OT- Wiring Well Pump Control Box Help!
I am a friends farm in Uruguay helping out for two weeks. He fired a farm hand for good cause and he came back at night and smashed the well pump control box. My friend was not able to get a new one there so I brought one from the states. The terminals on the new box are marked yellow red and black. The wires that come up from the submerged pump are brown blue and green. Here nobody cares about color code standards whatever works is the mantra. Since the box was smashed the only component in the old box that I could identify was the capacitor. The capacitor in the old box was connected across pump lines brown and blue. I can email a photo of the new control box and the old one with a diagram. Can anyone tell me how to connect the wires to the pump to to new box? Does the order of the capacitor wires matter in that would it affect the starting torque (reversed) if the capacitor wires are switched? I dont know how to attach photos to this post but I can send them via email. Thanks we are really screwed without a well pump and there is no one here that can help.
Try sending a mail to soeren lund nielsen (at) gmail.com. Remove the spaces..
I can host it in my photobucket account, if I can't help!
Will these help?
You are trying to identify the run, start, and common lines, and to figure out how these connect to the hot and neutral coming off the breaker or contactor, right?
Does this help?
Identifying Motor Capacitor Terminals | HVAC Troubleshooting Guides
Apparently the cap polarity matters only if there is a short. The cap should be installed across the run and start lines. So if the cap was installed correctly, we know run and start are blue and brown, but we don't know which is which? There should be an identified side on the cap with a dot, a dash, or an arrow pointing to it. If the cap is installed correctly, the identified side should be connected to the start side of the motor. The other cap line should be to the run side. Green would be common.
I would measure resistance across brown/blue and verify that it's twice that of brown/green and blue/green. Then power should go (hot) blue or brown, and (neutral) to green.
Experts, please verify.
Here are his photos :
I normally only deal with 3-phase pumps, so I'm not to much help here, other than hosting the photos.
If you have them any larger, please send them, and I'll put them in Photobucket.
There are no markings as to polarity on the old control box capacitor only a blue wire and a brown wire. The new control box capacitor also is not marked as to polarity only a red wire and orange wire.
I don't know about in Uraguay, but usually brown and blue signify DC while Red, White and Orange signify AC.
How do I determine the start leads and the main leads using an ohm meter and if I reverse the capacitor leads w2ill the motor still start?
In the U.S. the red wire is the start and the black wire is run and the yellow is common. (on submersible pumps--3 wire)
Ok, to identify the motor leads with an ohmmeter measure blue to brown, blue to green, and brown to green. When you find the two that have very low resistance, like 2.5-3 ohms these two are conected to the run windings. Mark the other wire as red. Now measure the resistance from the now marked red wire to each of the other two wires. The readings will be something like 10-13 ohms one way and 13-16 ohms the other. The highest resistance to red is the black wire, and the remaining wire is yellow. Match the new wire colors to the terminal markings in the control box. There is no polarity on the plastic cased start capacitors, just ignore that part. This is how a 1/2 to 1 horse Franklin or Pentec works, with the figures I quoted for a 1 horse, the ohms vary with the different motors. Thats the best I can do with the info provided, hope it helps.
Best of luck.
While no expert, motor start and run capacitors are unpolarized. It's AC, hence the absence of plus or minus on the case.
Originally Posted by bosleyjr