What's new
What's new

Narrow fan belt for Sears drill press

Some old Grainger drill presses (mine included) used a similar belt. This press still works well with the original belt (30+ yrs. old w/6 inch stroke) If memory serves it was made by Gates. Try an industrial supplier or Grainger.
 
Would the Sears part number help? I can probably find the manual for my Craftsman DP that uses the same (or similar) belt.

-------------------
Barry Milton
 
Gates still sells them. The 8 speed Sears drill press that uses them is a dandy and has a long quill travel. I wish I could find one in good shape.

This is not a weenie belt but a strong high tech 60 degree included angle siped V belt. Check wout your local belt supplier. Take the old belt for a sample with a stout string representing the length needed over the pulleys.
 
i got mine in 1977 from sears they came without a motor. i bought new belts just in case. i was cleaning out cabinet thursday and found new belt still in package with part number on it. i have only used mine for pilot holes still looks like new. jon
 
I replaced mine about two months ago. The local Sears parts/repair store had them in stock. It was 10 bucks and change.

Lee
 
"The 8 speed Sears drill press that uses them is a dandy and has a long quill travel. I wish I could find one in good shape."

I agree. Mine has taken all manner of abuse and performed flawlessly for 24 years.

The one mod I made was the addition of a footswitch in parallel with the one on the head. That really makes it much easier to use.


Roger
 
The 8 speed Sears drill press that uses them is a dandy and has a long quill travel.
I certainly agree with you, Forrest :D

These were made IIRC by Atlas. Mine was purchased new in 1982 or 1983. A friend had an Atlas catalog that showed an identical model. It continues to amaze me that the tiny belt will drive a 1" twist drill through 1" plate.

The mill gets much more use, but there are jobs that are much more easily done on that drill. Mine has the heavy T-slot table. A 4" milling vise does most workholding.

Sears sold a crank & chain table lifter. It seemed expensive at the time but turned out to be money well spent.

---------------------
Barry Milton
 
The number on my belt looks to be 5MR1150, I got mine in 1981 and every bearing in it sounded like they had been pounded in by the outside race, they howled, as did the spindle pulley on 8000 rpm. I immediately replaced all the bearings and balanced the pulley. I've done absolutely nothing to it since. It the skinny belt does slip with big bits though.
 
I bought mine new in 1976. The belt drive still works well, but the quill retract is getting stiff. I have lost the original manual, and have to get another from Sears,as there is no way I am going to tinker with that big spring loaded retract mechanism without a manual.

Rest of the drill press has worked fine. The 8 speed design is rather elegant works well for me. I have used the 8000 rpm speed on numerous occasions, even using the drill press running at 8000 rpm as a wood shaper.

Thermo1

Thermo1
 
One other point. For general use, I use the Jacobs chuck that came with it. For more pecision, I replace the Jacobs chuck with a Albrecht style (made by Jacobs) that fits the #33 Jacobs taper on the spinde. Improves the accuracy and reduces drill runout a bit.

A good chuck seems to improve the accuracy of even this mid priced drill press.

Thermo1
 
I can't ever recall using anything but the lowest three speeds. What's the point of of all the higher speeds? (Especially the really high speeds)

My drillpress is the "Commercial" version with double slotted table and provision for a tilting table on the backside.

Great machine with one major flaw. No table lift.

Bought new around 1976 with one spare belt which is still in it's package.
 
Thermo1,

The way to remove the spindle and unwind the spring is rather elegant in it's simplicity, grab the quill feed handle and draw it away from the body of the machine, the quill will drop right out in your left hand if you first remove the depth limit off the rod. Then just let the spring unwind carefully. Completely unwound I think the Spring unhooks itself from the casting. This is also the way to set the handles just where you want them, drawing it out and re indexing the gear.
 
The Millrite mill we've got in the shop uses one of those narrow belts. My dad bought the mill new in '69 or '70 and the belt's never been replaced. Probably the most durable V-belt I've ever seen.
 








 
Back
Top