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O T Oven Trouble!

M

moonlight machine

Diamond
Joined
Nov 19, 2007
Location
marysville ohio
I made a big mistake 3 years ago. I bought SWIMBO a Frigidaire "Gallery" stove. It is the usual 4 burner with the oven underneath the cook top. It uses natural gas. It is on its 3rd gas valve for the oven. It seems to stick, after you turn on the oven more often than not you need to remove the drawer and lay on the floor so you can tap on the gas valve. 1 or 3 good raps and the oven lights up and holds the temp you select. so now the gas valve is screwed up again. At 76.00 each this is getting old. Ideas anyone?????
 
damp or crap in your gas lines? Im lucky over here, most of my road is on new plastic. Across towns on old iron and they get bits - moisture causing problems now and then.
 
Take the old valve apart. Look inside for corrosion, dirt etc.
This will help to prove that theory.

Do not re-assemble and reuse that valve!!!!!! (disclaimer)
 
Ok, solves that.

Standard looking combination valve or something else?

Does it have a solenoid on the gas valve? Voltage 120?

Does it have electronic spark ignition?

Does it have hot surface ignition?

If so, the manuf may have wired the hot surface ignitor in series with the gas valve. The ignitor pulls a specific amp draw, this in turn heats a strip inside the gas valve opening it up. Simple, but if the ignitor drops amps the gas valve gets very lazy.

Picture of a gas valve?
 
Look for about 3.3 amps on the hot surface.(average for most)

Much less than 3.0 is iffy.

While you are in there verify decent wire terminal connections and make sure the factory dude didn't crimp the insulation.

Andy
 
But if replacing the valve makes it work then the ignitor is good. Or maybe the new valve is cleaner and can open on less current.
Sounds like it sticks closed after it has sat for some time and is cold. But then it cycles open and closed for that use of the oven. That sounds liike something is sticking shut. I would make sure there is a drip leg on the supply to the stove. At least bend the flex connector so the gas goes up to the valve.
maybe clean the sticking valve with rubbing alchol while you cycle it open and closed electricity. Not sure what volts they run?
Bill D.
 
I had a commercial Vulcan brand six burner range that I bought as a one owner machine. It was great 'cept the oven control did not work. It seema they only used the front corner burners full ON all day to boil pasta water. That cooked the oven control and setup the valve grease. I put in a new valve assy. and used it with no further trouble for 30 + years. End of my story.

Examine placement of the valve and look for excess heat. Like maybe a heat shield is missing or misplaced. Call the Mfr. HOT line. Most are helpful and open 24/7...

my 2 bucks
 
Is your gas supply LP or natural?

Does the supply line leading to your oven have a regulator installed? Is the pressure correct?

How long does the new valve last before problems occur?

When the problem does occur, does the gas valve work correctly for the completion of bake cycle once you rapped on the valve once or twice?

Will the gas valve operate correctly for a few days or weeks at time before problems occur or has the issue started everytime you try to heat the oven?

Although the gas valve itself came supply with a union fitting already installed, has anyone use tape for sealing connections instead of pipe dope anywhere in the line fittings leading to the oven?

Is the voltage readings AT THE gas valve correct? Any noticable voltage drops when the gas valve calls to open?


I
 
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