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How to Make a Steel Flywheel & What Material would you Use

Prostocktom

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 25, 2005
Location
INDIANA
This should be a easy one for some of the guys on here.

I want to make a steel flywheel for my 49 Ford Coupe which has a 57 Lincoln Y Block engine in it.

I have a factory cast flywheel for this engine, but would rather have a steel one ( much safer ) plus hotrod parts for a 368 Lincoln are very rare and even more expensive.

My current thoughts are to use a 1045 steel, while this might not be the correct grade I doubt many aftermarket flywheel like to use steel that cost more, therefore my guess of using 1045 grade.

My thought is to use the Blanchard to get the plate flat, then lay it flat on the VMC and
machine out the center hole , counterbore, bolt holes.

Flip it over, reindicate the center hole, counterbore this side, then rebolt it down through the center and cut the O.D. and start ring lip to size.

After all this is complete I can finish grind the clutch surface on a Van Norman flywheel surfacer.


Now my questions

1. Is this a good way to make the part ? Or is there a better way ?

2. Is there a common method that aftermarket companies use to produce these ?

3. Do I need a different grade steel ?

4. What have I missed in my thought process ?

Thanks for any input

Tom
 
We always use hardened EN24 (817M40) - otherwise the ring gear wears out like lightning and if you're concerned about the cast one, then I'd assume you're revving higher, so the extra strength is probably a good idea?

We normally put the start of the ring gear, bolt holes, and centre spigot all in in one go so that they're all as concentric as the machine will allow, then flip over onto a fixture that picks up the centre bore and the partial ring gear, countersink the bolt holes, bolt it down so we can finish the ring gear, and then run a finish pass on the clutch surface with new end-mill.
 
We always use hardened EN24 (817M40) - otherwise the ring gear wears out like lightning and if you're concerned about the cast one, then I'd assume you're revving higher, so the extra strength is probably a good idea?

We normally put the start of the ring gear, bolt holes, and centre spigot all in in one go so that they're all as concentric as the machine will allow, then flip over onto a fixture that picks up the centre bore and the partial ring gear, countersink the bolt holes, bolt it down so we can finish the ring gear, and then run a finish pass on the clutch surface with new end-mill.
The factory flywheel has a removeable starter ring, so I figured all I needed to do is make the flywheel and install a new starter ring like the orginial one has, that way you can always replace it If needed instead of throwing the flywheel away.


Here's a quote I found on the net

DESCRIPTION
Fidanza aluminum flywheels are made from the highest quality 6061 T6 aluminum. The friction surface is constructed out of an icredibly strong 1045 steel.

But looks like I'm on the right page anyway, but I'm interested in any input on the subject I can get.

Thanks Tom
 
I suppose it depends how far you're going, ours are quite small flywheels going regularly to 10krpm, along with lots of heat from cerametallic plates, but I've seen what happens when a flywheel lets go, so we always work in a considerable amount of margin!
 
Ehyerwot?............. we are talking ordinary dry friction linings (as in brake shoe material),..........aren't we?....... or am I missing something.
Yes, Just a dry friction material of some type, no ceramic or puck type metal friction material.

I might end up using some type of dual friction disc, but it wouldn't be anything exotic.

Just trying to make a well built safe flywheel that will give me years of trouble free use.

Tom
 
I would have bet money there would have been 10 guys on here that have made there own flywheels or worked in a shop that made them,

Still looking to hear what others think

Thanks Tom
 
I've never had a Y block, but heard it repeated over the years they aren't big performers in the 5000 RPM+ area. A kind of valvetrain handicap if I remember right. If that's the case wouldn't iron be fine?

T1's some tough stuff. Built the wedge on my log splitter from that stuff 15 years ago and it's still as sharp as the day I milled it (with 350 hours on it). Wasn't too bad to machine unless it gets hard.
 
I've never had a Y block, but heard it repeated over the years they aren't big performers in the 5000 RPM+ area. A kind of valvetrain handicap if I remember right. If that's the case wouldn't iron be fine?

T1's some tough stuff. Built the wedge on my log splitter from that stuff 15 years ago and it's still as sharp as the day I milled it (with 350 hours on it). Wasn't too bad to machine unless it gets hard.

The Lincoln Y block has nothing in common with the Ford Y block

In fact If you look at a Lincoln Y Block head which started in 1953 as a 317 cubic inch you would see where in fact Chevrolet got the idea for there small block heads.

My engine will turn 6500 rpms at most, but it's the Drag slicks and high rpm lauches that make me want the steel flywheel.

Tom
 
Shows what I know then! I didn't know Lincoln made thier own V8 during that period. I'm familiar with MEL engines and FE's, learn something new every day.
 
Have you investigated the possibility of adapting a flywheel from some other application? Even if a homemade wheel it isn't caught by tech, your feet are worth having an SFI approved flywheel.

Roger
 
Are the truck Y blocks related to the Lincoln Y block? I had a 59 C800 with a 332. Would a truck have a steel wheel?

There's a member here who is part of RAM, maybe a phone call would get that info? I'd be tempted to use 4140 or 4140HT if it was available, if I couldn't get a pro recommendation. A good lathe or blanchard finish would be as good as the Flywheel regrinder, the flywheel machine only grinds them because of the hard spots created in use and yours won't have hard spots yet, and I think you can make it more true to the mounting flange than the van norman machine can.
 
Mud, just going from memory here, but I think the 332 was the first in the family that went on to be the 352,390,360, and 428. I think the first one I saw was in a 58 Ranchwagon. The Y blocks were 272, 292, and 312.
James
 
There is a 332 in the FE family, but this was definitely a Y-block. Dist in the rear at an angle, 2 bolt valve covers, etc. Looked like a 312 but longer and wider.
 








 
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