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Machining Hardcoat Anodize ??

capecod

Plastic
Joined
May 4, 2008
Location
Carver,Ma
I have 4 parts made from 7075 aluminum. One surface was supposed to be masked from hardcoat anodize. Didn't happen:angry:. Anyway the fix at this point is to flycut clean this surface. (dimension not critical- at all).
The only thing critical is all 4 have to be the same size.

What is the best way to do this. Light cuts, heavy cut etc.

My best guess tells me to put in "old" inserts and take @ .010 off. then change to fresh inserts and take a light finish cut.

What do the people that know and aren't guessing think?
 
If you keep the speed down it's nowhere near as nasty as many will hve you believe.

As you've only 4 to do, nothing critical or clever, for a fly cutter you can use HSS, run at steel speed to get rid of the anodise, then sharpen / hone cutter then run at ally speed.


FWIW
Steel 100'/min

Ally 300'/min.
 
just pretends it's not there and cut. sure it's hard, but very thin. get under it a bit and it be broken up by the advancing chip and you may not even notice too much wear.
 
All I can say is go 3 times deeper than the plating. Most plating is about .0015-.003 so take .01 off and you should be good at almost any speed. Hard anodizing is tough but the base metal is not (aluminum)
 
Wd 40

WD 40 , is the concubine that aluminum Loves.

.007 to peel the crust off, the .003 to finish at twice the RPM.
Spray into the fly-cutter as it travels so the back-side of the cut
gets some too.

In the 80's we had to give a 32 finish for heatsinks for SCR bricks.
( SCR's for all three phases in one brick ) was my understanding.

M1M
 
I didn't see carbide mentioned for cutting edges so here it is. HSS will poop out fairly quickly. Hard anodize in 0.002" or so of a single aluminum oxide crystal.
 
With hard-coated 7075 make sure you use TiCN coated inserts if at all possible. Uncoated carbide won't last much longer than HSS.
 








 
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