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  1. #1
    J.Ramsey is offline Cast Iron
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    Default Red Loctite Question

    Anybody know the temperature in degrees it takes to get 271 threadlocker to release.

    I looked at the Loctite site but it only states heat is required to disassemble.


    I have several Aluminum castings that need the Steel studs replaced and thought about heating in an oven instead of using the torch method.

  2. #2
    Kyle Smith's Avatar
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    "Here it is from the horses mouth. The Loctite corp..

    Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?

    A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.

    moe1942"

    This was found in this thread:

    http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...al-t73050.html

    I would have guessed 300F to 400F. I had to disassemble a number of parts after a screw up, most would break free just as the Loctite was melting. The remainder of the Loctite was a powder.

  3. #3
    knudsen's Avatar
    knudsen is offline Stainless
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    Default

    I wonder if acetone would work. Most of that stuff has similar properties to CA (super glue). Getting it to wick in all the way might be a problem though.

    I used a heat gun in the past, while tugging at the part.

  4. #4
    Ox's Avatar
    Ox
    Ox is offline Diamond
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    Default

    FWIW - I have never had 271 hold enything "perminently".

    Always been able to dissassemble cold. With much resistance! But cold none-the-less.


    ------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

  5. #5
    scadvice's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Piece of cake, two other things to consider while doing it

    First thought: Heating the casting to those temp. may have an annealing effect on the temper.
    Second thought: If the parts are alodine you will distroy the coating and have to strip and re-alodine be fore reinstalling the inserts.

    Last comment: I have used a big electric soldering gun to remove inserts. You have to only make a tip that will transfer the heat more locally and hold the insert. I was removing 5/16 threadcerts. Made the tip with the male thread long enough to use a thin style nut to lock it on. They came lose easy with the right heat and timing.
    Steve

  6. #6
    Ray Behner's Avatar
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    Default

    The biggest problem is getting it to hot. I use a tempil stick for 450 deg. and it usually works pretty good. Aluminum has a greater expansion rate than steel, so if it's not corroded it ought to work pretty good. I use MEK (plastic pipe cleaner) to dissolve the remaining stuff.

    Ray

  7. #7
    scadvice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Behner View Post
    The biggest problem is getting it to hot. I use a tempil stick for 450 deg. and it usually works pretty good. Aluminum has a greater expansion rate than steel, so if it's not corroded it ought to work pretty good. I use MEK (plastic pipe cleaner) to dissolve the remaining stuff.

    Ray
    If you do use MEK wear gloves...MEK is bad stuff if not used properly. Ray's right about the heat transfer. That's why I said a BIGGG soldering iron.
    Steve

  8. #8
    cuslog is offline Plastic
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    Default

    I'm with OX on this one.
    I routinely break the red loctite loose, cold.
    It's tough but it will break loose - wouldn't try it on any fragile little fasteners or parts though.

  9. #9
    donie is offline Diamond
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    Heat the stud up with a torch, propane is good enough.
    Then touch a bar of Bees Wax to the joint. The stud will come out, The Bees wax will penetrate the thread and kill the loctite.

  10. #10
    Racer Al's Avatar
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    Donnie, that's a good tip about the bees wax.

    FWIW, a common form of bees wax is a toilet seal ring.

  11. #11
    Screwmachine is offline Stainless
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    FWIW - I have never had 271 hold enything "perminently".

    Always been able to dissassemble cold. With much resistance! But cold none-the-less.


    ------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox
    Same here. The only Loctites I consider >>periminent<< are the monster green ones.

    Surpised you missed the opportunity for that one Ox!

  12. #12
    donie is offline Diamond
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    It really does work, Bees Wax has a higher flash point then any oil. It wipes out any grade of locktite instantly, and rips through corrosion.
    A Bees Wax candle can be found at most craft stores.

  13. #13
    Screwmachine is offline Stainless
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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    It really does work, Bees Wax has a higher flash point then any oil. It wipes out any grade of locktite instantly.
    A Bees Wax candle can be found at most craft stores.
    Cool tip Donie

  14. #14
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    Lightbulb Loctite Black Max

    Quote Originally Posted by Screwmachine View Post
    The only Loctites I consider >>periminent<< are the monster green ones.
    How about Loctite 380 "Black Max".

    It's listed as an "Instant Adhesive", not a thread locker, and is rated permanent.

    The description says "black toughened", whatever that means.

    - Leigh

  15. #15
    Ray Behner's Avatar
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    Beeswax huh? Never tried it, but I'm going to. It works good on a drill or tap as a lube so what the heck. As for cold removal: Ox ought to stop in some day and help me with a bad chrome rod on a good piston with 4" - 12 threads. It ain't fun even with the cheaters on the wrenches doing it hot!

    Ray

  16. #16
    donie is offline Diamond
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    Ray, I picked up the Bees Wax tip in a Hydraulic shop. I cut more tight fit 12tpi threads then probably any other since.
    Hydraulics was, I think my favorite, looking back.

  17. #17
    ObsoleteTom is offline Cast Iron
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    Quote Originally Posted by Screwmachine View Post
    Same here. The only Loctites I consider permanent are the monster green ones.

    Surpised you missed the opportunity for that one Ox!
    Yep. I agree with that completely. Also, I used the monster green on a spindle bearing that was just a close slip one time, so I'm going to remember the beeswax idea. Craft srore, huh?

  18. #18
    donie is offline Diamond
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    Anywhere candle making supplies are sold will have Bees Wax.

  19. #19
    Ray Behner's Avatar
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    Donie,

    Half of my business is hydraulics. Yes, 90% of the time they are 12tpi. The others are proprietary, goofy, screwed up inch dia, x metric tpi. I,m lucky enough to get the big ones. What a bear! A .I .Root Co. (world's largest bee keepers stuff) is right down the road, so maybe I'll buy a chunk the next time the wife goes there for those stinky candles.

    Ray

  20. #20
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    Most Indy and sports car teams I have been on use locktite by the quart. 271, 277, 609, about the only time we ever used heat to get things apart was in the gearbox. Pinion nuts, ring gear bolts etc. Most every bolt or nut on the car gets locktite. You would strip the car to the last nut & Bolt between races for inspection.

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