OT - Need electrical connector ID'd

SteveF · Apr 26, 2016

12vdc connector for the electric clutch under a Gravely mower. The male connector got ripped off and is missing. Searched around and it is not to be found. It's hard wired to the clutch so Gravely's only solution is to replace the whole clutch assembly. I could just replace with a standard SAE connector but the female side has other wires running from it and I'd have to figure out which wires go where. No markings on the connector and I've browsed the electrical connector vendors and can't seem to find anything like this but it's got to be an off-the-shelf part.

Anyone know what this is and where I can buy one?

Thanks.
Steve

CFF · Apr 26, 2016

SteveF said:
12vdc connector for the electric clutch under a Gravely mower. The male connector got ripped off and is missing. Searched around and it is not to be found. It's hard wired to the clutch so Gravely's only solution is to replace the whole clutch assembly. I could just replace with a standard SAE connector but the female side has other wires running from it and I'd have to figure out which wires go where. No markings on the connector and I've browsed the electrical connector vendors and can't seem to find anything like this but it's got to be an off-the-shelf part.

Anyone know what this is and where I can buy one?

View attachment 169922 View attachment 169923

Thanks.
Steve

Delphi 2984883 - terminals are wire ga dependent but a common one is 2965429.

terminalsandconnectors.com

Waytek

Terminal Supply

Del City

Any of those should be able to hook you up.

Scottl · Apr 26, 2016

My guess would be AMP or Molex but I would have no idea of the series. I think these were used on washing machines and other appliances years ago.

Are the connectors 1/4" wide straight tabs? If so you might be able to use .250 Fastabs to mate with them without a housing.

Edit: Just re-read original post. I was thinking much older Gravely product. Delphi connector sure looks like it and more likely on modern product.

CFF · Apr 26, 2016

Also, just to be clear, the connector in the pic is 2984883. It's mate, should you need it is Delphi 2973781.

Chip Chester · Apr 26, 2016

Wow. Another first-post home run? (Or maybe CFF's second post...)
There was one last month, too.

Chip

WizardOfBoz · Apr 26, 2016

Chip Chester said:
Wow. Another first-post home run? (Or maybe CFF's second post...)
There was one last month, too.

Chip

Chip, I thought that the speed and accuracy of the response was pretty impressive, too.

SteveF · Apr 26, 2016

CFF said:
Also, just to be clear, the connector in the pic is 2984883. It's mate, should you need it is Delphi 2973781.

CFF - Thanks very much.

Steve

EPAIII · Apr 26, 2016

I often find that the answers to electrical questions here are better and faster than those on mechanical matters. What a brain trust!

bosleyjr said:
Chip, I thought that the speed and accuracy of the response was pretty impressive, too.

SteveF · Apr 26, 2016

Let's test the brain trust a little more.

There are two black wires coming from the PTO clutch, and the wiring diagram is no help with which is the positive and which is the negative. I talked to a Gravely service tech and he said he has never had to fix one with the connector ripped off so didn't have any idea.

If I guess correctly, the clutch will lock to the motor shaft and not rotate and life will be good. If I guess incorrectly, the clutch will either: A - not lock to the shaft OR B - get damaged in some way.

Any thoughts?

Steve

snowman · Apr 26, 2016

It's an electromagnet. Thus the worst that will happen is A...but you could always test it while it's not running.

That is, unless it has a suppression diode inside the clutch itself. Then you might blow the diode up.

James H Clark · Apr 26, 2016

SteveF: I would think that if the polarity is wrong, it simply wound not work. The coil in the clutch simply pulls the sheave in to contact with the engine side of the clutch assy. If the polarity is wrong, I think it will not engage, thus simply not locking up. I would wire it up without the engine running and see if it will go into lockup. When I say wire it up, just run a circuit of wires from both sides of the battery with a switch in the circuit, thus bypassing a bunch of safety switches just for the purpose of this test. Good luck.

Sarge

on edit: Looks like snowman beat me to it. Rats, foiled again.

SteveF · Apr 26, 2016

That was my gut feeling. My plan is to just run two wires from a spare motorcycle battery I have and try it out. Nice and simple, no engine running and no bumping the muffler which is right next to the clutch.

Steve

Joe Rogers · Apr 27, 2016

The clutch coil won't care. On cars with magnetic clutches on AC compressors there are diodes to kill the induced voltage when the clutch is disconnected. I doubt a Gravley will need that protection to other sensitive electronics.
Joe

jim rozen · Apr 27, 2016

If you don't need to disconnect two assemblies, simply cut the connectors off, solder the wires together, and
apply heat shrink tubing/tape as appropriate.

Hint: most manufactuers are pretty smart. If the polarity of current to the clutch mattered, they wouldn't
have made both the wires black. (check for a tracer stripe in one of them...)

Somebody had to assemble this thing, and they had to put one terminal in the horizontal position in the
connector body, and one in the vertical one - they're poke-home type connectors. If both the wires
are black, which one goes where?

Smart money says this connector is simply there for ease of manufacture. One assembly is built one place,
the other somewhere else. They arrive at assembly and it takes to long to solder the wires together!

So a connector.

keyster · Apr 27, 2016

I would check the clutch wires so see if they go to the chassis ground.
I don't think polarity at the clutch matters as long as nothing goes to ground.

SteveF · Apr 27, 2016

jim rozen said:
If you don't need to disconnect two assemblies, ...................

The wire needs to be disconnected in order to change the main drive belt, so a connector is necessary.

The wires are both solid black, no stripe. I've already figured out the top blade in the female connector is the positive so the only remaining issue is the figuring out which wire goes on top for the male side.

Steve

Scottl · Apr 27, 2016

SteveF said:
Let's test the brain trust a little more.

There are two black wires coming from the PTO clutch, and the wiring diagram is no help with which is the positive and which is the negative. I talked to a Gravely service tech and he said he has never had to fix one with the connector ripped off so didn't have any idea.

If I guess correctly, the clutch will lock to the motor shaft and not rotate and life will be good. If I guess incorrectly, the clutch will either: A - not lock to the shaft OR B - get damaged in some way.

Any thoughts?

Steve

Try checking with an ohmeter to ground. If one wire has continuity that is the return.

If not, try a lower voltage battery (or several in series) to check direction of movement. I used to check automotive speakers for phasing with a single D cell. When both speakers push or pull with the same polarity the phasing will be correct. 1-1/2 volts was not enough to overly stress the cones. Out of phase speakers will cause discomfort and even nausea with strong bass notes.

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OT - Need electrical connector ID'd

SteveF

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CFF

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Scottl

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WizardOfBoz

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SteveF

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EPAIII

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SteveF

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snowman

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SteveF

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Scottl

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