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  1. #1
    Milacron's Avatar
    Milacron is online now Diamond
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    Default OT- Automatic bilge pumps for boats

    Idea behind the Rule 27S sounds great, but in reading reviews, apparently the execution leaves a bit to be desired. Does anyone else make an automatic bilge pump based on similar 'resistance to impeller' theory ?

    Amazon.com: Rule 27S Marine Rule 1100 Automatic Marine Bilge Pump (1100-GPH, 12-Volt): Sports & Outdoors

    FWIW, the reason behind this is my non automatic Rule 27 is kaput and unless i can figure out how to grow my arm longer, it's seperate float switch is pretty much impossible to get to. The pump is kaput but the float switch may still work but it probably should be replaced, thus the idea to have an automatic pump as I could just cut the wires to float switch and leave it. I don't want to be trying to mount yet another float switch somewhere closer to access if I can avoid it due to ridiculously tight quarters.

    ------------------------

    Alternatively, might go with Jabsco Water Puppy (non submurged type) pump and mount it higher up and then use some sort of all electronic or air pressure type (Groco AS100, for example) water detection switch that has easier mounting...so chatter about those would be welcome also. One downside of the Water Puppy, besides cost, is aprox 400 gph flow vs 1100 gph of the Rule, but for this purpose I think 400 gph would be fine.

  2. #2
    vettepicking is offline Hot Rolled
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    i have this one in my boat Amazon.com: Rule RM1100 Marine Rule-Mate 1100 Marine Bilge Pump (1100-GPH, 12-Volt): Sports & Outdoors , and i was just in the bilge fixing a broken wire to my dash board, the pump works great for the past 6 years. i would stay away from the "water puppy" i like the pumps that can run dry and not over heat like the rules.

  3. #3
    vettepicking is offline Hot Rolled
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    my 1100 rule has the float switch built in, which saves time on installing. most of the time float switches dont go bad, the wires just get dirty and gunk in the bilge binds them up. make sure the power wire to the switch is always run to the + on the battery , and not wired to a battery switch . This way if your boat is at a dock and you turn the battery off the bilge pump will still come on in auto mode... matt

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    Milacron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vettepicking View Post
    my 1100 rule has the float switch built in, which saves time on installing. most of the time float switches dont go bad, the wires just get dirty and gunk in the bilge binds them up. make sure the power wire to the switch is always run to the + on the battery , and not wired to a battery switch . This way if your boat is at a dock and you turn the battery off the bilge pump will still come on in auto mode... matt
    Sounds good, but I honestly don't see a way to actually install it on this boat...access is that tight...I can just barely reach the current pump the release it from it's base....can't imagine trying to drill holes and screw in a different submurged pump.... thus the idea to have non submurged mounted up higher where I can actually get to it.

  5. #5
    vettepicking is offline Hot Rolled
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    most boats have the hose fitting and pump in the rear of the boat, install a new pump system and put the hose on the new pump, leave the rest . what kind of boat? make sure to trace/test all wires first

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    Milacron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vettepicking View Post
    most boats have the hose fitting and pump in the rear of the boat, install a new pump system and put the hose on the new pump, leave the rest . what kind of boat? make sure to trace/test all wires first
    I don't understand how what you just typed is supposed to provide any revelations...did you not comprehend what I wrote ?? Current access is only via battery door near transom and insanely tight...maybe I could train my cat to install a new submursable pump...otherwise need to install non submursable type on battery shelf with hose going down into bilge. Boat is 2007 Sea Hunt Victory 207.

  7. #7
    vettepicking is offline Hot Rolled
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    in the rear of the boat there is a bilge hatch and the pump should be right there so you can service it. if the pump is not there you should put the new pump there. the thru-hull hose fitting should also be in the rear of the boat near the hatch and easily routed to the new pump.

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    vettepicking is offline Hot Rolled
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    you might need to remove the large fiberglass deck lid and reseal after your done, i once had to cut out the small round access lid in the rear of the boat and install a large square one to allow me room to work on bilge wires and fuel lines . just helping you out, matt

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    Milacron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vettepicking View Post
    in the rear of the boat there is a bilge hatch and the pump should be right there so you can service it. if the pump is not there you should put the new pump there. the thru-hull hose fitting should also be in the rear of the boat near the hatch and easily routed to the new pump.
    Sorry, as I didn't think most folks would even know about a hatch back there, I didn't mention it. The deal with the hatch is, even with wood block and hammer I just flat out can't open it....won't turn and can't pry it up either.

    I suppose another option would be to just replace the whole hatch with a better make that doesn't seize up, but even with access thru that hatch there are motor cables and such in the way and it will still be a PITA to deal with a submursable pump compared to a non sub mounted on the battery shelf. Reasonable idea about replacing small round hatch with larger rectangular one but I'm in no mood to do that much work on this boat.

  10. #10
    Ron of Va is offline Aluminum
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    I can not envision your dilemma, but would it be possible to mount the pump or switch on a long piece of aluminum flat bar, and then move the pump into place, and secure the flat bar at a point that is more accessible to the flat bars mounting hardware?

  11. #11
    Gary E is online now Diamond
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    THIS is thee boat ??
    2007 Sea Hunt Victory 207 - Google Search

    If so... remove the old pump...
    Install a NEW one WHERE YOU CAN SERVICE IT... IN A GALE....blindfolded!!

  12. #12
    Milacron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron of Va View Post
    I can not envision your dilemma, but would it be possible to mount the pump or switch on a long piece of aluminum flat bar, and then move the pump into place, and secure the flat bar at a point that is more accessible to the flat bars mounting hardware?
    It would, and I am considering that idea. Even mounted to a piece of hardwood might be good enough. But I'm sort of getting drawn more toward the idea of using the Groco air pressure switch and a non submursible pump as the most user friendly/reliable combination. One issue with the submursible pumps is that if either the auto switch or the pump fails or battery dies, the wires end up under water. (course in extreme circumstances the non submursible pump, the pneumatic switch and most of the boat could be under water )

  13. #13
    vettepicking is offline Hot Rolled
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    the hatch comes off, its just gets sand in the threads. i would cut it out and put in a large 14" x 18" hinged hatch or whatever you have room for. goodluck.

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    Milacron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vettepicking View Post
    the hatch comes off, its just gets sand in the threads. i would cut it out and put in a large 14" x 18" hinged hatch or whatever you have room for. goodluck.
    As hard as I've pounded on it without it budging I think the only way would be to either commit to breaking it out with a wedge or unscrewing the mount flange. Don't see a manuf name on it, but whoever made it should be dope slapped.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary E View Post
    If so... remove the old pump...
    Install a NEW one WHERE YOU CAN SERVICE IT... IN A GALE....blindfolded!!
    Yeah, that's why I'm liking the non sub pump (Jabsco Water Puppy) idea more, as it would be super easy to deal with. Cost is more, flow not as much and have to be careful about running it dry for more than a few seconds...but it would be a piece of cake to service.

  16. #16
    Gary E is online now Diamond
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    Here's about the best pump you can use...



    not cheeeep..... but...IF you NEEEEED a pump.... what does it's cost matter?

    Jabsco Par 34600 Bilge Pumping Systems

    12V and 24V Jabsco Par 34600 self priming bilge pumps. Because these pumps are self priming up to 10ft, they can be mounted above and outside the harsh bilge environment. With an open flow output of 645 gallons per hour, and extended dry running capabilities, 34600 models also feature a lubricated ball bearing system to prolong pump life.
    Because they are mounted remotely, the intake hose can be routed at the lowest point of the bilge regardless of space limitations. Complies with USCG 183.410 and ISO 8846 Marine (ignition protection) 8849 Marine (bilge pump standard).

    Set it right up there on deck and build a box around it so it stays dry and you can get to it easy..
    Maybe this sounds like overkill...but this could just save your life some day and overbuilt?... no such thing in my book.

  17. #17
    Sea Farmer is offline Titanium
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milacron View Post
    As hard as I've pounded on it without it budging I think the only way would be to either commit to breaking it out with a wedge or unscrewing the mount flange. Don't see a manuf name on it, but whoever made it should be dope slapped.
    So now I'm confused. You want to avoid this hassle by installing the new pump and just leave the old one in place? How will you drain the new one? New drain?

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