Rust removal from ways

nearbeer · May 6, 2018

All,

I finally broke the Bridgeport down into its major components and have started working on getting the rust off of the ways.

I've attached two photos of the base; the first shows the overall rust picture that I am dealing with. The second shows a section that I've been working on with naval jelly and steel wool after using purple power to initially de-grease the ways.

The combination of steel wool and naval jelly seems to work okay on the ways that were surface ground. However, where the ways were scrapped by the factory, the rust is still embedded in the slight depression of the scraping. I've hit this particular area 4 times with naval jelly (waiting 15 mins after application) and my progress has stalled.

I am wondering...is it safe to use a steel wire cup brush in a drill to get to this stubborn rust? If not steel wire cup, does anyone know a source for a true brass wire cup? Most I have seen for sale are "brass coated" and I'm afraid to use them for fear of damaging the scraped ways.

In search of my next cold one,

NearBeer

reidry · May 6, 2018

Are you really dealing with a rust issue or is that dried way oil? Continued soaking in solvent like mineral spirits or even a stripping solvent like the citrus strip should soften the congealed oils.

If you can get all the oil removed, you can then dam up around any rust and flood with evaporust to gently remove the rust followed by a little steel wool to get anything stubborn.

What year is your bridgeport? Many of the later ones have chrome ways on the knee, if your knee was chromed it is unlikely it is rusted unless the chrome was damaged.

Ryan

nearbeer · May 6, 2018

Ryan,

Thanks for the info; I'll have to look at the serial on the head to determine the year.

I am dealing with both congealed way oil/grease but also rust on the ways.

I plan on working the same area with some brass bristle brushes and brass wire cup (if I can find one) after a few more soakings of naval jelly.

I have to figure out a way to dam up the ways on the base so I can flood them with evaporust once I exhaust the naval jelly route.

Thanks for your time,

Adam

reidry · May 6, 2018

Plastic a little caulk and some duct tape will work if you can clean the sides off good. Clay will work. Plumbers putty, a bit of bondo, heck even play doh might work.

Ryan

Rob F. · May 6, 2018

I use a lot of wire cup brushes and there are options for wire diameter. The ones I commonly use are a .020 wire and and I also get .014 wire size for more delicate parts. The .020 wires will scratch into hot dip galvanize but the .014 will just clean it. If you had a fine wire on your brush I would not worry about brass wires.

JRIowa · May 6, 2018

Is this the same mill that you had pictures of 3 years ago?

The serial number on the head doesn't tell you anything, the serial number of the machine is at the front of the knee. And, AFAIK, no column had chrome, only the top of the knee, top and bottom of saddle and the bottom of the table. If you don't want to "ruin" the ways, use Scotch-brite and a large tub of elbow grease.
JR

DDoug · May 6, 2018

A 55 gallon drum, a battery charger, some soda.....

What the heck, worth a try.

Mark Rand · May 6, 2018

Bridgeport machines were not scraped from the factory. That's flaking over the original ground finish.

You will probably need to learn how to scrape ways to restore the machne to a decent alignment and condition. If you've got a couple of grand to spare, look at Richard King's courses. Otherwise, look at the Internet.

It worked for me on my Beaver Milling machine. It's as good or better now than when it left the factory.

jpevner · May 6, 2018

The part that you worked on looks pretty good. Perhaps a brass brush wheel?? I can't recommend Scotch-Brite, as it is grit embedded in plastic.
If you can get the rest to look like that, I think some way oil, and you are good to go.

Jon P.

JRIowa · May 7, 2018

I had to go back and find the original post. It appears the mill had been setting outside for quite a whils.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...d-serial-indicate-about-my-bridgeport-324837/
JR

Glug · May 7, 2018

There are very coarse stainless steel scouring pads that work well for many rust and gunk removal projects. They are sold for cleaning pans, and are surprisingly soft and tend to not scratch. They are far more durable than steel wool, and they don't leave bits of soon to rust fine steel everywhere.

I get them 2 or 3 for a buck at Dollar Tree. Some are branded Brillo. People resell them on ebay at a huge markup for 'gun' cleaning. Always test them before use to verify they are sufficiently annealed (haven't seen that yet).

They have recently been stocking a new variation that looks crocheted. Not sure about those. The pads labeled copper are also in that style and are very hard and tend to stratch.

DMF_TomB · May 7, 2018

nearbeer said:
All,

I finally broke the Bridgeport down into its major components and have started working on getting the rust off of the ways.

I've attached two photos of the base; the first shows the overall rust picture that I am dealing with. The second shows a section that I've been working on with naval jelly and steel wool after using purple power to initially de-grease the ways.

View attachment 227866

View attachment 227867

The combination of steel wool and naval jelly seems to work okay on the ways that were surface ground. However, where the ways were scrapped by the factory, the rust is still embedded in the slight depression of the scraping. I've hit this particular area 4 times with naval jelly (waiting 15 mins after application) and my progress has stalled.

I am wondering...is it safe to use a steel wire cup brush in a drill to get to this stubborn rust? If not steel wire cup, does anyone know a source for a true brass wire cup? Most I have seen for sale are "brass coated" and I'm afraid to use them for fear of damaging the scraped ways.

In search of my next cold one,

NearBeer

.
i would not use a steel wire wheel. normally rust comes off with softer nylon abrasive pads and some mineral spirits. cause greenie or brown nylon abrasive scouring pads are soft they go into depressions and mineral spirits helps with dried oil and grease.
.
scrubbing bubbles tub and tile cleaner will clean dried grease but you need to clean off as it will cause rust if left on metal

rons · May 7, 2018

nearbeer said:
The combination of steel wool and naval jelly seems to work okay on the ways that were surface ground. However, where the ways were scrapped by the factory, the rust is still embedded in the slight depression of the scraping. I've hit this particular area 4 times with naval jelly (waiting 15 mins after application) and my progress has stalled.

I am wondering...is it safe to use a steel wire cup brush in a drill to get to this stubborn rust? If not steel wire cup, does anyone know a source for a true brass wire cup? Most I have seen for sale are "brass coated" and I'm afraid to use them for fear of damaging the scraped ways.

Bad:
Naval jelly is what I used when I started out. A big mess with questionable results.
Wire cups in a drill? Bad idea on a precision surface.

Good:
Must for Rust product for rust. Brush it on and wait a few minutes. Scrub with a toothbrush.
Edfred shower stall and tile cleaner. Brush it on and wait. Scrub with a toothbrush.

dalmatiangirl61 · May 7, 2018

I have yet to find a rust remover that you can apply, then wipe off to find spottlessly clean metal. Get a pack of new razor blades and a good holder (not the retracting kind) and scrape that rust off. If it starts to scratch the iron its time for a new blade. Once you've scraped the heavy rust off, go at it with steal wool or scotchbrite. When done, if you see any brown spots there is still rust there, repeat.

In my world, cleaning those ways would be a 2, maybe 3 hour job, life is too short to wait for those rust removers to work.

DMF_TomB · May 7, 2018

nylon abrasive pad 2 or 3" dia in right angle air grinder commonly used to remove heavy rust from large fixtures weighing a ton. it tends to leave solid metal alone and go into most crevices removing rust. they come coarse medium and fine.
.
you can buy bigger nylon abrasive pads like 5" dia i used on printing press equipment cleaning
.
i would avoid steel wire brush. straight wire more gentle. twisted knot wire brushes will leave heavy scratches

Miguels244 · May 7, 2018

This shit is a miracle.
https://www.rust911.com/

Scrub and rinse with some detergent to clear any oil.
Put this on in soaked rags.
I used a swamp cooler pump and baby pool with a hand shower head.
No real need to immerse the part, just keep reasonably fresh solution on the area.

nearbeer · May 7, 2018

JRIowa,

Yep; suburban dad duties got in the way of getting it from the in-laws house to my garage. That and not having a truck, trailer, hitch, ball...you get the idea!

Still searching,

NearBeer

metlcutr55 · May 8, 2018

i don't think you have any issues wore brushing or even using mild abrasive pads if you clean well after. try this experiment. take a piece of steel or iron, maybe 2" wide x 2" lg. measure it. wire brush it for 1 minute. flip and repeat. measure it again. ill bet not much difference. repeat the same thing with some medium scotchbrite pads. please report the results.

nearbeer · May 10, 2018

Quick update...

Went to big orange box store to get wire wheel for drill, copper scrubby thingys, 409 type degreaser, and brass brushes.

Let me say that the wire wheel is a huge mistake...bigly...I tried it on the ways of the base and by barely touching the wire wheel to the ways I could tell right away that it would scar the ways. I then tried to get some flaking paint off the backside of the base and not only did wheel eat through 3 layers of paint it started gouging out the metal! Holy schnikees!!!!

Needless to say I now have a small area that will need some bondo love when it comes time to paint it.

I resorted back to using naval jelly...slap some on the way, go play a round of Halo on the XBox, go out and wipe off naval jelly followed by copper scrubby thingys and some 0000 steel wool. It's working....okay...not as fast as I would like but I am making slow progress.

BTW...instructions on naval jelly bottles said let it stand for 15 minutes after application...a round of Halo online gaming is 15 minutes....as Bugs Bunny would say..."co-winky-dink, I think not!"

JRIowa · May 10, 2018

nearbeer said:
Let me say that the wire wheel is a huge mistake...

Several of us told you that!
JR

Rust removal from ways

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