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  1. #81
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    There are several options, depending on your need:

    1.- Ditch Witch is easiest because the equipment is cheap and available
    2.- Farm tractor-pulled ripper tine with a cable, hose or flexible pipe attachment. You need a tractor that is heavy enough to pull the tine through the earth. Probably 1500 lbs or heavier, otherwise plunging the tine in the ground will act like an anchor. I have a 20hp 1800 lbs tractor and a 32hp 3600 lbs tractor. They can both pull it, but the bigger one does is twice as fast. You need a tractor, the attachment, and you are limited to somewhat flexible conduits as they get bent in the process of burying.
    3.- Hydraulic borer or drill. This is how power and cable companies pull cables under roadways. No more cutting the asphalt and concrete. Hard to get equipment and costly, plus, it requires a skilled operator.
    4.- Vibratory plow. Similar to the one pulled by the tractor, but it has a connection to the tractor's PTO to create the vibration. Quick, clean, unobtrusive. Have not seen that available for rent and you still need a tractor.
    5.- Shovel and pick. Who wants that in their life?
    6.- Mini excavator with the narrowest bucket. You thought renting a Ditch Witch was expensive? Wait till you see this one.

    Thing to remember is also the local code. Depending on what you are burying, you may need to be below the frost-line. In some locales, this could be 3-4 feet and that will not be feasible except with the largest trenchers (usually not available for rent), or the hydraulic boring-drilling tool, or the excavator.

    Andrei

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill D View Post
    Of course code says you have to place the conduit first then pull the wires. Since this is not to code anyway I would use pex pipe as conduit. Or maybe thick wal lpolyethelne.
    Bill D.
    He already has it in PVC conduit which will be just fine.

  3. #83
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    so let the 11 year old drive the tractor with you as the ground man
    Gqary

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    i don't know why you just don't bury the cable with the feeder attached to the subsoiler. that's what the equipment is meant to do and the cable is meant to be buried naked. if you have it in rigid conduit you might just as well used a ditch witch. i understood the original concept was to make a small imprint

  5. #85
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    I think tonight I'll try pulling the conduit in behind the subsoiler. I'm liking that idea more and more.

    Why didn't I just lay UF-G in the ground? Well....several guys here said it's better to use conduit and I guess I agree. Plus the conduit is cheap.

    I know UF-G is tough but I'm not convinced it would make a 230' run being pulled in without getting scabbed off someplace. the ground here is pure soil but it's possible there's a root or old 2x4 or something that could scrape it. That's my luck.

    That is a good idea on letting the kids drive...with the tractor going .0002MPH they won't have any trouble and if they do I'll just walk over and put in in neutral.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    That is a good idea on letting the kids drive...with the tractor going .0002MPH they won't have any trouble and if they do I'll just walk over and put in in neutral.
    Probably violates some State if not Federal rule, but G'Dad started me at age five out of necessity.

    Farmall was left in low-gear. All I had to do was pull the switch, then starter-loop, punch in the switch when the haywagon got to the next row, G'Dad doing the pitchfork work at each stop. Saved him a short-ton of walking, more hay got put up faster.

    Most of America used to work that way, kid's chores at feeding chickens, herding livestock, wrapping product, re-stocking store shelves, washing or painting something actually putting just as much food by for family farm or small-business as if they were scarcer grown-ups.

    Mostly, we LIKED that chance to prove our worth, learned important and valuable lessons 'for free' from it all, too.

    I'd say 'go for it'. Self-sufficient human beings have a far longer and more useful track record than paper-pushers. Give the kids that head-start whenever you safely can do.

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    I know UF-G is tough but I'm not convinced it would make a 230' run being pulled in without getting scabbed off someplace. the ground here is pure soil but it's possible there's a root or old 2x4 or something that could scrape it.
    i just did almost 500' about 3 weeks ago. my soil is sandy with hidden boulders. you couldn't make the trench first because if you take 1 shovel full out 2 more falls back in.
    took about 15 min once started. works fine. i used the heavy hitch ripper and the feeder as shown earlier. you could make a feeder but i had other stuff to do

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  9. #88
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    Yea, the kids already drive the tractors around for fun...I just generally don't let them do 'work' with them. But this type of job is perfect for them to learn on.

    I should mention this thread is just why PM is so great. I hadn't heard of "subsoilers" before and didn't know what they were for etc. So now it has slowly sunk in to my brain and I'm getting a little smarter at least...

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    I hadn't heard of "subsoilers" before and didn't know what they were for etc. So now it has slowly sunk in to my brain and I'm getting a little smarter at least...
    LOL! Not so 'smart'. Gleeful kids are going to now have you laying wire to all corners of the lot for yard lights, 'forts', lighted trampolines, pools, and such..

    What with the "raging hormone" phase not so far off now, you were soon to enter into "interesting times", anyway!

    I'd be tempted to sell that tractor..


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    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    I hadn't heard of "subsoilers" before and didn't know what they were for etc. So now it has slowly sunk in to my brain and I'm getting a little smarter at least...
    you should be on a tractor forum for these questions :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    Why didn't I just lay UF-G in the ground? Well....several guys here said it's better to use conduit and I guess I agree. Plus the conduit is cheap.
    Conduit is better, but code is OK with UF-G at 24" deep.

    I know UF-G is tough but I'm not convinced it would make a 230' run being pulled in without getting scabbed off someplace.
    Oh, pulling's not how you do it! Lay it as you rip, using one of those conduit elbows shown in earlier photos to direct it down to the bottom of the ripped trench. Anchor the starting end, so the cable will pull out (and sit) at the bottom of the trench. Carry the cable reel on your tractor.

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  14. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfriedberg View Post
    Conduit is better, but code is OK with UF-G at 24" deep.

    Oh, pulling's not how you do it! Lay it as you rip, using one of those conduit elbows shown in earlier photos to direct it down to the bottom of the ripped trench. Anchor the starting end, so the cable will pull out (and sit) at the bottom of the trench. Carry the cable reel on your tractor.
    If conduit was placed first, and empty, of course it has to be pulled. Also not much to worry about. It was made for that, and so were its joining methods.

    Nails one cannot see when pulling with NO conduit inside an 'old work' partition is a whole different risk set.

    "Drama" is when one uses a plumber's flat spring steel coil meant for clearing blocked drains as a 'fish' tape instead of polymer/fibreglass one, then gets one end of it to follow a wire right into a live electrical box with bare screwheads on a switch or outlet.

    DAMHIKT, but for some reason or another I DID quit cheaping-out on fish tapes several years back and got meself some nice orange 'non conductive' ones.


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    Well....the conduit is pulled. Without a lot of fanfare, I connected it to the subsoiler along with a pipe and chain I welded to it. The pipe acted as a protector for the leading edge of the conduit, and the chain I zip-tied to the conduit to provide the pulling ability. I also clamped the wire itself to the subsoiler so some of the pulling force would/could go through the wire. But I am pretty sure the majority went through the conduit.

    I had the boys on hand but I drove the tractor and the conduit basically fed into the trench by itself. I could have done it alone. The pull didn't take a lot of force.

    Now I just have to get the ends trimmed to length and terminated.

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  17. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    Now I just have to get the ends trimmed to length and terminated.
    Well DONE!

    And thank you for being the test-case, too!


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  19. #95
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    you need to borrow one of these.
    Watch for kesterson type drainage problems
    Bill D.

    BRON | Self-Propelled Drainage Plows

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    Quote Originally Posted by sfriedberg View Post
    Conduit is better, but code is OK with UF-G at 24" deep.
    code where i'm at is 12", 24" for direct burial service entrance. i don't know what phone service code is but i can tell you it's about 4" in reality
    .


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