OT: How to clean rough sawn lumber

adh2000 · Dec 6, 2009

Like the title says, I've got quite a bit of 3x12 and 3x16 rough sawn joists salvaged from a building that was constructed about 1860. I'd like to re-use these in another project where they would be exposed. Problem is they are pretty much black, I could run them through a planer but that would make smooth lumber, they look good just they way they are except for the dark color. Ideally I'd like to find a way to bleach them or lighten them up a bunch and then seal them. This would have to be something I could do on a large scale because I have so many. Any hand scrubbing would be out I would think.

Alan

JunkyardJ · Dec 6, 2009

You could try pressure washing.

You might be able to pressure wash them. Be careful, because too close, and you'll turn the surface to fuzz! Pressure washing is how they prepare siding for stain on houses with real wood siding. I've done it before, and it's not difficult. :cheers:

BWS · Dec 6, 2009

Rent a floor sander........BW

APD · Dec 6, 2009

We used reclaimed 3x12 doug fir for exposed rafters in a house and we cleaned them up with a rental floor sander (belt type) by laying them all down flat side by side and walking the sander back and forth just like on a floor. We only did a couple of passed, just enough to remove any big splinters or fuzz. They still kept their antique look.
There are products out there for bleaching wood also.

homemade · Dec 6, 2009

Oxalic acid

BWS · Dec 6, 2009

First time I used the floor sander trick was 30 or so years ago some 4x11 heart pine lumber was literally bein used in a PIG lot,these were the rails.The idea of floor sander was because of the obvious nastyness,didn't want to use our equip.Anyhow ended up making a gorgeous magazine quality staircase out of them.The kind with open risers.....used the heart pine as treads and carriges along with black iron hdwre.BW

adh2000 · Dec 6, 2009

Thanks for the quick replys. Thought about the pressure washer, its too cold right now but that seems at least worth a try, might be next spring though. As far as the floor sander goes, how would that be better or even different than running them through a planer? Seems like the planer would be faster actually, considering the amount of material to be removed, so why not go that route? Sounds like you sanded all the way to a finished smooth surface. I was sort of thinking more a rough sawn look. As far as the Oxalic acid goes, well I've got a sack of it here, and they sell it at Home Depot and Ace Hardware so how toxic can it be? Yet you read the toxicity reports on the stuff and they talk about how its absorbed through the skin and/or lungs and crystallizes in your liver, resulting in eventual death. So what gives? If its that deadly you wouldn't think they'd sling it around in canvas sacks like they do.

Alan

J Henricksen · Dec 6, 2009

I have a log house that needs washing before re watersealing every 5 years or so. I just use cheap dollar store bleach and water 50/50 mix. Spray it on with a hand pump orchard sprayer and rinse with the hose. Pressure washer will take some of the heavier dirt out of the rough sawn, bleach just takes out some of the dark.

bradlepc · Dec 6, 2009

Sanders work better than planers for dirty lumber because the dirt eats knives. It sounds like you're trying to keep the original weathered surface though which sanding and planing will remove. I haven't tried pressure washing to keep that (you can certainly blow the weathered surface away with a pressure washer). Still I bet it will work if you get the tip and the distance right.

mm58 · Dec 6, 2009

+1 for pressure washer. I've done it - works good...

Mike

gr8life · Dec 6, 2009

Years ago I put up rough sawn walls in a shop. Laid the boards parallel to the floor and thought I would not mind all the dark stuff but I did. Filled a garden sprayer with straight household bleach turned the wood ( pine, spruce or fir I can't remember) almost white. The smell was gone in about a day.
Hope this helps
ed

ZAGNUT · Dec 6, 2009

hydrochloric acid is also great for brightening wood up and removing dirt. used to use it a lot to prep decks for oil. use only a very weak mix, something like 2 cups of 32% acid to a bucket of water.

csaflyn · Dec 6, 2009

I have done this several times. The first thing to determine is how much of the dark color is dirt and soot on the surface of the wood. Do some hand brushing with wire brush or other stiff bristle brush and vacuum off.

If this gives the wanted result, then scale up the brush.
An effect way to brush large pieces is a powered sidewalk broom (like fits on a small tractor), the boards on the ground and held down as needed.

If there is a greasy feel present then some combination of soap and washing with brushing or pressure washing is needed to remove what is on the surface.

The color may also be in the wood, as staining (from water leakage washing something onto the wood), or maybe something in the air causing the wood to darken. Staining like this may go deep in the wood.

Some kinds of wood, especially that is as old as what you have may have reacted with the atmosphere which will turn the surface dark. This can often be scratched off with a fingernail if that is the only cause of darkening.

There are different types of 'bleaches' that can be used, the first response to this post (link below) explains which type bleach to use and why.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Wood_bleach__what_is_it_really.html

Frank Ford · Dec 6, 2009

Careful sandblasting can give interesting results. We have some old buildings downtown with exposed beams that were cleaned by sandblasting.

Here's me cleaning the inside of a Martin guitar that was made in 1867 with ultra fine glass beads:

Forrest Addy · Dec 7, 2009

Dry ice blast them. It's a bit expensive but it doesn't blow in dirt. Its main advangage is it preserves the existing texture. It's used to remove smut and mold from the interior of old wearhouse and factory buildings for gentrification, stink from fire or decomposition, removal of bio hazards, delicate masonry clean-up, and similar applcatons where the surface has to be gently treated in large areas.

I wouldn't try any process on antique wood until I tried dry ice blasting; even pressure washing or soda blasting. Certainly not harsh chemicals or grit blasting.

You can find dry ice blasting in the yellow pages under building restoration. If no ask a contractor for a referral

Forestgnome · Dec 7, 2009

Frank Ford said:
Careful sandblasting can give interesting results. We have some old buildings downtown with exposed beams that were cleaned by sandblasting.

Here's me cleaning the inside of a Martin guitar that was made in 1867 with ultra fine glass beads:

Wow! Bet you get some strange looks when you tell them you clean your guitars by sandblasting them.

Flatus · Dec 7, 2009

I would start with a regular garden hose before going with the more extreme suggestions.

But before that, I would find out what type of wood they are. If they are, for example, chestnut you might be able to sell them for a nice profit. Depending on who is buying, they may want the original surface.

One other thought, if you know someone with a big enough saw, you could just re-rough cut them to a slightly smalller size. It souldn't remove a whole lot more material than planing.

Ferrous Antiquos · Dec 7, 2009

Abrasive blast with walnut shell media.

BigMike782 · Dec 10, 2009

Check with you local Praxair about dry ice blasting.The counter people may not realize they have access to the equipment and ice but they do

OT: How to clean rough sawn lumber

Titanium

Titanium

Hot Rolled

Stainless

Cast Iron

Hot Rolled

Titanium

Stainless

Plastic

Hot Rolled

Cast Iron

Hot Rolled

Plastic

Hot Rolled

Diamond

Stainless

Aluminum

Titanium

Plastic

Similar threads