 hr guards, but don't leave it there for long, it will add up.

Raise the asking price of your property by $5K. Offer buyers a $5K discount if they give you 60 days to move the stuff out after the sale.
Talk to your R.E. agent about it. They've likely seen this before.
In real estate, especially, everything is negotiable .........Bob

I've looked into dry vans before and decided not to go that route. Serviceable, water tight dry vans have gotten scarce and more expensive. Around here I would budget $6,000 and 40 hours each. Newer trailers have translucent roofs that simply aren't as robust as older metal roofs, and the older metal roofs weren't very robust either. Robust costs weight, weight costs money and reduces cargo capacity.

The plate is no big deal, but you own 8 more tires and brakes, as well as the other maintenance issues with heavy trucks. And if your trucker would get stopped by your local DOT there is no exemption for low mileage trailers. Cops and their political minders look at heavy trucks as rolling cash registers.

Cargo containers would be my choice between the two, but I have no suggestions as to storing them. But whatever you decide, be prepared for the storage time to be 3 times what you expect. Don't allow yourself to become "desperate" in a real estate transaction. The counterparty agent in a transaction can smell "desperate" at 20 paces and that situation will require 5 or more digits of additional funds to satisfy.

Your best bet is to work the real estate deal to move after closing. Moving once is the best bet. Failing that, many riggers have the ability to store the things they move while you wait for your new shop to be ready. If you could get a shipping container and put your stuff in that, securely, then have them come get it, store it, and then deliver it to the new place then you would be good.

My advice is simple....don't move. 20 miles isn't worth it. If ti's your wife making you move, then make her support you getting commercial space.

I'm sick of moving. I've been doing it for 2 years now. I've grown in to the new space, but haven't moved out of the old one yet.

If you have two containers park them door to door so no one can get inside without cutting the wall open. Of course then you could not use your tools without a winch to pull them apart. Heck weld the doors shut
Bill D

So often this forum just leaves me in total disbelief. You packed 44+ tons of god knows what into a walk out basement? Obviously these are not money makers since you're going to moth ball them for months.

I don't know your age, but how much of this stuff do you really need? I have 3000 ft of commercial space turning a profit with half that much weight.

ewlsey said:

So often this forum just leaves me in total disbelief. You packed 44+ tons of god knows what into a walk out basement?

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-He only has a 9" Southbend and a Bridgeport. The rest is 2-1/2 million carbide inserts "liberated" from a previous employer.

The guards at the gate never seemed to notice his lunchbox, despite the fact it was the size of a steamer trunk, and that he had to take it out to his car each evening with a forklift.



Doc.

I've used PODS brand containers before. Don't use them unless its for furniture or household items. Precious few tiedown points, lightweight wood construction internally, no weight capacity discussion at all on their site.

ABF has small, secure rugged versions, as do some moving and storage companies. The moving and storage ones I've seen are pulled onto a flatbed. These two options are constructed much like straight truck bodies. Obviously, the moving and storage ones are pretty good for moving, and they'll store 'em, too. Just costs money.

You need a buddy with a empty pole barn with power. Load up, set them in the barn, open/close at will regardless of weather, use if needed. Pull up stakes and cart to new place when ready. Maybe exchange empty container in lieu of rent? (One less to sell.) Use 20' containers because they're more marketable and easier to transport. They can be rented too, of course.

ewlsey said:

....

I don't know your age, but how much of this stuff do you really need? I have 3000 ft of commercial space turning a profit with half that much weight.

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Age: Old enough to know better; young enough (or crazy enough) to do it anyway

It depends on how you define the word "need". Does one really need a 10EE, a Rivett 1020 and a Hendey T&G all at the same time? Why yes, yes I do. Which adds up to 1/8th of the mass right there.

When my X moved out she couldn't use PODS because the weight capacity was too light. I believe it was something like 6 or 8K per pod.

I do like the suggestion regarding heavy duty industrial version. I'll look into it and see.

Shipping containers seem ideal because they would be at ground level and the machines can be bolted down with additional bracing welded in wherever needed. And yes the doors would definitely be welded shut. The problem with them is the loading. I haven't seen anything out there that can deal with a fully loaded 40' can other than a crane.

Use 20-footers instead. Slides right up on a decent rollback.
The guy down the street is loading his garage out into one of the moving/storage ones. I'll post a pic later today.

Box, ring for pulling onto flatbed, forklift pockets (including photobomb by pooch with goofy sweater), door...

It is all about money

you don't 'want' to do things, but do not twist your decision making to such an extent that you become illogical

how much is storage space per month?

not the U store places but a commercial space

do the math, it may be more reasonable to drag all your stuff to the storage space, pay for several months storage and do it again when you are done.

The 'I don't want tos' are unimportant, do the most financial prudent thing.

In 1987 I sold my farm in New Jersey and bought a place in West Virginia, with no buildings. I bought a 1968 road-tractor and nine semi-trailers to move my stuff (200 tons?) and store it until I got buildings up. Although I have not shopped for many lately, old semi-trailers are cheap in areas with zoning and growth, because people can't store them. As soon as they get grubby or dented, commercial haulers do not want them any more because they become cop-magnets. I got at least two for free because I was able to haul them away. Paid the most ($1500 IIRC) for a nice stainless steel reefer with a generator under the belly, because the landing gear was damaged.

In the last few years I have bought old wood-chip trailers with good roofs and iffy floors for $1200 ea, here in WV.

Out of several decent old trailers, you will probably end up with enough usable tires to carry one for 20 miles....remove and carry them back if needed for your next trailer. Watch out for 20"or R-22.5 versus 22 or R-24.5", Budd wheels versus Dayton

As long as you do not have zoning or other illegal crap in the area you are moving to, (if you do, you need to move farther), it should cost nothing to park them. For the actual move, trailer license plates are pretty cheap, you can legally through Motor Vehicle (or if you prefer, illegally) transfer the plate from one trailer to the next, and the trailer itself needs no insurance, as it is covered by the tractor's policy. Many owner-operator truckers would be happy to drag your trailer 20 miles, as long as it is not along a heavily-policed route, at night or on weekend, for small money.

No unwatched storage is secure.

I still run 21" lathe, 10" lathe, horizontal mill, drill press, and a few other things inside the trailers I bolted them down in 30 years ago.

Note, re bolting down, depending on the weight and CG of the machine, I used BIG washers or even hook-bolts around the crossmembers to secure my machines

IMO, "shipping containers" are overpriced.

If I had plates on my old road-tractor, I'd haul for you.

I see many old semi trailers around here (OH) conspicuously marked "Tool Shed". Does that exempt them from more stringent inspections or licensing that over-the-road trailers are required to have? I think the OP could make a case it's a tool shed if he opens it up and it has tools in it... As long as he's 'building' something at the far end. I suppose it could be something that requires some sort of 'tow truck' license to move. Or get orange triangles and stay below 35.

There is no "cheap" or "easy" or "low mileage" solution for commercial vehicles over 10,000 lbs gross. That's "break it off in your ass" territory and pretty much everyone pays the same.

In my state, you can license a tractor for 80,000 and then the trailers are a flat fee of $15 or something very low. But, trailer plates are part of a "livery", meaning that you can't just license trailers by themselves, they have to grouped with a tractor and that's between $1400 and $2,200, depending on mileage. The trailers also need a current DOT annual inspection, which is not expensive until you have to fix all the stuff that makes you fail the inspection.

Then you need $750,000 of liability insurance, heavy vehicle use tax, DOT number, CDL, medical card, drug testing plan, and if you want to cross state lines, IFTA and apportioned plates.

Possibly you could get a towing company to pull a trailer with no inspection or license, but they usually won't do it unless it's empty.

You have to pay to play on public roads.