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Thread: Red Loctite Question
10-19-2009, 11:49 AM #1
Red Loctite Question
Anybody know the temperature in degrees it takes to get 271 threadlocker to release.
I looked at the Loctite site but it only states heat is required to disassemble.
I have several Aluminum castings that need the Steel studs replaced and thought about heating in an oven instead of using the torch method.
10-19-2009, 11:59 AM #2
"Here it is from the horses mouth. The Loctite corp..
Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?
A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.
This was found in this thread:
I would have guessed 300°F to 400°F. I had to disassemble a number of parts after a screw up, most would break free just as the Loctite was melting. The remainder of the Loctite was a powder.
10-19-2009, 12:02 PM #3
I wonder if acetone would work. Most of that stuff has similar properties to CA (super glue). Getting it to wick in all the way might be a problem though.
I used a heat gun in the past, while tugging at the part.
10-19-2009, 12:48 PM #4
FWIW - I have never had 271 hold enything "perminently".
Always been able to dissassemble cold. With much resistance! But cold none-the-less.
Think Snow Eh!
10-19-2009, 12:50 PM #5
Piece of cake, two other things to consider while doing it
First thought: Heating the casting to those temp. may have an annealing effect on the temper.
Second thought: If the parts are alodine you will distroy the coating and have to strip and re-alodine be fore reinstalling the inserts.
Last comment: I have used a big electric soldering gun to remove inserts. You have to only make a tip that will transfer the heat more locally and hold the insert. I was removing 5/16 threadcerts. Made the tip with the male thread long enough to use a thin style nut to lock it on. They came lose easy with the right heat and timing.
10-19-2009, 12:51 PM #6
The biggest problem is getting it to hot. I use a tempil stick for 450 deg. and it usually works pretty good. Aluminum has a greater expansion rate than steel, so if it's not corroded it ought to work pretty good. I use MEK (plastic pipe cleaner) to dissolve the remaining stuff.
10-19-2009, 12:55 PM #7
10-19-2009, 02:34 PM #8
I'm with OX on this one.
I routinely break the red loctite loose, cold.
It's tough but it will break loose - wouldn't try it on any fragile little fasteners or parts though.
10-19-2009, 02:40 PM #9
Heat the stud up with a torch, propane is good enough.
Then touch a bar of Bees Wax to the joint. The stud will come out, The Bees wax will penetrate the thread and kill the loctite.
10-19-2009, 02:53 PM #10
Donnie, that's a good tip about the bees wax.
FWIW, a common form of bees wax is a toilet seal ring.
10-19-2009, 03:00 PM #11
10-19-2009, 03:01 PM #12
It really does work, Bees Wax has a higher flash point then any oil. It wipes out any grade of locktite instantly, and rips through corrosion.
A Bees Wax candle can be found at most craft stores.
10-19-2009, 03:02 PM #13
10-19-2009, 03:27 PM #14
10-19-2009, 03:29 PM #15
Beeswax huh? Never tried it, but I'm going to. It works good on a drill or tap as a lube so what the heck. As for cold removal: Ox ought to stop in some day and help me with a bad chrome rod on a good piston with 4" - 12 threads. It ain't fun even with the cheaters on the wrenches doing it hot!
10-19-2009, 03:43 PM #16
Ray, I picked up the Bees Wax tip in a Hydraulic shop. I cut more tight fit 12tpi threads then probably any other since.
Hydraulics was, I think my favorite, looking back.
10-19-2009, 03:55 PM #17
10-19-2009, 04:05 PM #18
Anywhere candle making supplies are sold will have Bees Wax.
10-19-2009, 04:46 PM #19
Half of my business is hydraulics. Yes, 90% of the time they are 12tpi. The others are proprietary, goofy, screwed up inch dia, x metric tpi. I,m lucky enough to get the big ones. What a bear! A .I .Root Co. (world's largest bee keepers stuff) is right down the road, so maybe I'll buy a chunk the next time the wife goes there for those stinky candles.
10-19-2009, 08:00 PM #20
Most Indy and sports car teams I have been on use locktite by the quart. 271, 277, 609, about the only time we ever used heat to get things apart was in the gearbox. Pinion nuts, ring gear bolts etc. Most every bolt or nut on the car gets locktite. You would strip the car to the last nut & Bolt between races for inspection.