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Painting a machined surface

deepaknatraj

Plastic
Joined
Dec 21, 2015
Hello,

I'm currently facing a problem and I would greatly appreciate any help.

I'm machining 1026 steel blank and after machining, i want to put a coat of primer (paint) on the entire surface.

The problem with that is paint adheres well to un-machined steel surface but not to a machined surface. How do i make it to stick to the machined surface as well?

Thanks
 
The easiest way is to sandblast to add some surface texture. This will help the paint stick. If you look at your primer's data sheet, it should talk about surface prep. They often have a sandblast option and a conversion coating option.
 
Etching primer will help, but it's still not designed for a perfectly flat surface.

Using a piece of steel wool will roughen up the surface for the primer to grab to.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
Hello,

I'm currently facing a problem and I would greatly appreciate any help.

I'm machining 1026 steel blank and after machining, i want to put a coat of primer (paint) on the entire surface.

The problem with that is paint adheres well to un-machined steel surface but not to a machined surface. How do i make it to stick to the machined surface as well?

Thanks

If it is FLAT? Quick and dirty is to run an ignorant vibratory sander over the lot of it. Needs less equipment than grit blasting, less time and elbow-grease than wool.

Then do a mild phosphatizing, Dry well, prime warmish, not cold.

Check your chosen paints. MANY appreciate a period of warmth to help them cross-link and bind.

Bill
 
You shouldn't need to rough up the surface at all. Paint makes a chemical bond, not a mechanical one.

If a rough surface weren't beneficial, I wouldn't see it in every paint process spec my customers have sent us. Even NASA, who probably knows more about their special paint coatings than anyone.
 
If a rough surface weren't beneficial, I wouldn't see it in every paint process spec my customers have sent us. Even NASA, who probably knows more about their special paint coatings than anyone.

Here is a Gecko on glass.

11615128-large.jpg


Luckily geckos can't read your paint specs. Electrochemical adhesion, like occurs with phosphate etched iron, works very well.
 
Here is a Gecko on glass.

[]http://media.cleveland.com/science_impact/photo/11615128-large.jpg[/img]

Luckily geckos can't read your paint specs. Electrochemical adhesion, like occurs with phosphate etched iron, works very well.

Awesome, great, just dandy. You go ahead and paint mirror smooth surfaces. The rest of the world will keep enjoying the benefits of painting textured surfaces.
 
"It probably goes without saying, but make sure to thoroughly degrease the metal before painting/priming."

And what you use to degrease matters. All acetones, ketones, and other organic solvents leave behind traces of hydrocarbon solvents from the heavier organics that are present in trace amounts. 99% isopropyl does not leave residues. Dan Gelbart did a nice video on paint surface prep. He shows that testing the surface cleanliness with water is a good test---if the water flows, smoothly the surface is clean. If it does not, the surface is oily and will not bind well. He advises use of bead blasting with clean media, cleansers like "Comet" household cleansers (yup) and heating the metal to 300 degree F. The man knows whereof he speaks.

Building Prototypes Dan Gelbart part 6 of 18 Coatings - YouTube


Interesting stuff. He explains the need for prompt coating (1 hour) after surface activation. He understands and explains this based on surface energy---not a term we hear often (not often enough) since this is the unifying theory of why some preps work and some don't. BTW, he clearly explains that texturing a surface increases energy and even things like Teflon can be coated if textured enough!

Denis

Dan has rarely contributed to PM in the past.
 
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from your first post, I immediately suspect cutting lube/coolant as the culprit. proper degreasing is an art. most leftover residue from any solvent cleaning, especially with the quick drying 'tones and of the "just wipe it down" veriaty, comes from what you were trying to remove being re-deposited as the solvent evaporates. as to them having "hydrocarbon solvents from heavier organics".. hmm.. not sure about that really being the problem. I do know isopropyl really doesn't "cut it" to get grease or dried/caked oil off a surface. just my 2C on that, no disrespect dg if your experience differs.

as to using steel wool as a paint prep, I can say that is a BAD IDEA. two reasons, it is coated with oil, and it is too soft to scratch all but the softest steel very much. new, clean scotchbrite hand pads are a good choice.
 
from your first post, I immediately suspect cutting lube/coolant as the culprit. proper degreasing is an art. most leftover residue from any solvent cleaning, especially with the quick drying 'tones and of the "just wipe it down" veriaty, comes from what you were trying to remove being re-deposited as the solvent evaporates. as to them having "hydrocarbon solvents from heavier organics".. hmm.. not sure about that really being the problem. I do know isopropyl really doesn't "cut it" to get grease or dried/caked oil off a surface.
An organic chemistry class can be an eye-opener just as to what we have in everyday home and shop use. Basically, hydrocarbon solvents live in tribes and clans that don't always work well together, nor readily dissolve deposits 'married' with their cousins. Plenty of sources of enlightenment - I'll spare you here.

Worse, nearly ALL are harmful, some very much so. Benzene, for example, for cutting hardened ink off printing equipment. Until it contributed to killing so many who handled it. Trichlor - for cleaning typewriters of ink - or washing uniforms for those who worked on Oxygen production plants. Until too many got brain cancer.

Best bet nowadays are commercially prepared 'answers'. Not as powerful as they once may have been. But someone is at least trying to meet ever-stricter safety regulations. Most of which are not at all unreasonable. Just inconvenient.

.. as to using steel wool as a paint prep, I can say that is a BAD IDEA. two reasons, it is coated with oil, and it is too soft to scratch all but the softest steel very much.
Also sheds tiny broken bits of itself like leaves off a Maple tree in late fall.
new, clean scotchbrite hand pads are a good choice.

"Acceptable compromise" might be a better description.

They ALSO shed. Both the abrasive bits embedded in their flexible carrier, and the plastic OF said carrier as well.

Anyone think a worn Scotchbrite pad has seen its components whisked cleanly away directly to Scotchbrite Heaven?

No such blessings.

They have to BE somewhere - more especially if used with solvents that attack their body matrix.

Bill
 
So why exactly does the O.P. want to apply paint onto said "machined surface" ?

For a temporary rust prevention during long term shipping/storage ?
 
So why exactly does the O.P. want to apply paint onto said "machined surface" ?

For a temporary rust prevention during long term shipping/storage ?

Dunno. But there sure seems to be a massive and viable biz model selling and applying paint - more and more of it attempted MIL-style camouflage.

Mayhap he has a mechanism as has to go hide in the weeds....

:)
 
If you need the accuracy if a machined surface, then painting it would
negate all of the accuracy ?

Why machine the surface in the first place, if your just going to slop paint on it ?
 








 
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