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Another Knurling question - Tool Selection

John Madarasz

Stainless
Joined
Jan 1, 2007
Location
Exton, PA.
I need to select the proper tool for a small knurling operation...Having read previous thread and printed Dorian info, searched and studied my books I'm still at a loss for the best tool to purchase. I've never knurled before.

2 HP 12" swing manual lathe

I want to knurl a medium pitch diamond pattern 5" long on the end of a 1.125" cold rolled mild steel bar. This is for a hand grip on a Dake 3A ratchet arbor press handle. I can turn the dia of the bar to size. Which is better for a grip surface like this, male or female diamond pattern?

Could anyone help me pick a toolholder and tool to do this from this page ( or someplace better)?

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=233&PMCTLG=00

Thanks for any help, and recommendations.
 
John;

Bought a scissors type knurler a few years ago, now I don't want to even think about the old pressure type.....Scissors gives a nicer knurl and is easier to use (for me).....

Either # 505-4518 or 505-4515, depending how much $$$ you want to spend.....

Female pattern probably easier on the hands.....

Jim
 
Last edited:
Don't overknurl

I have the import and it is quite tricky to use. As you mentioned sloppy and difficult to achieve a crisp looking knurl. The Aloris knurl looks like it would do a decent job, but is big bucks. I have a plan to build one but this keeps getting further on down the list. Damn customers, all they know is "Where's my parts, where's my parts." My title is Don't overknurl. Be satisfied with a 75 or 80 per cent depth of knurl, as a sharp knurl is really hard on the hands. Some call me Carlos.
 
I have the Aloris knurling tool also, and I have had one problem with it: galling between the knurl and the pins. The pins that the knurls mount on are hardened, so you have hardened pins with hardened knurls. The next time I use it I plan on replacing the pins with unhardened drill rod. Sure the pins will wear, but I won't end up having to disassemble/reassemble the knurling tool mid-job, and have a job ruined because the knurl stopped turning. Probably using some anti-seize lubricant would help; I generally just oil at the side of each knurl when I start a job.

-Dave
 
I am not sure about the quality of the Eagle knurling tool, but I bought the imported version and I wasn't too impressed. The shank was made out of a casting that was not finnish machined at all unless you count the hole for the pivot bolt which was drilled at an angle. The hole through the arms was also drilled at and angle and the bolt, which was not a shoulder bolt was just barely long enough to get the nut on. Another problem is there is very little material around the pins for the knurls and I have no idea how to remove the pins to change the knurls. They are probably pressed in.

I ended up making a new shank from steel bar stock and remachining the arms with a new hole reamed to fit a pivot bolt that I made with a shoulder.

If I were to do it again and I had the time I would make my own from scratch out of steel plate, with a nice large diameter fine thread adjusting screw and removable pins for the knurls made out of carbide and held in with set screws. Or buy an Aloris which is what I eventually did.
 
I bought the scissor type import from Enco at the bottom of the page, the small one. The pivot was sloppy as has already been discussed but after I bored a straight hole and made a replacement pin it has worked fine with no problems. I have knurled a bunch of carbon and stainless steel with good results.

Reggie
 
I used a scissor knurling tool,the directions said COOLANT ON BOTH WHEELS,lack of lube was the most common issue they cleared up for their customors is what the knurling tool maker said. It worked very well,way better than I expected.I pretty much followed the directions supplied with tool.it was made in America,so it cost 3 times the cheap,but worth ten times the cheap.
respect
GW
 
I use Accu-Trak knurling tools in the cnc's. Made in USA with support from a guy who speaks my language.... novel concept eh?. I always have better luck knurling a little faster than most recomend.
 
I have a suggestion for smallish knurls. Watch ebay (or whatever) for the Boyar Shultz and similar scissor knurls used for turrets and screw machines. I picked up a few for near nothing, the knurling wheels on them would have cost more than I paid. These are easily adapted to mount on a tool post and VASTLY superior to the crap scissors from Enco. I also happen to have a set of those that I use on stuff too large for the little ones, but the little ones are oh so much nicer for small parts, and I've got 3 of them with different wheels mounted at any given time, ready to go. I think my total investment in the 3 is less than $40, maybe less than $30. And one came with several "new" knurls.
 








 
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