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? how to I.D. steel plate

David J.

Cast Iron
Joined
Feb 28, 2011
Location
Michigan
I have a job in that the print calls for 5/8th hot roll 1020, the material
came in .720 thick. The plate is stamped with TC128-BLTVG on it.
Any way to tell what this is? It was flame cut before it got here
and is HARD in the areas that were heated....files won't touch it.
Thanks
David
 
This little line in David's link says it all for me:

commercial grade HSLA steel was produced and tested for mechanical properties. The A-8XX steel was found to be comparable to TC-128 in strength

HSLA steel isn't 1020, it high strength low alloy - and that is why it is hard on the flame cut edges.

If you want some low carbon soft steel plate, you can not go wrong with ATSM A516-70.

J.O.
 
ask the supplier for certs.
Actually testing what you have is going to be timeconsuming and pricey.
Its much easier to just make the supplier actually supply what you want.
 
Thanks Guys!
I searched with Bing.....usless POS.
I'm going to make a few phone calls, may have to go kill
someone later.....
David
 
Thanks Guys!
I searched with Bing.....usless POS.
I'm going to make a few phone calls, may have to go kill
someone later.....
David

Steel is steel, right!?

This would probably drive me crazier than anything else in the machine shop business. If I order AISI 1020 steel, that is what I expect to get. From the customer perspective, I expect the parts to be made to the print, and that includes the drawing notes and specific processing; that is my only means for controlling the quality of the part. If the drawing is goofy, make phone calls to get it sorted out; I have been guilty of signing off on a drawing for a titanium part that had a note to alodine.

I can get even more picky than that, and this may drive the shop owners nuts - if I write a margin of safety of zero on a part sized with properties for a particular thickness of stock, then that is what the stock needs to be, not what the supplier believes is "the same". Maybe I can accommodate a different material, and maybe not; make a few really cheap phone calls first. Salvages are not cheap, generally.

Also, make sure the certs match the stock. Don't send a hand forged billet with certs for plate stock. Don't send a piece of plate that has obviously been put under a fly cutter to reduce thickness of the original stock, either.
 
I don't accept material without MTR's. I have refused shipments more than once. That usually remedies the problem. Of course, that has to be specified on the Purchase Order, but it's enforceable.
 








 
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