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Modifying My Mr. Deburr tumblers

kustomizer

Diamond
Joined
Aug 17, 2007
Location
North Fork Idaho
This is kind of a long story, I have 6 of these that I have been using for 20+ years, the 3cf tub size and shape work well for the parts I do so after trying a few other machines I decided to modify these. The problem is that they need to be bolted to the floor to stay put and operate properly, this makes the building shake enough that it shows up in the finish on our VMC's. When I built my existing building I made a tumbler room with a slab of its own poured over bubble wrap and seperated from the rest of the building then insulated the crap out of it 9 ways to Sunday. This has worked well until now, I am moving and my tumblers will have to be in my garage for perhaps 6 months and I don't want to shake the house apart so I made a call sown to C&M Topline (the folks that made them ). I asked why my Burr Bench can roll around on casters yet stay where I put it and these need bolted down and shake the building. The guy I spoke to told me it was because the Burr Bench is sprung by the upper lip of the tub and theirs is sprung from the bottom of the tub. Last weekend I made a new stand that supports the tub from the upper lip atop of some Chevy valve springs, WOW what a dramatic change, is seta on the floor and doesn't move around, shake the building and it makes about 30% less noise. I will make covers for it and mount it on casters when I get some time. We have run several batches of parts through it it works the same as it ever did, I wish I had done this years ago.
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GREAT info ,, I have 3 or there tumblers and like them but the noise does drive one nuts ,, I built a box around mine to quiets them down ,, but the floor still moves
 
This modification stops the floor shaking and much of the noise, I plan to make covers and put Dynamat on the inside, so far we are impressed yet confused as to why the manufacturer would suggest I do this yet not do it themselves.
 
Does it take any longer with the new mod? Maybe they make it that way because it is faster to get parts done? Guessing on my part, but there must be a reason... Another thought is do the parts turn over any differently in one or the other?
 
Cycle time is the same, the parts seem to stay in the middle better as opposed to migrating to one side or the other, they still migrate but it takes longer. All in all it is just about the same.
 
It looks like you could just fab up a cradle to just lift the talk like 1/2" and move the stock springs up to the top? I got my first tumbler from C&M back in the mid 90`s and it still runs about everyday ,, 2 sets of bearings and a couple belts and its still going strong .
 
That could well be, I used Chevy valve springs as that is what the Burr Bench looked like and they seem fine but I am not sure how much the size of the spring matters as long as they support the tank from the upper lip as opposed to the bottom of the tank.
Like you say they are good machines, I have been running a whole herd of them every day since the late 90's, I just can't have them shake apart my new house while I wait for the shop to get finished.
 
Has anyone here found a solution to keep small parts from "sticking" to the flat ends of the tub? We make a lot of small aluminum parts and there are always a good amount of them sticking to the ends of the tub and not getting tumbled.

I was thinking of maybe making some plastic plates for the ends of the tub that have a relatively rough surface and keep parts from sticking to them.
 
What if you were to just bolt it to a heavy slab of steel? Something like a 4" thick plate? Would that be enough weight?
 
It's actually very interesting that such a big difference could come from what is not (seemingly) a big change in mounting. And yes, it is perplexing why the OEM - knowing the difference - would continue to make them shaky. And it's also perplexing why the marketplace hasn't driven them out of business over it.
 
The tumbling room we built had a 6" slab 10 x 20, with 6 tumblers running if you were to lay on the floor as soon as your head touched the floor you could no longer see the ceiling. You could feel it a bit with your feet some, perhaps the steel plate would help but the tubing and angle iron frame is cheaper and now it can be on casters like the burr bench. I would have switched to the burr bench except my small parts are hard to fish out of the deep tub. They are good machines if you don't mind them shaking the floor
 
Has anyone here found a solution to keep small parts from "sticking" to the flat ends of the tub? We make a lot of small aluminum parts and there are always a good amount of them sticking to the ends of the tub and not getting tumbled.

I was thinking of maybe making some plastic plates for the ends of the tub that have a relatively rough surface and keep parts from sticking to them.

I bought a bed mat at pep boys. It came long so I had to trim it down. The back side of it is covered in hemispherical bumps so I used it on my tumbler walls. No part sticking anymore.
 
"Has anyone here found a solution to keep small parts from "sticking" to the flat ends of the tub?"

A bear and a rabbit were pooping next to each other in the forest. The bear turned to the rabbit and asked, "Say, do you have a problem with shit sticking to your fur?"

"No" replied the rabbit.

The bear thought about that for a second, then wiped his ass with the rabbit.
 
We use round tub style vibradynes. They kind of look like a big bundt pan.

They all have an adjustable counterweight. We normally set them to the middle of the range and leave them.

You may try to look for an adjustment, unless you already have.

Just a thought.
 
I have the same model I bought at auction and it came with a spare tub. I think I should do up the second tub with top springs and then convert the first one after it's working.

Thanks for posting this.
 
I forgot to mention earlier that I also bought 5/8 round rubber belts to replace the Vbelt, I got them from motion industries and they were clear, I believe that the clrar teool the durometer of the rubber if you need more info on that I can get it. I need to run up to Idaho for a week or so and plan to make covers and put wheels on this one and build one more when I return.
 
What rpm do your mr deburr motors run at? I was wondering if a person could go with less rpm and more weight or vis versa to reduce vibrations?
 








 
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