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Single flute countersink with 1/4" hex drive?
- Thread starter Garwood
- Start date
- Replies 36
- Views 3,806
Mike1974
Diamond
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2014
- Location
- Tampa area
ChipSplitter
Titanium
- Joined
- May 23, 2019
- Location
- Maybe
You're a machinist, right?
Buy one off the shelf and mill flats on the shank. BTDT
Buy one off the shelf and mill flats on the shank. BTDT
That's what I use now, and the little drill chucks are pretty cheezy. They loosen up alot and add slop to the thing.
You're a machinist, right?
Buy one off the shelf and mill flats on the shank. BTDT
I'm going to end up making the goddamn things and then it'll turn into another product line and I already have enough shit going on to last me two lifetimes.
I'd rather someone else make them and I'll buy a dozen to start. Does Maritool make any HSS tools? Frank should make these.
Who else would buy them?
Richard Winn
Aluminum
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2020
David_M
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2014
- Location
- Midway, GA, USA
Bobw
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2005
- Location
- Hatch, NM Chile capital of the WORLD
I have a few questions.
What the F' are you doing that you need flats on your countersink shaft?
And how the heck can you get a good countersink using an IMPACT drill?
I usually keep the clutches on my Dewalts(non-impact) on "not locked up". And from experimentation,
the # just below locked up is good for no more than 3.5 or 4 ft/lbs of torque.
Once in a great while, running a big countersink in the POS Dewalt drill chuck, I'll get a slip.
Usually it just needs a tweek and I'm good to go.
Is the fact that you are using an impact? (I still don't know why) pile driving the cutter
into the material and making you take a much larger cut than you should ever take?
Eliminate the impact part of it, and you won't need the hex shank.
Why the impact? I can't think of a reason why, but it doesn't mean that there isn't one.
What the F' are you doing that you need flats on your countersink shaft?
And how the heck can you get a good countersink using an IMPACT drill?
I usually keep the clutches on my Dewalts(non-impact) on "not locked up". And from experimentation,
the # just below locked up is good for no more than 3.5 or 4 ft/lbs of torque.
Once in a great while, running a big countersink in the POS Dewalt drill chuck, I'll get a slip.
Usually it just needs a tweek and I'm good to go.
Is the fact that you are using an impact? (I still don't know why) pile driving the cutter
into the material and making you take a much larger cut than you should ever take?
Eliminate the impact part of it, and you won't need the hex shank.
Why the impact? I can't think of a reason why, but it doesn't mean that there isn't one.
Limy Sami
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Location
- Norfolk, UK
Festool (Festo) do the zero flute / hole type Festool CENTROTEC Countersinks - Countersinks - Drilling - Power Tool Accessories - Accessories | Axminster Tools & Machinery
I don't use the impact feature at all, I just like how light and easy to use the 1/4" impact drivers are. With a single flute 90 countersink in a 20V Dewalt 1/4" impact it's just a single rotation at low speed and the hole is perfect.
Convenience, nothing at all to do with the impact part of it.
Honestly, I finally killed the Dewalt 18V drill I bought new 20 years ago and I don't want to go shell out $150 for a cordless for the sole function of spinning a countersink a few times a day.
I like the single lip MA ford style best. So easy to touch one up on the grinder by hand.
Cole2534
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2010
- Location
- Oklahoma City, OK
Never seen one, but I do understand your desire for the MAF unit.
I want nothing to do with any other countersink.
Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
I want nothing to do with any other countersink.
Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
rblalexander
Aluminum
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2015
Sutton tools make 1/4 hex drive 3 flute countersinks here in Australia but not the single flute style.
Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
EPAIII
Diamond
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2003
- Location
- Beaumont, TX, USA
I went through a similar search a little while ago. I wanted a better, faster way to deburr holes in parts. I could not find anything other then the imported E-bay and internet stuff. You can get a whole set there for less than the price of one Ford CS. Naturally, I did not bite.
Although the idea of a (battery) powered drill at the drill press and mill appeals to me, I would be happy just having a ratchet handle screwdriver with a set of countersinks at each. The hex shank is for quick changes since the individual countersinks only cover a certain range of hole sizes. I figure that at least three sizes would be desirable.
What I wound up with was some single sized, single flute countersinks that are mounted in screwdriver style handles. They are not easily interchangeable and they do not have a ratchet. I am trying that idea out now. The technique that I am being dragged into is to hold the part in my left hand and resting the round end of the countersink tool against my chest while turning it with my right hand. Far from the best, but it does seem to work. I don't know how my chest will feel if I have to do 100 holes in a row.
I was going to show the item I purchased but it seems they have been discontinued.
I did find some hex shank CSs at McMaster. They are three flutes, not one. And McMaster does not provide any brand names on things like this but I have never been disappointed in any tools that I purchased from them.
McMaster-Carr
Although the idea of a (battery) powered drill at the drill press and mill appeals to me, I would be happy just having a ratchet handle screwdriver with a set of countersinks at each. The hex shank is for quick changes since the individual countersinks only cover a certain range of hole sizes. I figure that at least three sizes would be desirable.
What I wound up with was some single sized, single flute countersinks that are mounted in screwdriver style handles. They are not easily interchangeable and they do not have a ratchet. I am trying that idea out now. The technique that I am being dragged into is to hold the part in my left hand and resting the round end of the countersink tool against my chest while turning it with my right hand. Far from the best, but it does seem to work. I don't know how my chest will feel if I have to do 100 holes in a row.
I was going to show the item I purchased but it seems they have been discontinued.
I did find some hex shank CSs at McMaster. They are three flutes, not one. And McMaster does not provide any brand names on things like this but I have never been disappointed in any tools that I purchased from them.
McMaster-Carr
Limy Sami
Diamond
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Location
- Norfolk, UK
Not really what you want but ???? Noga have got the cutters (which I believe are tapped M7) which only need that thread putting on the end of hex shaft.
https://www.noga.com/pdfFiles/DEBURRING-2017-COUNTERSINK.pdf
Just a thought
https://www.noga.com/pdfFiles/DEBURRING-2017-COUNTERSINK.pdf
Just a thought
OCTANE WORKHOLD
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2020
- Location
- Pennsylvania, USA
We use an M.A. Ford 61100002 1.000" single flute with a .500" shank in a regular cordless drill for chamfering holes off our waterjet (easier to control speed etc.. than any impact I have used). We keep a .500"/.750"/1.000" variant in stock at all times. If you are slipping in the chuck, fuse a piece of wire fast to the shank to prevent spinning. I've probably countersunk a few hundred thousand holes in stainless/steel this way. Obviously if a large chamfer is needed it goes in a machine, or if it is a fully machined part.
But if you really want a hex shank and to use an impact, I would probably make an adapter because that is not something I've come across on quality countersinks.
But if you really want a hex shank and to use an impact, I would probably make an adapter because that is not something I've come across on quality countersinks.
TeachMePlease
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2014
- Location
- FL
Just email MAFord and tell them what you want. If you buy ten, you'll probably barely notice the increase in price. They're very easy to work with, and very happy to do customs without huge up charges.
projectnut
Stainless
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2006
- Location
- Wisconsin
I have a MA Ford Unicam grinding fixture I use on the surface grinder. They still sell them, but unless you're sharpening them on a regular basis you'd be better off just replacing the countersinks.
Here's a link to a company that sells them:
M.A Ford Unicam Series 65 Resharpening Fixture
They've gone up in price considerably since I bought mine. The price from the company I linked is a little over $280.00 I think I paid around $50.00 for it new.
