Need help with Rivett 1020F stop rod switch gear

ztarum · Jan 3, 2017

Hi all. I have had a Rivett 1020F for a number of years, but the switch mechanism related to the carriage/spindle motor stop rod, located at the bottom right hand end of the bed under the lathe name plate, was missing when I purchases the machine.

Could anyone help me by posting a picture of the mechanism and switch under the lathe name plate cover? I would like to reproduce the parts to restore that function to my machine. Any help appreciated.

traditional-tools · Jan 4, 2017

I can look at mine tomorrow evening possibly.

As I remember, the switch wires go to the light box, and then into the electrical cabinet.

I know that some models didn't have the stop switch, but I had thought they put the switch in and just didn't wire it. You should check, you might have the switch under the plate.

There are two switches, another at the headstock end where the rod goes into the base.

BTW, might be better for you to post in the Monarch Forum, The Rivett 1020/1030/S/F is welcomed in that forum.

ztarum · Jan 4, 2017

Thanks. Just for clarification, my machine is wired for the stop. The wires are present under the cover and function like they should when I manually I connect and disconnect the wires. When I purchased my machine the entire stop rod was missing. I was able to purchase those parts, so at this point I have everything I need except the switch, switch mount, and whatever actuation device that mounts to the end of the stop rod (under the cover plate) the engages the switch. That's why I'm looking for pictures. I'm sure I could come up with my own arrangement, but no need to reinvent the wheel if I can just copy what was there originally. Hope that helps.

43monarch · Jan 4, 2017

As far as I can tell they had two styles,one has a hole all the way thru the tail housing that is the bearing for a set of cams that actuate the microswitchs for each direction.The cams are a roller arrangement for each direction.The other has no hole thru the outboard bracket and uses a different style microswitchs that uses a metal strip to make the contact.

43monarch · Jan 4, 2017

Just to be sure we are talking about the electric leadscrew reverse for the the Rivett 10x20 s,f 10x30f.I believe there is a (safety)limit switch in the gearbox where the trip rod goes into the housing.The leadscrew reverse switchgear is in the casting on the tailstock end of the lathe.I am no electrician but how the leadscrew reverse works is that the stop rod is adjusted in the direction towards the chuck where you want the thread to end and the micro switch in the tailstock end housing closes and shuts the lathe off.At this point no further depressing the FORWARD button will start the machine,you cn only depress the REVERSE button at which time the machine will back up the tool to the other preset position to start the threading operation and it trips the contact for REVERSE in the same manner.Press the FORWARD button and the cycle is ready is ready to start again.Have not had a lot of luck posting pictures on this site,hope this helps.

ztarum said:
Thanks. Just for clarification, my machine is wired for the stop. The wires are present under the cover and function like they should when I manually I connect and disconnect the wires. When I purchased my machine the entire stop rod was missing. I was able to purchase those parts, so at this point I have everything I need except the switch, switch mount, and whatever actuation device that mounts to the end of the stop rod (under the cover plate) the engages the switch. That's why I'm looking for pictures. I'm sure I could come up with my own arrangement, but no need to reinvent the wheel if I can just copy what was there originally. Hope that helps.

ztarum · Jan 4, 2017

43monarch said:
Just to be sure we are talking about the electric leadscrew reverse for the the Rivett 10x20 s,f 10x30f.I believe there is a (safety)limit switch in the gearbox where the trip rod goes into the housing.The leadscrew reverse switchgear is in the casting on the tailstock end of the lathe.I am no electrician but how the leadscrew reverse works is that the stop rod is adjusted in the direction towards the chuck where you want the thread to end and the micro switch in the tailstock end housing closes and shuts the lathe off.At this point no further depressing the FORWARD button will start the machine,you cn only depress the REVERSE button at which time the machine will back up the tool to the other preset position to start the threading operation and it trips the contact for REVERSE in the same manner.Press the FORWARD button and the cycle is ready is ready to start again.Have not had a lot of luck posting pictures on this site,hope this helps.

Yep, that's it. You're describing the operation correctly. If posting a photo is a problem I can pm you my email address. Thanks.

ztarum · Jan 4, 2017

43monarch said:
As far as I can tell they had two styles,one has a hole all the way thru the tail housing that is the bearing for a set of cams that actuate the microswitchs for each direction.The cams are a roller arrangement for each direction.The other has no hole thru the outboard bracket and uses a different style microswitchs that uses a metal strip to make the contact.

Mine has a hole through the outboard bracket. There are four wire present. Breaking contact between one set stops and prevents restart of forward operation, while the other pair stops and prevents restart of reverse.

43monarch · Jan 5, 2017

Ztarum, pm your contact info and I'll pull the plate off and get a pic for you tomorrow.anything else you need?

ztarum · Jan 5, 2017

43monarch said:
Ztarum, pm your contact info and I'll pull the plate off and get a pic for you tomorrow.anything else you need?

Make and model of the switches would be useful if you can see what they are, and some measurement of the cam arrangement if it's not too much trouble so I can recreate the same slope/ramp.

43monarch · Jan 5, 2017

The microswitchs on the cam style leadscrew reverse are Honeywell wz2r0181-a2

ztarum said:
Make and model of the switches would be useful if you can see what they are, and some measurement of the cam arrangement if it's not too much trouble so I can recreate the same slope/ramp.

ztarum · Jan 5, 2017

I got the pictures. Thank you very much! That's exactly what I needed.

43monarch · Jan 5, 2017

ztarum said:
I got the pictures. Thank you very much! That's exactly what I needed.

Your very welcome ,I have been in this situation many times trying to figure out an arrangement.Lots of very good help here in the different forums to get a guy out of a jam.

traditional-tools · Jan 6, 2017

ztarum said:
I got the pictures. Thank you very much! That's exactly what I needed.

Thanks Monarch43, saves me the trouble of opening mine and snapping a pic.

ztarum, do you have the proper electrical for your machine ?

I have a few different electrical diagrams around, there's a number of them. Unfortunately I didn't have one in the electrical cabinet pocket, but was eventually able to figure mine out.

Halcohead · Jan 6, 2017

I'm not sure what photos you saw but this shows the microswitch actuation cams threaded onto the stop rod but removed from the lathe:

Note they used o-rings to seal the microswitch enclosure against contaminants. These o-rings wouldn't be visible in a photo without disassembly but the whole mechanism is well-documented in the part drawings in the manual.

My machine also came without a functioning stop rod. It was pretty straightforward to turn a replacement out of square stock, but note there are also some turned features on the headstock end of the rod (also a small milled slot, if I remember correctly). Rivett used two opposing springs at the headstock end to return the stop rod to neutral after the carriage hit it. There was also a small dog point set screw engaging a slot to keep the stop rod from rotating.

ztarum · Jan 15, 2017

Thanks for the help. It turns out that the rod I purchased off of a parts machine was for the earlier limit switch style, so I had to innovate a little. My rod ends half way through the switch box. As a result I needed to make the cam part as a single piece as it needs to extend the rod itself and incorporate the ramps. It's currently made of delrin so I could turn out the part quickly, but I'll go back at some point and make a steel one.

The only issue I still need to address is my rod is free to rotate. If anyone has pictures of the dog screw and slot arrangement it would be really helpful.

A picture of my new set-up is attached.

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