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Machine Gearbox Shaft Disconnect Ideas?

Scjarena

Plastic
Joined
Jan 10, 2017
I’m looking for any advice or ideas on how to make a disconnect from a gearbox to a shaft. See picture. Machine has 10hp gear box which needs to drive a 3in diameter shaft on left which carries a heavy reel with cable. Shaft and reel is removable, but we need it to engage to the gearbox. Thought about having a hollow shaft type of gearbox which has a keyed shaft which can slide in and out to engage the coupler with the pins. If I could machine splines, I would do something different. Any ideas would be appreciated
s2.jpg
 
Older Garwood winches had a two jaw dog clutch machined into the end of the drum,with a similar dogclutch sliding in opposed keyways with keys on the shaft...Worked with a fork fitted with a detent.The dogs are undercut about 3 to 5 deg,so no chance of jumping out of mesh.
 
Sliding shift collars are likely a PITA to keep clean enough to operate out in the open. And you don't want to be sliding a shaft in and out of a hollow shaft gearbox, they are not designed for that, again dirt is your enemy.

If you seldom need to disconnect and are prepared to shut down and do it manually, then you could use a standard commercial chain coupling, or a face to face shear pin hub which might actually protect something in the case of an overload.

I think you'd be better served with an over-center locking clutch, often a multidisk clutch. A bit more expensive but you've got something that is proven to work. But it doesn't provide any safety.

What is beneath that red part? Doesn't seem to have enough beef to be a real bearing of a usual sort?
 
PTO shaft for a small tractor could be made to fit. what rpm and torque?
Maybe adapt a motorcycle clutch.
If you have electricity use an electric clutch.
Belt drive with centrifugal clutch
Bill D
 
I have made a few wire winders in the past. The pto shaft works great. It simplifies alignment of the spool, has a shear bolt for overload protection, have available shielding, and is locally available.
 
Depending on how frequently this gets used, I would put the gearbox on a locking slide, and use a 3 jaw coupler to engage everything.
5+8++L-050+Jaw+Coupling+Half_L.jpg


Also, I would not advise using your coupler arrangement without some padding in between or less backlash. Spools can have a lot of inertia, and at best can sound annoying from the clanking at the coupler, and at worst can damage the gearbox by allowing the motor to stop on its own then having the spool slam into it. It may not be a huge deal in this application, but it should be considered.
 
Most of the large spool winders I see use eddy current clutches, it allows them to fully engage/disengage, keep a set tension on wire/cable, and speed control. I do get them from time to time, but currently have none.
 
Thanks for the input so far. I’ve thought about the chain couples, but they want to be able to quickly remove the reel and shaft from the machine. I was hoping to keep the gear motor mounted rigidly to the frame which is the reason I’m looking for some kind of dog clutch or quick disconnect. I’ve thought about tractor PTO shaft parts also, but not sure if the standard size is big enough to take the torque. I don’t know if I like the idea of allowing the shaft to slide in and out of the hollow gear shaft. Environment is clean where this machine is, so I’m not worried about dirt. Machine is run maybe only one day out of the week average. Other ideas is to make the whole gear box slide or pivot in and out to engage a dog clutch.

What is beneath that red part? Doesn't seem to have enough beef to be a real bearing of a usual sort?
Those are custom built with smith roller bearings, the red thing is a safety strap.
 
At a now defunct Deere foundry ladles were used a double slider coupling. It allowed the ladle to drop into the hanger and connect to the tilting gearbox. The flange on the gearbox had a horizontal slot. A slider block fit into that slot. The block was retained by a bolt in a slotted hole so it was free to slide but not fall out. The flange on the ladle had a vertical slot that mated with the slider block. The ladle just dropped into the hanger from and was supported by its separate bearings. I believe the ladle/carrier were built by Whiting.

Horizontal and vertical directions refer to the ladle being in the upright isition.
 
what you have drawn seems very good start. for some improvement options: it appears your set screw would be the way to keep the 2 finger coupling located. I would omit that screw and use a U shaped plastic block slipped between the coupling and the gearbox. pulling out the U would allow sliding the coupling over to disengage.

further, I would not prefer sliding directly on a gearboxes keyed shaft if you think it might probably wear and seize some day. I would put a replaceable extension on it.

hub city farm products catalog has all sorts of keyed and splined stuff and it's all very inexpensive.
Hub City Inc - Standard Products

Hub City 332-376 Shaft Round Adaptor: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Hub City 332-1345 Quick Release Weld-On Adaptor: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 








 
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