Paint recommendation

SeymourDumore · Oct 13, 2017

Guys, I know this might be a subject that has been beaten to death over and over, but...

I am resurrecting an older centerless grinder and looking for advise on what to use to re-paint it with.
Interestingly, as old as it is, it still has it's original paint. Rusty on some spots, worn off on others, sad looking all over, but it is absolutely in a condition that
is worth resurrecting ( please note that I did not mean restoring to near-new!).

I do not care about the original color, nor do I care about the standard color for grinders.
I am kind of partial to silver, but anything short of pink or purple will do.
I'd very much much prefer semi-gloss ( painted a B&S #2 with flat silver once about 20 years ago :dopeslap:

) that is durable.
In recent past I've used an "industrial" grade green from Sherwin on a Federal stamping press and a Dennison hydro.
Worked just fine, but it took EONS to dry enough as to not make a dent in it or plain dumb rub it off during assembly.

Anyhow, can anyone please recommend a brand and type of paint that is relatively quick dry, can be brushed on, smooth ( as in semi-gloss ) and is durable
for the shop environment?
I do like the Rustoleum hammered finish as that one hides just about everything, but it also takes a while to dry enough to be used.

Thank You

Steve in SoCal · Oct 14, 2017

The long drying time can be helped by using hardener in most enamels. Look at Tractor Supply or Sherwin Williams, TS will be less expensive. A light gray semi gloss would be close to silver.

Steve

SeymourDumore · Oct 14, 2017

Steve in SoCal said:
The long drying time can be helped by using hardener in most enamels.
Steve

I know a bit about hardeners for automotive paints, but does TS have any of that stuff?
As far as Sherwin goes, I almost had to drop my pants for the gal behind the counter just to let me buy oil based paint
for my basement floor or the outside doors!
I ain't no Adonis anymore ( if I ever was one ), so my chances of getting something that "used to work on everything" from Sherwin is likely not
going to happen.
I know of a place near by that sells the absolute best automotive paints, but those things are all to be sprayed, none to be brushed.

rabtrfld · Oct 14, 2017

Good paint takes a long time to dry. Think how much stronger 24-hour epoxy is than 20-minute!
Many years ago, my partner had the brilliant idea to paint Holstein cow pattern on our product, which was otherwise white ABS, for a certain client. They loved the idea, and my girlfriend hand-painted the lot. We used Ferrothane. But when a sample was delivered, the client found they could scratch it off with their fingernail, so they nixed the whole thing. I had to remove the paint. By the time I got to it, about a week later, it was harder than sin. I had to sand it with coarse grit and spoiled the finish on the plastic, had to sand it by grades to 600 and buff it all out. That's how I learned the difference between drying and curing.

10 fingers · Oct 14, 2017

SeymourDumore said:
Guys, I know this might be a subject that has been beaten to death over and over, but...

I am resurrecting an older centerless grinder and looking for advise on what to use to re-paint it with.
Interestingly, as old as it is, it still has it's original paint. Rusty on some spots, worn off on others, sad looking all over, but it is absolutely in a condition that
is worth resurrecting ( please note that I did not mean restoring to near-new!).

I do not care about the original color, nor do I care about the standard color for grinders.
I am kind of partial to silver, but anything short of pink or purple will do.
I'd very much much prefer semi-gloss ( painted a B&S #2 with flat silver once about 20 years ago ) that is durable.
In recent past I've used an "industrial" grade green from Sherwin on a Federal stamping press and a Dennison hydro.
Worked just fine, but it took EONS to dry enough as to not make a dent in it or plain dumb rub it off during assembly.

Anyhow, can anyone please recommend a brand and type of paint that is relatively quick dry, can be brushed on, smooth ( as in semi-gloss ) and is durable
for the shop environment?
I do like the Rustoleum hammered finish as that one hides just about everything, but it also takes a while to dry enough to be used.

Thank You

RE: "I know this might be a subject that has been beaten to death over and over"

You're right. Do your homework. Or suffer the fools that have no experience with grinding coolant PH and paint finishes.

surplusjohn · Oct 14, 2017

I used to paint allot of machinery. I found that Sherwin Williams machinery paint with some penetrol, two coats, was the best, tough, nice gloss, eventually very hard. go to their commercial stores, they have different lines of paints. Be aware that more and more enamels use tint bases, ie a transparent base with just a dab of colorant, avoid these. the old fashioned greys, blacks and iron reds were heavily loaded with pigment and really covered. the pigment also acts as an aggregate, strengthening the paint film. the Rustoleum hammered is also a good finish, hides allot. the rattle can version is not as good as the quart version, different formulations.

many years ago, I worked for my father and we were cleaning up a plant he bought, he told the help to go ahead and paint certain machines and to pick out what ever colors they wanted. we ended up with several metallic gold Chicago riveters, which nicely set off the purple punch press.

AlexO · Oct 14, 2017

SeymourDumore said:
Anyhow, can anyone please recommend a brand and type of paint that is relatively quick dry, can be brushed on, smooth ( as in semi-gloss ) and is durable
for the shop environment?
I do like the Rustoleum hammered finish as that one hides just about everything, but it also takes a while to dry enough to be used.

Thank You

I couldn't recommend a specific brand but I want to say there is no easy solution. I painted a lot of machinery ( some were large printing presses ) and quite a few cars. Good car paints can be quick drying and tough. But they need careful preparation I find almost impossible to get right on machine tools. Then you get a range of marine epoxies which are great but are expensive, hard to refinish and in my experience don't last that well. Then, I noticed that me trying to get the paint done yesterday had no effect on the date the machine was running. It wasn't the paint drying causing the delays, it was all the other stuff. In short, now I use only oil paints, the cheaper the better. When applied right an oil paint will ignore the oil present in CI castings and after some months the adhesion is 2nd to none. There are one or two special primers which might beat it but they add too much thickness and are water based. I paint a super thin layer which I rub well with the brush, let that dry well for a few days and then paint the final layer on top of that using a roller as much as possible. Haven't had any complaints. A bullet proof method ( which I am not saying I am using... ) is to cause some minor rusting on the surf with acid and then paint the first layer. Two-three years down the line the only way to remove this is sandpaper. OT but some 10 years ago I did a SIP jig borer and the paint on that one ( 1932 ) could not be removed by any chemical means. I was told that was "vinyl paint". I've no idea what that is but it was TOUGH.

Ohio Mike · Oct 14, 2017

The best stuff is insanely expensive, it two part and will kill you. I recommend Sherwin Williams all purpose enamel. Can be mixed to any shade you want, goes on wonderfully doesn't smell awful and doesn't dry insanely slow (Rustoleum :angry:

) my second choice would be Benjamin Moore.

Demon69 · Oct 14, 2017

Goto the auto store and buy the cheapest truck line 2k.
Scuff the job any which way you can be bothered.
Degrease with a spirit based degreaser.
Don the the mask of no death (you of course wont die if you use no mask but everyone thinks you will so wear one to keep them happy)
Mix up and strain paint (after youve doned the the nitrile gloves of non death), no thinner and brush on one coat with the brush that cant be used.
If you dont like what you see in the morning dry rub (de-nib + some) with 180 -
320 ish paper.
Tack wipe down and brush on the second coat and it should be job done.
If you still dont like what you see in the morning youre one fussy mother and probably are one of those folks who needs to bondo the entire job, deep 2k prime and 2 stage wet flat with 400 - 800. 3 coats of top coat minimum finishing with a colour sand and buff for that Bentley like mirror smooth shine thatll get facked far sooner than youd like with use.

Enjoy

10 fingers · Oct 14, 2017

Ohio Mike said:
The best stuff is insanely expensive, it two part and will kill you. I recommend Sherwin Williams all purpose enamel. Can be mixed to any shade you want, goes on wonderfully doesn't smell awful and doesn't dry insanely slow (Rustoleum ) my second choice would be Benjamin Moore.

You're not supposed to drink it.

Bill D · Oct 14, 2017

I wonder what the worlds navies use today? I now the mothball fleets in the USA. got in trouble for peeling lead paint falling off the ships into the bays where they are anchored permanently. Kind of ironic if they declare oil based paint too hazardous for a warship to use.
Bill

adama · Oct 14, 2017

Im a 2K paint convert, single part is a waste of time these days, good carbon respirator with correctly followed filter change intervals normally 40 hours use tops and you can brush it on with no more health risk than using most 2 part resin systems. To make it brush-able you just add some ultra slow drying thinners. Get the pre calibrated ratio mixing cups and its really easy going. Sets up nice and hard after a couple of days and can be buffed to your hearts content.

My experiance with tractor enamel is its crap, barely as good as gloss indoor paint and faides - weathers fast and is soft so marks easy.

The real danger with the 2 pack is the hardener and developing a allergic reaction via inhalation. ERGO don't spray it, practice good hygiene and you have eliminated most of the risk!

AlexO · Oct 14, 2017

adama said:
Im a 2K paint convert, single part is a waste of time these days,

Well, I used to be too but I'm a bit more careful nowadays. My problem is it tends to come off in "plates" off cast iron once the oil eventually manages to get back to the surface. If you found a reliable way to fix that I'd be very curious to know it. I don't know what "tractor enamel" is but good brands of enamel coming from proper paint manufacturers are pretty bullet proof once dry. Not as scratch resistant as a good 2k but overall more forgiving. That's my 2CW.

MattiJ · Oct 14, 2017

"Dirty surface" 2K epoxies might work bit better on oily machinery.
Like Jotamastic 87 – Surface tolerant epoxy mastic coating | Jotun

rons · Oct 14, 2017

adama said:
Im a 2K paint convert, single part is a waste of time these days, good carbon respirator with correctly followed filter change intervals normally 40 hours use tops and you can brush it on with no more health risk than using most 2 part resin systems. To make it brush-able you just add some ultra slow drying thinners. Get the pre calibrated ratio mixing cups and its really easy going. Sets up nice and hard after a couple of days and can be buffed to your hearts content.

My experiance with tractor enamel is its crap, barely as good as gloss indoor paint and faides - weathers fast and is soft so marks easy.

The real danger with the 2 pack is the hardener and developing a allergic reaction via inhalation. ERGO don't spray it, practice good hygiene and you have eliminated most of the risk!

I spray the two part paint using a fresh air breathing system from SAS.

The real danger is permanent nervous system damage (stated on label). I remember some member painting a Bridgeport mill would hold his breath between trigger pulls. Couldn't live like that.

garyhlucas · Oct 14, 2017

I used to paint packaging machine frames. Two part Rustoleum epoxy was very easy to apply and rock hard the next day.

Steve in SoCal · Oct 14, 2017

Isocynates are not to be taken lightly, I did use a respirator for many years, now I use supplied air. An inexpensive supplied air system can be made with a CPAP machine, air hose and, full face respirator. I actually use 3/4 nonmetalic flex conduit to pipe the air from outside the paint area. Even the hardeners for enamel contains isocynates, it will absorb through the skin as well. Some people tend to have a higher sensitivity to it and one exposure can be bad to very bad.

I still think high solids enamel is the best bang for the buck, particularly if brushing or rolling. I know that 2K paint can be brushed, Fedship takes pride in the fact that their boats are all brushed and they are near perfect. That said, it is a machine that will be indoors and I don't think it is a show piece. A gallon of enamel at Tractor Supply or similar places is about 60.00 an pint of hardener 15.00.

Steve

true temper · Oct 14, 2017

This is what I like Benjamin Moore m22. http://www2.benjaminmoore.com/Downl...Id=BEA+Repository/16309/data_sheet_file_en_US

Demon69 · Oct 15, 2017

Pretty much what adama said.
The only thing id say in my minor experience brushing 2k top coat is I found it better to use no thinner and aim for build. Youre not looking to hang about with it, slap it on and lay it of as quick as you can reasonably do it, then onto the next section. Start and finish in a place thats not on show. Use a hardner thats speed is appropriate for the temps.

----------------------

Iso's shouldnt be taken lightly, granted. But it helps to take it realistically. Dont be an idiot and do deep breathing exercises without pp in an overspray filled room, dont take a bath in the hardener. Dont eat or drink it.
Glove up (primarily cos its bollox to get of your hands) and wear a decent mask. If youre spraying sort some decent extraction. If you cant smell it and youre not wearing it youre good. Its basic common sense over rocket science.
The commercial stuff today is super sticky with some topcoats listed as being suitable for surfaces down to bare metal. Great if youre trying to get that van they need back yesterday out the door or youre wanting to coat up a machine tool.
We're not talking Bentleys here guys.

After scuffing with a wire wheel, no primer, first coat on.

A quick dry rub next day to knock the tops down.

Second and final coat, which you or may not need.

rons · Oct 15, 2017

If your airline hose is one that out-gases, it will do so forever. A medical grade hose is what is supposed to be used. Also the fittings should not conform to styles like automotive or industrial. The fittings are slightly larger than the industrial style and only fit a different size coupler. So the breathing system is always isolated from the tank with oil pump. That is the way SAS does it.

Paint recommendation

Diamond

Titanium

Diamond

Aluminum

Hot Rolled

Diamond

Banned

Titanium

Titanium

Hot Rolled

Diamond

Diamond

Banned

Titanium

Diamond

Stainless

Titanium

Stainless

Titanium

Diamond

Similar threads