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Painting drywall - shop wall color - brand paint recommendation

snowman

Diamond
Joined
Jul 31, 2004
Location
Southeast Michigan
Just curious what others have done for a color, and how you liked it.

Milacron, did you end up using a sherwin williams product? Which one?

General use shop, and I want the clean look of drywall. I'll put up stainless splash pads where coolant is likely to get slung.
 
i just built a new shop. don't remember what brand sw paint i used -middle of the line. i used 29 ga gavalume pbr roof panels four foot up around all the walls.
except office of course
 
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The durability of oil based paint is hard to beat. We have been using oil based floor paint for everything possible. It's getting very hard to get oil paint. The floor paint is about all we could find except anti-rust. Although I would put up steel or plastic panels on the walls if it was me. Lots of plastic options used by the dairy industry.
 
I used 3 coats(it TOOK 3 coats!) on the new drywall walls in my new shop 30' x 40'. Behr advertises the best "hiding" properties,but it still took 3 coats of white latex paint,before I could no longer see the white tape over the joints in the gray drywall.

White is best if you don't want your walls soaking up available light. We had a 16' long "tool board" in the Tool Maker's Shop when we moved into the new room. I painted the tool board gray. It REALLY soaked up a LOT of light,making the whole area near it look darker. I re painted it white,and got a GREAT increase in light.

I'll certainly agree that OIL based paint would be much more durable in a shop situation,where oil or grease could get flung onto the walls.
 
i used 29 ga gavalume pbr roof panels four foot up around all the walls.

Wiser choice than SS and better looking, long-term as well IMNSHO.

Save the SS panels for the far fewer locations where high-velocity chips, the odd busted shards of cutting tools and the rare errant entire PART might impact.

Your energy bill - lighting especially - will appreciate off-whites or ivories just 'off' enough to not be stark white, nor show dirt as badly.

Pinks? Lady Wife's choice, most of the 'Residence' side of the wall here.
Shop & layout areas, I tend more towards cheery yellow(ish) pastel influence.

Got a huge pushback in a Day Job where I once re-topped all the electronics benches with 'primrose yellow', eggshell surface finish. Just HAD to be dead-wrong vs the previous grey linen Formica, gloss finish.

First day, worker-bees discovered they were no longer losing track of as many itty-bitty parts.

End of week one, folks realized they were going home with LESS 'veiling reflection' eye strain, not more, lower stress, and a cheerier attitude, even in a junkyard-dog-rabid IBEW Union Shop environment. Shop Steward actually apologized for having thrown a hissy fit.

Sometimes it pays to "sweat the small stuff" after all.

Bill
 
I was repainting a bedroom in our house. I cleaned the window trim and used a deglosser before painting with the Behr "one coat" semigloss. Used a Purdy top of the line brush.

The results were terrible. The paint wetted out poorly, did not cover in one coat, and was very bad for brush marks. When it came to the baseboards, I bought Sherwin Williams semigloss and got one coat coverage with almost no brush marks with the same pre-treatment and brush.

Not a fan of Behr paints. (Also had a bad experience with Behr deck treatment-I should have learned)
 
I was repainting a bedroom in our house. I cleaned the window trim and used a deglosser before painting with the Behr "one coat" semigloss. Used a Purdy top of the line brush.

The results were terrible. The paint wetted out poorly, did not cover in one coat, and was very bad for brush marks. When it came to the baseboards, I bought Sherwin Williams semigloss and got one coat coverage with almost no brush marks with the same pre-treatment and brush.

Not a fan of Behr paints. (Also had a bad experience with Behr deck treatment-I should have learned)

Behr I use for 'ceiling white' and lower wall wudda-been wainscoting areas as need frequent touch-up.

LR DR here were S-W's best applied 25 years ago, scrubbed 'with vigor', have been recoated but once and out of still-good dozen-year-old saved surplus.

Sadly, S-W's replacement for that 1991 latex line has not been as good. Mayhap they still have a commercial/industrial formulation that IS, but I can't be bothered hunting it down if it ain't on the shelf, locally.

Hence Valspar or even $$ Benjamin $$ Moore $$ now 'coz I am far lazier than I am frugal.

NB: Last decade or three's favorite paints have near-as-dammit ALL had to be re-formulated, and not by just a little bit to meet ever-tightening regulations. Gots to test today's choices. Prior experience is not very reliable.

Bill
 
whan comparing products, check how much titanium oxide they contain. big differences out there.
 
As far as the drywall sucking up paint until you can't see the joint tape- seal the drywall with a coat of PVA primer- that's what its for- and its much cheaper than regular wall paint. As far as the rest, our shop walls are off-white gloss latex from the ceiling to about 5' off the floor and then light grey gloss oil base enamel to the floor. The oil base allows you to wipe off splashes without damaging the paint. I'm not sure if the brand matters- and you may not be able to buy oil base at the local DIY box store but this has worked great for us for a long time.
 
Ace Hardware's top-of-the-line house-brand paint, now named "Clark and Kensington" has, in my experience, been very satisfactory in terms of both ease of use and durability. (For many years, Ace made their own paints, but a few years ago they sold their paint-manufacturing operations to Valspar.)
 
After lead oxide was banned from paints due to health issues, titanium dioxide replaced it as an opacifier. Some cheap paints use ground up silica (sand) or other cheap fillers. Look at the labels of brand name paints and select the ones with the most titanium dioxide. It will cover better. A sealing primer may reduce the amount of paint needed.

Jim
 
I have painted two shops and a garage with this stuff:

F&F Interior Gloss Oil Dairy Enamel, 1 Gallon

Two coats are utterly bulletproof after a single primer coat of Kilz, and nothing I did to it subsequently with coolants or common solvents would screw it up.
It's also so reflective that I was able to do away with a few lights.
 
I have painted two shops and a garage with this stuff:

F&F Interior Gloss Oil Dairy Enamel, 1 Gallon

Two coats are utterly bulletproof after a single primer coat of Kilz, and nothing I did to it subsequently with coolants or common solvents would screw it up.
It's also so reflective that I was able to do away with a few lights.

Sounds great, priced OK, too....but.. website sez 'pickup only' and has nuthin near here.

Wonder what the diffs really are between;

- Dikon Interior Gloss Oil Dairy Enamel (F&F, above)

- Van Sickle Dairy Enamel 160 gloss white (Tractor Supply allegedly carries the line at least)

No shortage of milk, so there must be others comparably good being used.

Bill
 
Just curious what others have done for a color, and how you liked it.

I painted a blue stripe 1 foot wide at shoulder height all around the shop. Above that is white, walls and ceiling. Below is medium gray, to hide dirt. 20+ years later I still get compliments on it, and I haven't gotten tired of it. The gray really hides the dirt but with the other colors it doesn't look dingy. I painted my personal shop the same except I painted the ceiling sky blue as an experiment - that makes the shop less light, but I'm used to it and like it. If I had to do it again, I'd go white ceiling.
 
All the walls in my house, and my office are Benjamin Moore acrylic Maritime White. I put on two coats plus primer. Been in the house 7 years, and office 5, has held up great. The interesting thing about the color is it takes on a different feel depending on the lighting and what is in the room. Most would not think it is the same color. It is a warm off-white with brownish tones. Anytime I have needed paint I go right to the Benjamin Moore Paint Store in town, explain my application, And I have yet to be let down. Any paint primarily sold only by a box store I would stay away from, it isn't worth your time to put it on the wall!
 
The durability of oil based paint is hard to beat. We have been using oil based floor paint for everything possible. It's getting very hard to get oil paint. The floor paint is about all we could find except anti-rust. Although I would put up steel or plastic panels on the walls if it was me. Lots of plastic options used by the dairy industry.
Gloss oil based implement enamel is available everywere and cheap.I was in a hurry and had a "professional" painter paint the inside of my workshop. I wanted gloss oil base white . He was agast so I let him talk me in to semi gloss latex.This is the last time I listen to anyone in the building trades. All they know is cheap and fsst.My walls are dingy and dirty ,except in the areas that I am gradually cleaning and repainting with HIGLOSS WHITE IMPLEMENT ENAMEL. EDWIN
 








 
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