Bought an old Powermatic 87 bandsaw today. Weighs about 1200 lbs I've been told. Would like to build a small dolly for it so I can move it around if need be. Was going to just make a rectangle out of 1/8" 2"x2" angle iron and bolt some wheels to it. Think that would hold it or would I need to go 1/4"? Thanks.
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Would this support the bs?
- Thread starter hooligan
- Start date
- Replies 13
- Views 1,446
james robert
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2007
- Location
- Ft. smith Ar. U.S.A
hi hooligan 1200 lbs seems like a lot of weight for 1/8" angle iron. i think i would go with 1/4" at least. thanks
matt_isserstedt
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2003
- Location
- suburbs of Ann Arbor, MI, USA
Yes, keep in mind there are 2 flat "straps" where all of the weight rides...the bottom is not a flat (solid) plate.
Another vote for 1/4".
Another vote for 1/4".
Jim Caudill
Stainless
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2002
- Location
- Dayton, Oh
I have a rather heavy Grob bandsaw and bought the heaviest "machine base" sold by Grizzly. The problem is not so much the frame as it is the wheels and the attendant friction. Yes, I can move my bandsaw, but it takes herculean strength to push it around. Judging by your idea to use 1/8" angle iron, I'd say that you are approaching this task a little too simply. Asking for input is an excellent idea, but also take a look at how other machinery bases are constructed and what is the design weight limit. 1,200lbs is considerable, and I would select the wheels first, deciding which and how many should be swivels. That will help determine the mounting brackets that need to be incorporated in the design. I always thought it would be neat to have the wheels for my bandsaw mounted internally. Grizzly has an online catalog that you can start with. My local Woodcrafter's store also has similar bases, but nothing I know of for 1,200lbs of machinery.
Racer Al
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2006
- Location
- Oakland, California, USA
If you bolt up a piece of plywood inside the "floor" of the dolly, it will become MUCH stiffer.
matt_isserstedt
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2003
- Location
- suburbs of Ann Arbor, MI, USA
On second thought...the machine is actually more comfortable chomping thru 1/4" thick than 1/8" thick...at least as far as blade life is concerned.
Be very wary of getting the bandsaw up high...I'd strongly urge mounting the casters "side saddle" so that the actual ground clearance is around 1/2"...that is one tippy sucker.
Be very wary of getting the bandsaw up high...I'd strongly urge mounting the casters "side saddle" so that the actual ground clearance is around 1/2"...that is one tippy sucker.
Forrest Addy
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2000
- Location
- Bremerton WA USA
Yup. Find some suitable casters and work from there to design the frame. I suggest hard phenolic wheel casters from the caster supply house. The cheapos in the home center are seldom suitable for anything but smooth concrete and then at about half the advertized load capacity.
For a bandsaw - or any mobilized machine tool - you also need wheel and swivel locks on at least two of them.
So find some good casters first.
For a bandsaw - or any mobilized machine tool - you also need wheel and swivel locks on at least two of them.
So find some good casters first.
wippin' boy
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2005
- Location
- il.
when i am mobilizing small side tools
i look for a place to drill/bolt an axle into/onto one end
put 2 straight wheels on axle
that way there out side original foot print
then i make a 3rd swivel caster mounted out the front/other end
keeping with matts concept of just barley off floor
stablize it with a couple wooden wedges when in service
and forrest is right on about good casters
i look for a place to drill/bolt an axle into/onto one end
put 2 straight wheels on axle
that way there out side original foot print
then i make a 3rd swivel caster mounted out the front/other end
keeping with matts concept of just barley off floor
stablize it with a couple wooden wedges when in service
and forrest is right on about good casters
Toolbert
Stainless
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2003
- Location
- Vashon Island, WA
The CG on that saw is only little ways inboard of the operator side of the base. The table hangs way off the "front"...
If you put the saw on a mobile base, please do the following:
1. Make the mobile base much wider than the machine, so that where the casters touch the ground is several inches out from the machine base.
2. Bolt the saw to the base so it can't fall off the base if stops abruptly while rolling.
I've only had one machine moving accident, which consisted of ... my Powermatic 87 falling over. Crushed what it fell on, but no damage to the saw.
1200lbs on steel-wheel casters is easy to roll around a clean, level concrete floor. You don't want soft wheels.
If you put the saw on a mobile base, please do the following:
1. Make the mobile base much wider than the machine, so that where the casters touch the ground is several inches out from the machine base.
2. Bolt the saw to the base so it can't fall off the base if stops abruptly while rolling.
I've only had one machine moving accident, which consisted of ... my Powermatic 87 falling over. Crushed what it fell on, but no damage to the saw.
1200lbs on steel-wheel casters is easy to roll around a clean, level concrete floor. You don't want soft wheels.
matt_isserstedt
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2003
- Location
- suburbs of Ann Arbor, MI, USA
Toolbert, same deal. I tipped over my PM 87 as my only rigging accident to date. My problem was assuming that the base was a solid flat piece of steel (I did not open the lower door to check, just assumed....), and a roller slipped into the center cavity at a critical moment and the rest of the rollers did not help slow it down 
Thankfully it was in a high-sided trailer and it just bent the blade shear handle and bracket ever so slightly.
Bottom line is to underscore caution since it's a heavy enough piece of equipment to cause very serious damage.
Since then I've been shown a far safer and better way to move the saw, using a forklift fork, put it right next to the "column" about 1 inch from the top-back of the "throat". This area is strong enough to pick up the full weight of the saw without any permanent deformation and is a handy balance point too.
Thankfully it was in a high-sided trailer and it just bent the blade shear handle and bracket ever so slightly.
Bottom line is to underscore caution since it's a heavy enough piece of equipment to cause very serious damage.
Since then I've been shown a far safer and better way to move the saw, using a forklift fork, put it right next to the "column" about 1 inch from the top-back of the "throat". This area is strong enough to pick up the full weight of the saw without any permanent deformation and is a handy balance point too.
Tom Dittmer
Aluminum
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2006
- Location
- Keokuk, Iowa
I have a Powermatic 87 and have used it for over 30 years. I also wanted to be able to move it around in my shop. I made a pallet for the saw and bought a pallet jack. All of my nonprecision tools are on pallets. It has worked well for me. Later I bought a die lift truck and it also will move the tools. My 2 cents worth.
