Thread: My first lathe: Lodge & Shipley 1610 13 x 54 Powerturn

What you have there is one of the finest lathes ever made, on par with the small Pacemakers. With variable speed drive, it was called the 1408 (about the only machine I lust over, since my shop is full to capacity). Very likely the cause of your leak (if not overfull) is a shot seal. Just got through replacing a few on my Van Norman mill. Bad news is that a badly dried out seal that has been run anyway may have carved a gouge in the shaft... that was the case on my mill. Had to turn down the shaft, make sleeves, TIG weld them on and turn down to original diam. If the gouge isn't too bad, you might can speedi-sleeve.

If this was like my old 1918 L&S, I'd say oil leaks are a way of life, but this is a VERY late model and advanced design. It should leak no more oil than a new Lexus unless overfull or seals failed.

As said above, try to access the problems without pulling the machine all the way down. That looks like original paint. The machine has probably never been apart or repainted. I'd keep it that way if I were you. This is like finding a slightly weathered, but perfectly serviceable 1964 275GTB Ferrari in a barn. Unless you absolutely HAVE to, leave this machine as-is.

Originally Posted by kpotter

No training lathe for you, right to the big guns from the get go. You are not going to know how good you have it, you are supposed to buy a pile of crap import and then a beat up southbend and finally a real lathe. I have a model x and started with pratt model b. so I went the same path. Nice lathe your kind of screwed now since that is one of the best lathes ever made, nothin to wish for.

I had the same experience with my milling machine. I learned how to machine on a Cincinnati Toolmaster where you stall the spindle long before you will crash the head. Well when I started working in other people's shops where all they had were these dinky Bridgeports I didn't realize that you couldn't push them nearly as hard. Made for quite a bit of embarrassment and 2-3 crashes before it dawned on me that a Bridgeport is no Toolmaster. I can just imagine the first time you go to run someone else's lathe and have a huge crash. Oops sorry I thought that a 1/2"DOC was a piece of cake.

I was running a big 25inch swing L&S at a shop, I was fixing some other machines for them and didnt want to get to crazy with the depth of cut since it wasnt my machine. The owner of the shop comes over and says what the hell are you doing? stop making love to it and take a f.... cut. He steps in and says take a cut like a man, let it know who is in charge while he peals off a whole inch of steel in one pass. I was smitten I wanted to make sweet love to that lathe for the rest of my life. I finally got one and she is comin home with me next week.

Thanks for the trailer info........I lust for one like that to haul my newly acquired 2 ton Still forklift I am restoring. My lathe is also a 1610, but a few years newer. Like I said, I think it is closer to 10k lbs than 8k. My lathe has a horsepower meter on the front of the headstock and on the heaviest cut I ever made, it barely moved. It will handle a 1/2" DOC no problem, although as a rule I limit myself to 3/8" DOC. As also stated, vibration is not an issue, however I also use 1/2" steel plate pads on the mounts to spread the load. You have the original paint on the machine. I had to modify the oil filter to a more modern automotive one, because I couldn't source replacement filters.

A CAUTIONARY STORY. I second any advice to avoid dismantling the headstock or any other major assembly unless absolutely necessary. How do I know this? In 1984 when I was young and very inexperienced with machine tools I bought a very rare lathe (in England), wired it up, ran it, thought the headstock was running hot- it wasn't with hindsight, and in no time at all I had the spindle and bearings out. They are still out in 2012- Ive attempted to re-assemble it a few times but never 100% successfully. This was a much simpler and smaller lathe than your Powerturn. I cannot bring myself to scrap it so it is just lying there. It is quite possible I wil have to retire before I can get to work on it.

I'll add to the "lathe lust", that was made in my home town (Cincinnati), also the home of the also highly lusted after American Pacemakers, some day I hope to own one of those but at this point its looking like its going to take a lottery hit to make that happen.

Parts of the Lodge & Shipley factory are still there but of course it was turned into some dippy mall that makes me want to puke on my shoes when I see it.

Take good care of that thing-

Paul T.
Valve and Chassis Spring Tester Home Page - Power Technology Valve and Chassis Spring Tools

I love heavyweight lathes and mills, the post war American stuff is fantastic as with a lot of the Jap CNC stuff from the early 80's. When you have these machines you don't need a thousand different tools to do whatever job you find yourself making because you have the machinist's wet dream at your disposal- RIGIDITY!

The biggest problem is holding onto the parts!

Enjoy that L&S! I wish I'd bought a real lathe right out of the gate. You can sure dick around with a lot without one of these things.

Originally Posted by Garwood

. tools to do whatever job you find yourself making because you have the machinist's wet dream at your disposal- RIGIDITY!

Surely not a dream restricted to machinists, that. Suspect the funny-looking blue pills are more portable, though.

The biggest problem is holding onto the parts!

Keepin' my own counsel for a change on how best to manage THAT bite.. er...'bit'...

Bill

I would like to hear what the oil level is.

I was just curious about how L&S achieves variable speed on this lathe. I have been working on a EE1000 and after watching how the hydraulics/electrics work on it made me wonder if any other company tried something similar?

Dale Nelson

Originally Posted by swellwelder

I was just curious about how L&S achieves variable speed on this lathe. I have been working on a EE1000 and after watching how the hydraulics/electrics work on it made me wonder if any other company tried something similar?

Dale Nelson

It has 24 speeds you select

The gear shift method on this machine is neat. At the bottom of the headstock face there is a rotary select dial indexed by work diameter. RPM is printed on the bottom of the display and on the rotary drum above the RPM, the cutting speed is indicated. This is very handy. In the center of the headstock face is another rotary dial where the display window shows RPM and has 24 positions. This 24 position knob rotates a drum covering a lamp which has a series of indexed holes drilled in it. These holes have clear plastic bars glued to them. There are 4 sets of these clear acrylic bars that lead to indicators at each of the 4 gear select levers which actually select your spindle speed and by selecting your speed choice with the speed dial, the appropriate indicator at each lever illuminates at the correct position for the color coded lever, making spindle speed changes a no brainer. This is probably an example of one of the earliest uses of light pipes. When I received my lathe, this was not working, so I had to disassemble this thing to fix it. This lathe also uses precision ground tool steel ways bolted the cast iron bed as well as a 2 speed tailstock for drilling. This machine was of extreme quality and way ahead of its time.

Okay well im sure that you guys are going to chuckle at my pure green mistakes on this one... I went to take the quick change gearbox off and right when i pulled the front cover about 2 quarts of oil just came flowing out... exactly the amount that i put in. As i was frantically running around looking for stuff that soaks up oil... quickest in this new shop ended up being dirt from a pile outside.... i realized that the oil was seeping into the gauge as i was filling it and when i looked away and thought it had gone down it was still seeping in. Since that Mobil DTE is pretty much clear i couldnt see it in the sight glass and it was there all along i just made a false assumption with the oil in the chip pan. While washing my hands about 5 minutes ago i was thinking of how i am going to have to seal the front cover with some RTV after cleaning all the surfaces upon reassembly and it hit me that was also the problem with the main gearbox... I didnt seal the lid back on i just thought the old gasket would be enough after a quick cleaning. It all clicked as i realized that the oil was indeed coming from behind the electrical panel where the gasket seals the lid near where the clutch is and much oil is slung during operation. I sure am glad you guys on this forum stopped me from going hog wild with the wrenches for dis-assembly! I will have pictures in the next few days as i plan to spend most of the day sunday cleaning her up. Thanks for all of the help so far i am sure that i will need more of it.

Originally Posted by steve-l

This is probably an example of one of the earliest uses of light pipes.

Not sure about the 1920's, but for-sure the 1930's on high-end radio receiver dials. Not to mention Stewart-Warner's changing-colour speedometer needle tip ('38 Packard. Possibly earlier).

But yes - Simple system. Easily kept in good repair. Marvelously helpful.

One wonders why there isn't more of that yet today.

Bill

Originally Posted by steve-l

This lathe also uses precision ground tool steel ways bolted the cast iron bed as well as a 2 speed tailstock for drilling. This machine was of extreme quality and way ahead of its time.

Unfortunately mine does not have the 2 speed tailstock option. My lights do not work either and i was wondering what the trick is to pulling that large cover off. How do you remove the gearshift levers or do they come with the plate and slide off of their mates?

The story of how I found my PT 1610 lathe is interesting. The lathe was originally purchased by the US Army and installed in the basement of the US Army European Printing center in Heidleberg, Germany and used for maintenance purposes. When the printing center closed, this was auctioned by DRMO in place where the successful bidder was responsible for its removal. This had to take place within 5 days after auction closing. The only way out was a freight elevator that was barely large enough to accomodate this machine. The removal was very difficult I was the only bidder. I won this auction for $200. I then spent 3 days with 3 men getting this thing out and craned on to a truck. Upon arrival at my house, I hired a 35 ton crane and had to remove the roof of my shop to install it. It was a very cloudy day with rain predicted. As soon as the lathe was in place, I repaced the roof and 10 minutes after the roof was completed, it rained. I was very fortunate. My end cost with the lathe installed was about $6,000. I don't regret a penny of this cost. This machine cost the Army $84,000 when new.

Are you certain your lathe does not have the 2 speed tailstock? I cannot tell by your photos. Look for a rotary knob on the top of the tailstock behind the crank wheel. Low gear is selected by turning this knob fully counter clockwise while rotating the wheel. Direct drive is selected by rotating the knob fully clockwise. Removing the front panel is tricky. You have to remove the color coded lever centers, they just pop off, but there is no pry point. You just have to play with them being careful not to do damage. Once the plastic centers are off, the rest should be obvious.

Originally Posted by Powerturn

Unfortunately mine does not have the 2 speed tailstock option. My lights do not work either and i was wondering what the trick is to pulling that large cover off. How do you remove the gearshift levers or do they come with the plate and slide off of their mates?

Originally Posted by Powerturn

Unfortunately mine does not have the 2 speed tailstock option.

It was an option? I thought 2 speed was standard on these? Does the tailstock quill feed with a rack or a screw?

On another point, I would really appreciate a photo of the chuck crane you have. I don't have one and changing the chuck is a real chore without one. Please photograph the mount as well. If you do not have a precison level, you will need one shortly. Often you will see the Starrett 15" model on eBay. Do you have a taper attachment on your machine?

pretty cool Lathe ....well if you find that you have some wear on ways (close to the headstock) these are special ways and can be unbolted and replaced..... but i thought well why cant you just turn them 180 and shim the tail stock?! hmmmmm ya...real cool

Lawrence