Need some advice on replacing oil seals on Colchester Chipmaster lathe

Mikel Levy · Dec 16, 2017

So I need to replace the oil seals on the clutch shaft of my Chippie, but I'm a little apprehensive and would like to know what I'm getting into and any pitfalls to avoid. I have not been able to find any useful information on the internet regarding the replacement procedure. Looking at the exploded view of the clutch shaft assembly in the lathe user manual, I'm not even sure why two oil seals are necessary, when it seems that one would do the trick. Anyway, I have the new oil seals and am ready to start taking things apart. Any guidance on this would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

tdmidget · Dec 16, 2017

In the drawing they do not appear the same. What do you have?

Mikel Levy · Dec 16, 2017

tdmidget said:
In the drawing they do not appear the same. What do you have?

I have both seals.
--Mike

rklopp · Dec 16, 2017

I replaced the seals in mine. I didn't take any notes, and I don't recall it being especially challenging except for needing a rather stout retaining ring pliers with extra-deep reach into a cavity. I don't recall whether that would have been needed just to change the seals, because I did a deep dive and fully disassembled the headstock to bits. I had to clean up one of the gearbox shaft journals and make a new bushing, as that (plain) bearing was all wallowed out. The big ball bearing behind the clutch on mine has quite the growl when the clutch is disengaged.

tdmidget · Dec 16, 2017

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Tyrone Shoelaces · Dec 17, 2017

tdmidget said:

Great book and film. I use that quote a lot with apprentices and occasionally with my wife.

Knocking them out is usually easy enough. Hammer and screwdriver. I usually tapped the new one back in by placing a piece of flat soft wood over the top of the seals and hitting the wood lightly with a hammer. Obviously that's with the housing or whatever the seal is in removed and out on the bench. If you need to slide the seal and housing back onto a shaft that has a step on it cut some thin shim steel the same circumference as the shaft and use that as a guide. Be sure to deburr the shim really thoroughly so it doesn't scratch the seal lip.

Regards Tyrone.

Richard King · Dec 17, 2017

Many times 2 seals face opposite direction, one to keep the dirt out and one to keep the oil or grease it. I can't see your print well enough to see to give you a definite answer. Now they make 2 way seals but back in the old days they used 2 or 3 depending in the circumstance. I also prefer to buy a Garlock type seal that has 2 metal sides over some Chicago Rawhide seals only have one metal side.

Bill D · Dec 17, 2017

Before you take the lathe too far apart use the new seals as a gauge and make a seal driver for the install. just a simple tube with a flat face. OD a little smaller then the seal. ID a little bigger then a the shaft.
If it is too late use a deep socket or a piece of pipe. I have used PVC pipe or pvc couplings for bigger bearings.
Bill D

Mikel Levy · Dec 17, 2017

Richard King said:
Many times 2 seals face opposite direction, one to keep the dirt out and one to keep the oil or grease it. I can't see your print well enough to see to give you a definite answer. Now they make 2 way seals but back in the old days they used 2 or 3 depending in the circumstance. I also prefer to buy a Garlock type seal that has 2 metal sides over some Chicago Rawhide seals only have one metal side.

Thank you, good point, which brings up a related issue--the new seals are asymmetrical, so I am assuming that the tapered sealing surface points to the volume being contained. Can you tell that I've never done this before?

--Mike

Mikel Levy · Dec 17, 2017

Bill D said:
Before you take the lathe too far apart use the new seals as a gauge and make a seal driver for the install. just a simple tube with a flat face. OD a little smaller then the seal. ID a little bigger then a the shaft.
If it is too late use a deep socket or a piece of pipe. I have used PVC pipe or pvc couplings for bigger bearings.
Bill D

Good idea, thanks. Is it advisable to pre-lubricate the seal with the oil it will be containing, or would silicone grease be a better option?
--Mike

Richard King · Dec 17, 2017

I found this one and several others: Seals types 1- Oil seal and labyrinth - YouTube

Bill D · Dec 17, 2017

Does not apply here but I will throw it out as it may fit if he digs deeper. When I replace a ball bearing I save the old one. I use the old inner and outer races to make drivers. Grind a little off the outer diameter. Anneal and drill/ream the inner bore a hair over size. This is easy and no need to measure since you know it fit before so a little metal off and it will be a slip fit.
Bill

Mikel Levy · Dec 17, 2017

Stupid question: how to access the oil seals?

So I've made the assumption that the oil seals are accessed by removing the clutch and pulley components starting from the exposed end of the clutch/pulley shaft. However, after removing the end nut and three hex screws, it appears that the disk with the three countersunk holes (please see attached photo) is a press fit onto the shaft. I don't know why such a close fit would be necessary for this component, and before I attack it with my gear puller I wonder if I'm going about this in entirely the wrong way (maybe I need to remove the clutch shift lever assembly on the front of the machine first)? Can anyone who has had this assembly apart point this dummy in the right direction?

Mike

rklopp · Dec 17, 2017

It should not be a press fit. How about accessing the opposite end of the clutch/brake rod and undoing the nut there? It’s under a cover below and behind the spindle.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mikel Levy · Dec 18, 2017

rklopp said:
It should not be a press fit. How about accessing the opposite end of the clutch/brake rod and undoing the nut there? It’s under a cover below and behind the spindle.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you mean the cover plate I've pointed to in the photo? Is that the usual point of access? Will I be needing to press the pulley bearing off the shaft? Thanks for any pointers you can give me.
--Mike

rklopp · Dec 18, 2017

Yes, that cover. The brake, such as it is, is behind it, as is the opposite end of the clutch rod. Do you have the manual? If not, see here.

Mikel Levy · Dec 18, 2017

rklopp said:
Yes, that cover. The brake, such as it is, is behind it, as is the opposite end of the clutch rod. Do you have the manual? If not, see here.

Yes, thanks, I do have that manual and two others (one is in French), but of course other than the exploded-view drawings they are of little use in servicing the machine.
--Mike

Humblelathe · Jul 15, 2018

Hi Mike Levy,
How did you get on with you Chipmaster clutch rod seals?
Could you tell us from where did you bought the new seals and approximately how they look like?
I have a Chippie as well, and when I took it apart the two groves inside the spindle had 2 o rings, probably someone installed them not knowing what to install.
Thanks.

pierrepnod · Sep 16, 2018

Do you mean the two small o-rings which seal the rod?. If so, they are shown in the exploded diagram as : 1125 o-rings - 2 and in the parts list as : 26-945 Oilring - Pioneer P.O. 05003707 0.364" I/D x 0.070" thick

It wasn't until I read this thread that I found about about toothed pulley drive to the clutch. My chippie must be older, as it has a double V-belt sheave. Anybody know if they are interchangeable?

Pierre

Mikel Levy · Oct 6, 2018

Humblelathe said:
Hi Mike Levy,
How did you get on with you Chipmaster clutch rod seals?
Could you tell us from where did you bought the new seals and approximately how they look like?
I have a Chippie as well, and when I took it apart the two groves inside the spindle had 2 o rings, probably someone installed them not knowing what to install.
Thanks.

Sorry for the late reply, I have not been on this forum for a while. Pierrepnod is correct. The clutch/brake rod is sealed with two o-rings as he describes and as you have seen. They should be easily available from any o-ring supplier. If you don't have a manual for your machine, you may find one here >>> Chipmaster Manual 1 of 6.

Mike

Need some advice on replacing oil seals on Colchester Chipmaster lathe

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