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Question about machining some soft copper

crossthread

Titanium
Joined
Aug 5, 2004
Location
Richmond,VA,USA
I have a job where the owner is using dead soft buss bars. The bars have a series of tapped holes about every inch. Material is .500 thick. I need to mill out the existing holes .125" and cut slots between the two holes for adjustment purposes, kind of like connecting the dots on alternating pairs of holes. When I am going down into the tapped holes with a center cutting end mill the copper seems to want to grab the end mill. My question is, has anyone ever tried dubbing an end mill?
 
Take some of the positive rake out of the cutter with a stone. She will go in smooth.

And for some reason, EDM oil seams to be a great cutting lube when working with copper.
 
this week I have been cutting a bunch of .925 silver, milling , drilling and taping. likes to stick same as copper, Habcool 318 cutting oil is the stuff to use it black it stinks but it works good
John
 
this week I have been cutting a bunch of .925 silver, milling , drilling and taping. likes to stick same as copper, Habcool 318 cutting oil is the stuff to use it black it stinks but it works good
John

The traditional cutting fluid used by jewelry makers on sterling (.925) silver is oil of wintergreen. Smells good, too. Sold in drugstores. I never tried it on copper.

Larry
 
Can you throw the part in the freezer? It will harden the copper a hair and help with grabbing and/or gumming. That's what you do when machining lead.
 
Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for the help. So I will dub the end mill a bit and try some lube. I have always machined brass and things like that dry but I will try some goose grease. Thanks again.
 
I have drilled and machined thousands of soft copper contact blocks and brazed on silver contacts. You DO NOT want to break the edge of the cutter. It needs to be as sharp as possible with a large rake. The problem is not cutting the metal, which is easy, but getting the chip to slide over the cutter. Large rake and clearance and a cutting oil with the best lubricating qualities. For a lot of them we use Mobilgear 636, which is a mildly sulfurized gear lube. Normally you do not want a cutting fluid with high film strength because it makes it harder for the tool to penetrate, but that is not a problem with copper.

We also fly cut silver surfaces. If the cutter edge is the least bit rounded, it will drag on the machined surface and ball it up. We grind the cutter on a wheel to make it concave, then finish it with a fine stone held against the edge and heel, in the same manner as sharpening a hollow ground razor.

Most buss bar is cold rolled so it is not dead soft. We drill, tap and mill slots with standard cutters. If you are getting good chip clearance and still have a grabbing problem, it is probably lack of rigidity in your setup.

Bill
 
Have to agree with Bill here. I'm a coppersmith and machine lots of copper #110, the sharper the better on the cutting tools. I also think a 135 degree split point drill cuts better than a 118 drill. I use HSS 4 flute CC endmills and roughers almost exclusively for copper...flood coolant for heavy extended cuts but otherwise machine dry or with a little tapmatic natural... It's my favorite for drilling, milling and tapping. Cooltool II works pretty good too...but the Tapmatic is the best imo.

Also if you're milling narrow slots, do yourself a favor and remove the majority of the slot out with a drill 1st if possible, then finish up with a 4 flute or rougher. In my experience that's what has worked best.
 
Drop a 3/8" cutter thru the hole and cut the web between two tapped holes with this size. You will not be able to cut full width with a 5/8" cutter anyway and this will prevent the tool from grabbing.
 
John, have you tried a high helix drill on copper? We haven't, just wondering.

Bill

I have, but not in a production setting, and not specifically for deep hole drilling, and I hear that's where they shine. I've read some good commentary that Guhring makes some excellent parabolic drills for non ferrous, and I've always wanted to test them out.
 
A straight flute cutter might work well without grabbing. They make some carbide router bits with 1/2" shank that would fit the bill for cheap. I haven't tried that yet though. I do know that TapMagic for Aluminum works well on most non ferrous materials including copper. Might give that a try.
 
Milk.
Sounds crazy but it worked for me in a very similar situation to yours. But make sure you clean up immediately after finishing work. Wait even one day and the milk on your machine, tools and job will go rancid. I got the recommendation around a year ago from an old thread on this site.
 
I have, but not in a production setting, and not specifically for deep hole drilling, and I hear that's where they shine. I've read some good commentary that Guhring makes some excellent parabolic drills for non ferrous, and I've always wanted to test them out.

Years ago, recurring job, 3/8 & 1/8 drilled over 3" deep. Tin coated HSS PTD parabolics with soluble mixed rich. Worked out pretty well.
 
A suggestion for future machine work. We use a Alloy 145 copper. It is a free machining grade. And have been using it for 5-6 years with great results. We regularly drill a 3/8 dia hole 8" and 12" deep in this material as well as other machine work. On new projects it is the only way to go where it is acceptable.
 








 
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