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OT: Proper tool to use on a pipe union, or hieght, width, and depth of stupidity?

After many years of fighting such insanity, I developed a mentality that I get paid by the hour, I will explain sanity to the boss once, and only once, and then if the insanity persists, say "If you say so".

CarlBoyd
 
Use Word to write a document on the procedure. Include a Table of contents at the beginning of the document. Use numbered pages at the footer. Do a Heading with different fonts and colors. Include photographs. Put in a table to reference sizes to tools. Create an Excel file for tracking tooling, calibration schedules. Throw in a system of tagging. Use power point as your training documentation. Reference CAD drawings and have all of it available on your network. Stop arguing and be the go to solution.
 
Use Word to write a document on the procedure. Include a Table of contents at the beginning of the document. Use numbered pages at the footer. Do a Heading with different fonts and colors. Include photographs. Put in a table to reference sizes to tools. Create an Excel file for tracking tooling, calibration schedules. Throw in a system of tagging. Use power point as your training documentation. Reference CAD drawings and have all of it available on your network. Stop arguing and be the go to solution.

Pathogen,unfortunately, I believe you have a solution. I will just need to throw in a decision flow chart, and make an app to put on phones.
Medication is kicking in, I'm better now.
have fun
i_r_
 
2 hammers to ''crack em''

That will require a table in the document relating pipe size to the size of hammer required. Four columns minimum, sizing both the swung hammer and the stationary hammer, as well as needing accelerometers to insure sufficient impact. Accelerometers should automatically download to a data device for archiving.
 
Nah, let's see how many have practical pipework experience, or can work it out for themselves.

Hint, hint.... funnier to watch the look on his face after some poor sod finally gives up the struggle with pickle forks and screw-claws to git a tie-rod end loose..

..and one Old Fart with a semi-mismatched pair of short-handled "hand drilling" hammers pops it out in a New York Minute.

Distortion. God must ha' loved, 'coz she made so much of it..

:D
 
That will require a table in the document relating pipe size to the size of hammer required. Four columns minimum, sizing both the swung hammer and the stationary hammer, as well as needing accelerometers to insure sufficient impact. Accelerometers should automatically download to a data device for archiving.

************'s sake... what "works for me" is being 100% ambidextrous.

How you gonna duplicate THAT without three or more prior generations of ancestors, same dice-roll?

Different kind of "spread sheet" required for that sort of romp.

:D
 
Pipe union? I would use two pipe wrenches.
Bill D

Metallic-seat unions have the NASTIEST habit of corroding and then.. "pipe" wrenches can distort the body halves permanently - new union required - whilst "the English trick" with hammers only obturates 'em temporarily, breaking the bond whilst staying within elastic deformation range and springing back so as to not ruin the seat shape.

Seems counter-intitive, but yah gots to figure the way a Stillson or Rigid pattern wrench gets its grip is by crush.

Mind - I harbour proper spanners and even flare-nut wrenches, US and Metric, and still respect the opposed hammer trick as the starter.
 
The brass insert is supposed to prevent them from locking and allow some crush zone to get them tight.
I remember my brothers and I working for about 30 minutes to remove a rusted on exhaust nut on a VW bug. Using hammers to break it free. Our father came home took one look and said "you need a bigger hammer". We were using carpenter hammers and maybe a one pound ballpein. He walked to the basement came back with a two pound sledge took one hit and job done.
We did break another stud trying to remove it's nut. We used new nuts and clamped the broken one with visegrips. The visegrips held for over one year until the car was sold with them still attached.
Bill D
 
The brass insert is supposed to prevent them from locking and allow some crush zone to get them tight.
The check is supposed to be in the mail, nice folks are not supposed to deposit boldily fluids in certain orifices uninvited, and are supposed to.. respect each other in the morning.

"Brass" is the operative culprit. Copper component of it is a good neighbour, mostly minds its own business, forms a thin skin, then hides behind it.

Zinc, however - the alloying element that makes a Copper alloy "Brass", not one of the Bronzes , is a notoriously amoral hoor. It will combine with anything handy, and form compounds that can bind-up that Union as if badly soft-soldered, then further the insult by leaking right around the slag, anyway, and laying down a forest of lime crusticles worthy of a modern art exhibit.

Bronze, where used, is a much better behaved partner. Tin, the more common alloying element with Copper, is not inert, but will at least play hard to get as to casual chemical liaisons, and for rather a long while.
 








 
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